If you have read my past posts, you might remember that I have a 2000 H1 that I did a SVO conversion on. I have been having issues with injector pumps breaking screws on the fuel solenoid. Luckily, I have only invested $140 in the repairs. My current IP is an EBAY special. So far so good. I believed that I was overpressurizing the IP somehow. After speaking with Sam at fullcircle fuels in Oberlin, OH, I may have figured it out. He told me that he was having overpresure problems on Duramax conversions he had done using the Goldenfuelsystems kit. The kit's instructions call to loop the return line back to itself bfore the IP. Sam thinks that maybe on deceleration, the fuel out of the IP has nowhere to go and that may cause the overpressurization. His solution was to plumb the return line to the supply side of the lift pump. I did this and I'm crossing my fingers.

The new issue I have is that I think I fried something in the stock fuel tank switching valve. While I was adding a pre-heater before the IP (on the veggie side), I dropped a wire across the terminals of a couple of relays. It acred and smoked but everything seemed to work fine except the fuel guage. At first, there was no reading of fuel level at all. Then only the rear (veggie) tank read. Then I started popping return lines off the injectors(and engine stalling). When I tried to blow air through te return line to the tank from the engine comp, I couldn't. I ran a temporary line back to the filler neck, and all was well.

Today, I removed the lines from the switching valve and could blow air through up until the valve, but not through it. I think the valve may be in between tanks causing this. I also noticed that my post lift pre IP pressure at idle is fine, but drops to a slight vacuum on acceleration. This was not the case before the arcing wire issue. The diesel side was always at a positive pressure before theIP.I had disconnected the Veggie side tank lines prior to the conversion since the kit uses the "triple bypass" line bundled with heater hose for thinning the oil. I think that maybe the valve is pulling a little air through the stock rear tank (veg) line on acceleration, but not enough to cause air in the fuel.

Long story short, does anyone have any good sources for replacement valves?

 

sounds like you need to go visit www.humvee.net and check out the webforum.... get ahold of skiman on that forum.... hes one of the few that have done the veggie conversion on his H1.... he may be able to help.....

 

i have a selector valve if you need on or they are the same as the ford trucks. the selector moves back and forth from the switch using two differant wires. the fuel sending out put is the same but the inputs are differant, the other thing is that the vehicle has to be running or you have to turn the key off and switch the fuel tamks and turn the key back on for the selector valve to switch. if you have the key on and push the switch from main to aux. it won't switch and could get stuck in between the two tank settings.