Loss power/traction loss what is going on?!
#1
Loss power/traction loss what is going on?!
I just bought a 2007 h3 and now I'm having problems. Seems like once a week my hummer will start flashing all the check this lights. It says loss traction/ power loss. When this happens I can floor it and it won't go any faster. It stays around 1500 rpms and won't shift or anything so I'm cruising at around 40 mph. Does anyone know what the problem is? First time hummer owner and this is very frustrating.
#4
Thank you! I had it towed to a gm dealership today. Hoping they can figure it out! First time owning a hummer and it's been terrible so far.
#5
Hummers are build to last, but like with every other vehicle, it depends on how you take care of it.
By the way, I read some minutes ago somewhere that power loss may be fuel pump, t case and oil-related, but not sure if that's your case
hope you get things sorted out soon! please update.
Last edited by Mkawas; 11-18-2015 at 08:02 PM.
#6
Hummers are great vehicles, very reliable. Probably the past owner didn't took care of it and it became worst with time, or sold it without fixing the issue, plus, it's not a new car... It will start to wear out it's components. Change them before it does severe damage, the vehicle itself will tell you whenever you need new parts. Some components need to be changed frequently, others can last years and years. I own a 06 H3, 85k mi, which I plan to keep like a classic suv, and no issues so far, other than normal wear and a bad CD player. No drivetrain or engine issues so far, it seems they have still many many miles to go.
Hummers are build to last, but like with every other vehicle, it depends on how you take care of it.
By the way, I read some minutes ago somewhere that power loss may be fuel pump, t case and oil-related, but not sure if that's your case
hope you get things sorted out soon! please update.
Hummers are build to last, but like with every other vehicle, it depends on how you take care of it.
By the way, I read some minutes ago somewhere that power loss may be fuel pump, t case and oil-related, but not sure if that's your case
hope you get things sorted out soon! please update.
#7
A dealer would be the last place I would send my truck to, because they want to SELL you repairs/maintenance, regardless if you need it.
The ONLY thing they diagnosed related to the DIC message you are talking about is the PPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor). It is a simple plug and play assembly, takes less that 10 minutes to change it, costs about $42 for the ACDelco part.
TPI to me means Tuned Port Injection, are you sure they did not say TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)?
H3s are fly by wire, no throttle cable. You move the Accelerator Pedal, the computer (PCM) senses that move and new position, and then moves the Throttle to the corresponding position.
One reason your vehicle goes into reduced power mode -the default safety setting- happens when the PPS and TPS are no longer in sync. When either sensor goes bad the PCM cannot confirm where the throttle is supposed to be, so it triggers reduced power or limp mode. The vehicle still moves, but only at a low speed. Nobody wants to be going 80MPH with the brakes on and not pressing the pedal.
So it can be a bad PPS, or a bad TPS, or both. The TPS is built into the Throttle Body and is not separately replaceable. Since the PPS is cheap, start there. If that doesn't fix it, then spend the $210 for a new TB.
#8
MOVED to the H3 section, where......... questions about H3s go.
A dealer would be the last place I would send my truck to, because they want to SELL you repairs/maintenance, regardless if you need it.
The ONLY thing they diagnosed related to the DIC message you are talking about is the PPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor). It is a simple plug and play assembly, takes less that 10 minutes to change it, costs about $42 for the ACDelco part.
TPI to me means Tuned Port Injection, are you sure they did not say TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)?
H3s are fly by wire, no throttle cable. You move the Accelerator Pedal, the computer (PCM) senses that move and new position, and then moves the Throttle to the corresponding position.
One reason your vehicle goes into reduced power mode -the default safety setting- happens when the PPS and TPS are no longer in sync. When either sensor goes bad the PCM cannot confirm where the throttle is supposed to be, so it triggers reduced power or limp mode. The vehicle still moves, but only at a low speed. Nobody wants to be going 80MPH with the brakes on and not pressing the pedal.
So it can be a bad PPS, or a bad TPS, or both. The TPS is built into the Throttle Body and is not separately replaceable. Since the PPS is cheap, start there. If that doesn't fix it, then spend the $210 for a new TB.
A dealer would be the last place I would send my truck to, because they want to SELL you repairs/maintenance, regardless if you need it.
The ONLY thing they diagnosed related to the DIC message you are talking about is the PPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor). It is a simple plug and play assembly, takes less that 10 minutes to change it, costs about $42 for the ACDelco part.
TPI to me means Tuned Port Injection, are you sure they did not say TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)?
H3s are fly by wire, no throttle cable. You move the Accelerator Pedal, the computer (PCM) senses that move and new position, and then moves the Throttle to the corresponding position.
One reason your vehicle goes into reduced power mode -the default safety setting- happens when the PPS and TPS are no longer in sync. When either sensor goes bad the PCM cannot confirm where the throttle is supposed to be, so it triggers reduced power or limp mode. The vehicle still moves, but only at a low speed. Nobody wants to be going 80MPH with the brakes on and not pressing the pedal.
So it can be a bad PPS, or a bad TPS, or both. The TPS is built into the Throttle Body and is not separately replaceable. Since the PPS is cheap, start there. If that doesn't fix it, then spend the $210 for a new TB.
#10
So we replaced the throttle body and pedal sensor. That fixed my problem for a week. Now my ABS light is on along with my traction failed light. Drives fine but I'm so over spending money on this thing and don't know what is going on now.