Doc Olds -

Thanks for moving my initial thread -- I was a bit slow to discover the H3 specific section of the Forum, but as you can see from above I did eventually figure it out.

And thanks for extra info on the stabilitrack system. I am picking the car up from the dealer this afternoon (no repairs being done at this point) and hope they will provide some detail on the codes, and whether or not they did a leak down test (which I doubt). I will get the car home and start to dig in tomorrow following up on suggestions that have been made.

Again thanks for your help,

Bob

 

Google and Youtube will also help you with this.

I have an induction cleaner kit made by penray.
I only use seafoam in my induction cleaner unit.



I also use lucas in my tank (I buy it by the gallon, a lot cheaper than those tiny bottles, per ounce)



And CRC cleaners on the throttle body and maf sensor




Here are some videos to start you with:

 

Thanks for all the help so far guys -

I picked up the car from the dealer yesterday -- no help from them regarding codes or other info since supposedly the right people were not available. At any rate, the dash still showed the check engine and stabil warning symbols.

Got the car home and cleaned the MAF and TB; added injector cleaner; topped up with premium non-ethanol gas; drove the car, and periodically gave it full throttle.

Got home and checked codes -- no codes showing; hit erase and the check engine warning light went out; drove some more and it did not come back on.

So -- I am back to where I started. The transfer case lights are not lit on the middle of the dash and the buttons do not work -- and the stabil warning light is "on" on the dash. My original problem has been that the lights/buttons would work intermittently -- now they just don't work.

Is there a transfer case module of some sort that may have gone out that controls the lights/buttons and the ability to shift the transfer case?

More thanks in advance for additional help.

Bob

 

Easy stuff first.

Pull the center dash radio cover, check the wiring to the T Case buttons. The buttons can go bad, the connectors cane come loose, wiring can fray.....

 

Bob,
You seriously need to get the codes. There are cheap code readers on ebay that will access all your modules. Or go to a parts store or auto repair and have them retrieve your codes for FREE!

Without a code, I can, and others can, only guess?

Did you check your fuses?

Do you have brake lights?

Does your cruise control work?

Get the damn code and it will make life a lot easier!!!!!!!!

In the meantime I pulled up on my IDfix and found this for you, however you should NOT follow it until you get those codes!

 

Thanks Hummerz -

I guess I didn't communicate clearly -- I do have code reader and after I got back from the dealer I hooked it up and did not get any trouble codes -- this leads me to believe that I may have either a failed electrical connection as Doc Olds suggests, or perhaps a failed controller module of some kind.

Bob

 

Hummerz -

Follow-up to my previous post - I guess what mystifies me at this point is why I did not get a trouble code on my reader that might tie to the stabil warning light on the dash. I will drive the car some more tomorrow and take another reading to see if any codes show up. And in the meantime I will also check out more electrical connections to see if I can find any corrosion, or loose or broken connections that might be related to the transfer case shifting circuits.

Bob

 

I figured that out, when you stated that you did not receive a code, however you were able to clear the code.
You need a new scanner/code reader

You can get a scanner cheap on ebay that will access all your modules to retrieve codes, then you are able to access more than just the engine codes.

Engine, ABS, and Trans are the important things to look for, in a scanner. They also have SRS, data, etc...

I just checked on ebay, and I see, Launch crp123 is selling for under a $hundred$..

 

I think this may be simpler than it looks. Couple questions to redcar first.... since it has now sank into my thick skull...

Do you have a sunroof?

When did the TC control button lights stop in relation to this problem starting?

I ask because the Stabilitrak control in an H3 is in part run through the TCCM (Transfer Case Shift Control Module or TCSCM) and there was an old GM published PI about 2006 H3s that basically said when there are no lights for the TC control buttons, the TCCM may have failed. May not throw any codes.
They suggested techs try cycling the 4wd buttons fifty times, may help to clean the contacts in the encoder motor. One cycle is going from 4 wheel standard to 4 wheel lock hi, to lock low, and then the locking axle if there is one. There was a special way to do it, and ain't no way I'm gonna remember and don't have time to look it up, but it was something like with the key "On" engine off, in neutral, do the repeated cycle of the TC buttons, then place the vehicle in park, turn off the key, then start it...?

Whatever, that was crazy, but sometimes it worked by helping to clean the contacts of the encoder motor/TC buttons, and the DIC message would stay off. Bottom line, check the connections to the TC buttons, unsnap and reconnect the wire connectors, look for bad wires, see if any buttons feel stuck, etc...

If, and I say IF, it is a bad TCCM, cost is about $240, easy DIY swap, you just have to be careful to order the correct TCCM, they are different depending upon which TC Case you have. If it is a bad set of buttons, cost is $40-60.

 

Doc Olds -

Yes, I have a sunroof. When TC control button lights go dark, I get the stabil warning signal.

I understand (sort of) the button cycling process, and it seems "non-invasive". Back to your suggestion to get at the connections at the back of the buttons -- I have OEM navigation with a fancy chrome (not sure if metal or plastic) surround -- how do I pry off the surround to get at the buttons? I am a little worried that I might wreck the fancy surround!

Bob