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H2 Transmission rebuild!!

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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #1  
Nate2106's Avatar
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From: Rhode Island
Arrow H2 Transmission rebuild!!

Alright guys I've been waiting a bit to post this up, but I think its about time. In September my tranny blew and (because I'm a college student) waited till November to put some money into it. Well I figured I would love to take on the task of rebuilding it myself, so I did. After some good research I went with a Monster-in-a-box rebuild kit from Monster transmission. Then I came across this web site (Transmission Bench). The guy literally leads you through the whole rebuild. So if anyone was thinking of rebuilding theirs themselves give it a shot!! The rebuild kit was (approximately) $600, I also got a new Reverse input drum $65, Oils and a new torque wrench $150, and a new 1650 stall torque converter $280. In total $1095. Much better then the $3K the transmission shop wanted. It went pretty smooth I'm only having a few small issues now and hopefully it will be all set and back to 100%. Here are some pics.

Just barely fit in the Garage.
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All taken apart:
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Empty Transmission case:
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3-4 Clutch assembly:
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New upgraded "beast" Sun shell
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Planetary gear
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Not really sure what this thing is called but it's beefier:
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Water pump rebuild:
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1,2,3,4 full clutch assembly and water pump:
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Pump back in:
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Old Dec 21, 2014 | 08:48 PM
  #2  
Nate2106's Avatar
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1-2 Accumulator spring heavy duty
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Valve body rebuild:
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Checkballs:
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ALL DONE!!!
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New Torque converter:
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Everything works great. Each gear shift is firm and does not slip at all. The temperature is great as well, even when hammering on it on the highway for over an hour.



Things I learned:

1. I can fit under my H2 sitting upright.

2. Replace your 1-2 accumulator plastic piston for a metal one, it will break.
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3. DO NOT get a 1650 stall torque converter. Nothing higher then stock (unless you have a rebuild engine with more HP) If you do, you will waste more gas.




Heres the problems I still have and cant figure out hopefully someone can help.

- When starting from a complete stop I begin to accelerate. As I give gas the vehicle only starts to move at 1200 RPM's. (this is because of the high stall on the torque converter) When im at 1700 RPM's thats when I really am moving. The problem is that after that, my truck won't shift unless I let off the gas. I can travel up to 6000 RPMs and it won't shift. Once I do let go of the peddle it shifts nice and firm. There is no slipping in any gear so I'm very confused. I also have all brand new Electronics (See list below)

New Electronics:
1-2 Shift Solenoid
▪ 2-3 Shift Solenoid
▪ Manifold Switch
▪ EPC Motor
▪ 3-2 Solenoid
▪ PWM Solenoid
▪ TCC Solenoid with Harness

Any help would be greatly useful!!! Thanks guys Hope this post helps one else out.
 
Old Dec 24, 2014 | 09:43 AM
  #3  
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From: Viera, FL
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Check your TPS although it could also be a line pressure problem.

Try to manually shift it while under full throttle. If it shifts, you know its a sensor issue, if not its a pressure issue which means you goofed inside somewhere.

If the converter i snot staying locked up, then you probably have a bad valve in the valve body or maybe missed something during the rebuild.

Good luck

Tim
 
Old Dec 24, 2014 | 11:39 AM
  #4  
Nate2106's Avatar
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I thought it was the TPS also so I had a local transmission guy plug it in. The TPS gave a steady signal all the way through. So it's fine. When manually shifting through the gears I noticed that I have no secound. It's almost like neutral. Then it catches again in third. :/ I'm hoping it's a servo problum.
 
Old Dec 25, 2014 | 09:03 AM
  #5  
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From: Viera, FL
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Sounds like a pressure issue then, meaning you missed something inside, probably the valve body. No second and the converter not staying locked.

Did you use any grease inside to hold ball bearings in place? If so it could be a blocked passage. If not, I'd drop the pan and pull the valve body and go through it again.

Tim
 
Old Dec 25, 2014 | 09:50 AM
  #6  
Nate2106's Avatar
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Originally Posted by tharber
Sounds like a pressure issue then, meaning you missed something inside, probably the valve body. No second and the converter not staying locked.

Did you use any grease inside to hold ball bearings in place? If so it could be a blocked passage. If not, I'd drop the pan and pull the valve body and go through it again.

Tim

Yes I did use trans gel to hold my bearings in place. I'll have to take it down and go through it. Thanks. I'll check in again when the problem is fixed.
 
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