I was told today, that as long as I line everything up the same way as it comes out, I can get away without the scan tool. Then if I want to, I can get it re timed, but it should run fine. Does this sound right? Also, if the pump turns freely when out of the truck, it should be ok to replace the seal without having to drop $1200 on a new pump(crossed fingers).

Also, Mike, if it's ok I'd like to give you another call.

Thanks

Doug

 

Maybe but that almost sounds too good to be true.

 

yes you could mark the injection pump before you remove it and reinstall a new one in its place but because it is electronic timing you will still need to time it. the way it works with the scan tool is the tech2 shuts off the computer from trying to adjust the timing at a idle so that you can set your base timing from 4.5 to 5.0 degrees. if you do not do this the timing will be off and cause the check engine light to come on, runability issues, possible no start and so on.
and yes please feel free to call me anytime,
mike s.

 

I knew it sounded too easy. Most things just aren't that close to plug and play.

 

Just an update.

I took the IP out and brought it to a local re-builder. They told me that once, the fuel solenoid is removed, the pump needs a complete rebuild. So I traded it for a fresh one. It has all new electronics and all the latest updates to the internals, I am going to try and re-install it in the next couple of days. I'll keep everyone informed.


BTW

The original problem was that one of the long thin bolts on the fuel solenoid (not Shutoff) had sheared (possibly from my overpressurizing it with my veggie pump (14 psi). There was no way to fix the solenoid without removing it, so I was stuck with a $1083 bill. Otherwise all the seals looked fine, and the pump turned freely. Oh well, that's life.

 

Learned something today that will save money tomorrow. Good luck and let us know how it works out.

 

I've been working on the IP for an hour or so at a time for a few days. So far new pump is in place, but mounting bolt on bottom driver side is giving me fits (might be cross threaded right now). I have to mess with 3-4 different extensions and swivels to get a 1/8 turn. I already re attached the fuel lines. I might have to take a couple of them off to get to it[:@]. I'll keep all informed.

 

Thanks

 

I actually have a tool for that.... basically its the boxed end of a wrench welded to a curved piece of metal rod... allows to get around the bottom of the injection pumpfairly easily.... you get about 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn each time....

 

Phazer, did you make that yourself or buy it?