Fuel door replacement
I know, there have been several threads on the fuel doors (removal/installation), but since mine was different than all of those, I thought I'd post a new thread. My Alpha had a black aftermarket fuel door. It was a bit "busy", and the finish was not the best. I got a new chrome billet unit (aftermarket) for Xmas, so it was time to make the swap.
Now, every thread about the fuel door kept saying that they are held on with simple clips, and to just "pull hard" to remove. I didn't believe it with mine; I could actually see parts of threaded studs if I looked into the opening and between the fuel door frame and the fender; just "pulling hard" would've resulted in a broken fender. I figured that I would need to remove the fender in order to verify exactly how it was installed and remove it. But it's cold outside, and of course cold means brittle; I really didn't want to break any of the clips holding the fender on.
But after taking a closer look, I realized that I didn't need to remove the fender after all. Simply removing the inner fender liner (5 clips and 5 10mm bolts) exposed the entire inside of the fender. Success!
Here's what my original fuel door looked like:

Her's the inside of the fender after the removal of the liner. You can see 2 of the nuts/studs holding the fuel door on. They were bolted through the fender and the fuel cup:

Here's the backside of the removed fuel door. It is set up to use up to 5 studs, although only 4 were used:

And finally, here's the new unit installed:

New fuel door, no broken clips, no broken fender...Happy Camper!
Now, every thread about the fuel door kept saying that they are held on with simple clips, and to just "pull hard" to remove. I didn't believe it with mine; I could actually see parts of threaded studs if I looked into the opening and between the fuel door frame and the fender; just "pulling hard" would've resulted in a broken fender. I figured that I would need to remove the fender in order to verify exactly how it was installed and remove it. But it's cold outside, and of course cold means brittle; I really didn't want to break any of the clips holding the fender on.
But after taking a closer look, I realized that I didn't need to remove the fender after all. Simply removing the inner fender liner (5 clips and 5 10mm bolts) exposed the entire inside of the fender. Success!
Here's what my original fuel door looked like:

Her's the inside of the fender after the removal of the liner. You can see 2 of the nuts/studs holding the fuel door on. They were bolted through the fender and the fuel cup:

Here's the backside of the removed fuel door. It is set up to use up to 5 studs, although only 4 were used:

And finally, here's the new unit installed:

New fuel door, no broken clips, no broken fender...Happy Camper!
Last edited by 650Hawk; Dec 27, 2015 at 11:56 AM.
I know, there have been several threads on the fuel doors (removal/installation), but since mine was different than all of those, I thought I'd post a new thread. My Alpha had a black aftermarket fuel door. It was a bit "busy", and the finish was not the best. I got a new chrome billet unit (aftermarket) for Xmas, so it was time to make the swap.
Now, every thread about the fuel door kept saying that they are held on with simple clips, and to just "pull hard" to remove. I didn't believe it with mine; I could actually see parts of threaded studs if I looked into the opening and between the fuel door frame and the fender; just "pulling hard" would've resulted in a broken fender. I figured that I would need to remove the fender in order to verify exactly how it was installed and remove it. But it's cold outside, and of course cold means brittle; I really didn't want to break any of the clips holding the fender on.

Now, every thread about the fuel door kept saying that they are held on with simple clips, and to just "pull hard" to remove. I didn't believe it with mine; I could actually see parts of threaded studs if I looked into the opening and between the fuel door frame and the fender; just "pulling hard" would've resulted in a broken fender. I figured that I would need to remove the fender in order to verify exactly how it was installed and remove it. But it's cold outside, and of course cold means brittle; I really didn't want to break any of the clips holding the fender on.

Point taken. However, one thing missing from every single one of those posts, even when asked, was the fact that removing the fender liner (very easy) exposes the backside of the fender. That makes it easy to see exactly how the door is attached, whether OEM or aftermarket.
Point taken. However, one thing missing from every single one of those posts, even when asked, was the fact that removing the fender liner (very easy) exposes the backside of the fender. That makes it easy to see exactly how the door is attached, whether OEM or aftermarket.
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