Found out why front axel leaked... CAUTION W/ TORSIN BARS (long post but worth it)
Well, you aren' the only one....
When my truck was fixed last week, they said they found a leaking axle seal, and my torsion bars are set so my H3 is completely level. I guess maybe that's why. I guess I'll be putting them down just a bit.
When my truck was fixed last week, they said they found a leaking axle seal, and my torsion bars are set so my H3 is completely level. I guess maybe that's why. I guess I'll be putting them down just a bit.
ORIGINAL: shortbus
and nothing broke - both t-rods cranked. the shocks keep the front wheels from dropping farther than they should, so i personally don't see a use for shock extensions.
and nothing broke - both t-rods cranked. the shocks keep the front wheels from dropping farther than they should, so i personally don't see a use for shock extensions.
the fabtech pitman and idler arms were recalled and replaced with moog, which are the stock ones. they were more brittle than stock and were starting to crack, although mine didn't show any problems. now all i've got are the tierod ends and stabilizer shock - and my 6th pitman, 3rd idler and 2nd steering box. something about using it the way it was intended that seems to wear them out . . . . .
ORIGINAL: Doc Olds
stlH3: Yes I know you were relaying the dealer line.
You have confirmed for me my suspicion, when your fron tires left the ground the way you described you may have over extended your front shocks and gave the front axles a snap flex??? Might a happened regardless? Get front extensions or longer travel shocks. I would also agree that the T bars can be over adjusted, but I do not know your specific details.
Qyestion: Did the dealer lower your T bar setting after the repair?
Golden Shellback: Silver Lake Sand Dunes, looks familiar????
stlH3: Yes I know you were relaying the dealer line.
You have confirmed for me my suspicion, when your fron tires left the ground the way you described you may have over extended your front shocks and gave the front axles a snap flex??? Might a happened regardless? Get front extensions or longer travel shocks. I would also agree that the T bars can be over adjusted, but I do not know your specific details. Qyestion: Did the dealer lower your T bar setting after the repair?
Golden Shellback: Silver Lake Sand Dunes, looks familiar????
The dealer didn't lower the t-bars. I only cranked them 2.5 turns. Just enoughto take the huge slope in the front out. Plus they didn't what to have to re-aline it either.
I would think shock extenders would worsen the longer travel and make it more prone to the axel over extending. Why make the travel longer when that is what probably did it in the first place?
The jump pic is a close comparison to what I did, only on a smaller scale.
HummerGuy I would assume we have the same problem. The dealer tightened the ring? more than it normally is to keep the axel in place and to make it harder to slip out. Did they say anything else to you?
Well, first off, 2.5turns isn't alot, so I doubt that would be a big deal, but I'm no mechanic.
They didn't say anything about the adjustments. I was very maticulous in adjusting the front and rear end. The front end is only literally 1/2 to 3/4 lower then the rear. Something I did NOT factor in, however, is the torque of the engine raising the front end upon acceleration. Once they told me about the leaking seal, or that it came off, I thought about that.
I'm probably going to lower the front end just a bit, but I had a full alignment done with the front end raised to it's current level, so it's possible the camber might be off a bit if I lower it a little.
PLUS, there is talk now that the torsion bars can literally wear out under stress. My truck started to list to one side over the period of 6 months, where I had to re-adjust the torsion bars to get it level. I was thinking about replacing the torsion bars but not sure it's necessary.
I'll probably take each end downat least 1/2 turn to 1 turn to relieve some of the stress.
They didn't say anything about the adjustments. I was very maticulous in adjusting the front and rear end. The front end is only literally 1/2 to 3/4 lower then the rear. Something I did NOT factor in, however, is the torque of the engine raising the front end upon acceleration. Once they told me about the leaking seal, or that it came off, I thought about that.
I'm probably going to lower the front end just a bit, but I had a full alignment done with the front end raised to it's current level, so it's possible the camber might be off a bit if I lower it a little.
PLUS, there is talk now that the torsion bars can literally wear out under stress. My truck started to list to one side over the period of 6 months, where I had to re-adjust the torsion bars to get it level. I was thinking about replacing the torsion bars but not sure it's necessary.
I'll probably take each end downat least 1/2 turn to 1 turn to relieve some of the stress.
ORIGINAL: HummerGuy
Well, first off, 2.5turns isn't alot, so I doubt that would be a big deal, but I'm no mechanic.
They didn't say anything about the adjustments. I was very maticulous in adjusting the front and rear end. The front end is only literally 1/2 to 3/4 lower then the rear. Something I did NOT factor in, however, is the torque of the engine raising the front end upon acceleration. Once they told me about the leaking seal, or that it came off, I thought about that.
I'm probably going to lower the front end just a bit, but I had a full alignment done with the front end raised to it's current level, so it's possible the camber might be off a bit if I lower it a little.
PLUS, there is talk now that the torsion bars can literally wear out under stress. My truck started to list to one side over the period of 6 months, where I had to re-adjust the torsion bars to get it level. I was thinking about replacing the torsion bars but not sure it's necessary.
I'll probably take each end downat least 1/2 turn to 1 turn to relieve some of the stress.
Well, first off, 2.5turns isn't alot, so I doubt that would be a big deal, but I'm no mechanic.
They didn't say anything about the adjustments. I was very maticulous in adjusting the front and rear end. The front end is only literally 1/2 to 3/4 lower then the rear. Something I did NOT factor in, however, is the torque of the engine raising the front end upon acceleration. Once they told me about the leaking seal, or that it came off, I thought about that.
I'm probably going to lower the front end just a bit, but I had a full alignment done with the front end raised to it's current level, so it's possible the camber might be off a bit if I lower it a little.
PLUS, there is talk now that the torsion bars can literally wear out under stress. My truck started to list to one side over the period of 6 months, where I had to re-adjust the torsion bars to get it level. I was thinking about replacing the torsion bars but not sure it's necessary.
I'll probably take each end downat least 1/2 turn to 1 turn to relieve some of the stress.
The dealer didn't really think that 2.5 turns was very much either, but through searching I found out that this is really the minimum amount of turns to take the awful slope out and fit 35's.
You still may have to do an alignment when lowering. I'd just keep an eye on it to make sure. Don't want any unnecessary tire wear at the cost of 35's...
Yeah no kidding. I was going to get some 35s myself this spring, but I'm debating it. The mileage I'm getting now and traction with the 32s is nice, and having a 5-speed is an advantage too. I don't want to put too much extra weight on the wheels. I'm getting 18 to 22 MPG right now, and average about 375 miles before the gas light comes on, so putting that weight on it might bring it down alot. I'm not sure though.
I still think I'm going to give it at least 1/2 turn back down again. I doubt that will do much for the alignment.
I still think I'm going to give it at least 1/2 turn back down again. I doubt that will do much for the alignment.
stlH3: I like the Avatar! Great lookin little man by the 3, cool.
2.5 Turns is fine, IMO you don't need shock extenders at that setting, but HummerGuy does.
You may consider front shock, I assume you do not have the heavier duty Adventure series shocks? Those Cognitos are sweet, but there are others.
The reason I asked you if they lowered your T bar setting, because IF it really was an issue, they would have.
Sometimes **** happens for whatever reason.
HummerGuy, I had 167K miles on my old GMC, the T bars werereindexed with a superlift kit, don't be loosin any sleep on your T bars wearing out just yet!
2.5 Turns is fine, IMO you don't need shock extenders at that setting, but HummerGuy does.
You may consider front shock, I assume you do not have the heavier duty Adventure series shocks? Those Cognitos are sweet, but there are others. The reason I asked you if they lowered your T bar setting, because IF it really was an issue, they would have.
Sometimes **** happens for whatever reason. HummerGuy, I had 167K miles on my old GMC, the T bars werereindexed with a superlift kit, don't be loosin any sleep on your T bars wearing out just yet!
I didn't read past the original post in the thread cause I don't feel like reading all day...but.....your dealer is a freekin idiot!!!! In an IFS truck the cv-joint seals are the weaest link...they will start leaking on a stock truck that "get's air" or gets wheeled hard...sure adjusting the t-bars changes teh cv angles...the SAME as any front leveling lift kit does...the only way to get around this would be to buy a lift that has a diff lowering bracket that will lower the diff keeping the cv angles near stock....but even then you will get leaky boots at some point in the trucks life....this is why IFS BLOWS for offroad use and why no GMhummer will ever be respected as the off road leader...unless gm gets smart and changes design in the future...but that will never happen as they are all tooled for IFS.


