Has anybody tried gettin speakers installed in the back door where the jack is? It already has closed vents that you could easily cut out and put speakers back there? I know its not that easy but i was just curious to see if anyone has thought to try this?


Also anybody that does have a system in there H3...did you just put a box with the subs in there or did you do it some other way?

 

I could be wrong, but the panel on the back hatch is much lower than the rear seats. Any added sound may be lost or caught in the rear storage space and will not provide a good amount of additional sound. The vents are used to maintain some form of natural airflow when closing the hatch. keeping the door from working to hard to force out air based on the weather stripping making a kind of "airlock".

Since most high amps run four channels, or five with a center channel, you may be better of not going through the trouble. Although six channel amps are available. You can add a killer set of high components in the factory front areas, even the door pillar pods have room for the aftermarket tweeters. If you run components, you can tap the door speakers but run the tweeter wires new from the component EQ box, the factory tweeter wires have a built in resistor in line.

There are also pod replacements for the lower front foot kick panel available. These hold an additional 6.5 mid and tweeter in addition to the factory speaker mounts. This would give you optimal sound performance with the benefit of "drop in" custom add on. If you have a strong enough head unit you can run all four front components off the amp and the rear off the new head unit. Or run the fronts in a series configuration instead of parallel that will keep the ohms at the standard 4ohm pull. This give the front and rear speakers the same draw off the amps instead of stacking or parallel that will drop the front to two ohms and leave the rear at four. Some amps will not work well that way.

As for the subs, we just have a box in the back for now, easier to remove. But we have given thought to replacing the entire rear side storage pockets with a fiberglass insert that would keep one sub on each side and have just enough space to add a full rear deck shelf that run level with the windows and back seats. The shelf would add a second area for storage while concealing the subs below.

 

thanks for the info, I can definitely see what your talkin about...as far as the fiberglass inserts and puttin the subs on the sides do you have any idea of how'd much that would cost?

 

A custom job like that would not e cheap at all. I would guess materials cost alone would be over two or three hundred. Fiberglass gets costly when you have to layer it a half inch thick. But it would be the custom labor that would kill you. You may find a custom shop in your area that could do something simlar. But I would guess the only way to keep costs low would be to build it yourself.

The custom center console shown in our pics took more than twenty hours to complete, not including drying and paint times, and cost sbout 75 bucks in materials to build. While thats not a bad price, we would charge no less than three hundred to build one for someone else. It takes a bit of exsperience to know how to remodify the dash so it can return to factory later, run different air vent assemblies, move switches, and make sure everything functions well.

At least with a standard box, you can move it easy if you need to use the space. Plus its way cheap by comparison.

 

I remember seeing on here about a year ago a guy who put two subs in the tailgate. he was trying to sell the enclosures for about $1000. they looked very good.

Subs are the only speakers you would want to put in that location. all other speakers ound will be blocked by the seats.

Also JL audio makes a stealthbox that fits in the stock sub location, it uses 1 10" sub and has been turned to sound best as possible.