Bumpy Ride: Ideas?
I've replaced almost everything in my suspension except for the following:
1. CV joint
2. Wheel hubs
3. Lower control arms
I've replaced the UCAs & that helped fix the ride. I'm thinking the LCAs might also have bad bushings that are causing the bad ride. Last time I checked, the tires had no play in them when lifting it off the ground. I hear some popping when turning, but nothing major & it's not repeatable. It's random. Turning doesn't change the ride quality, so I'm not thinking it's CV joint either.
I'm tempted to upgrade to the Kyrptonite LCAs, but $900 is a lot. They also aren't powder coated (more money & time), long with a 6 to 8 week lead time.
Thoughts?
1. CV joint
2. Wheel hubs
3. Lower control arms
I've replaced the UCAs & that helped fix the ride. I'm thinking the LCAs might also have bad bushings that are causing the bad ride. Last time I checked, the tires had no play in them when lifting it off the ground. I hear some popping when turning, but nothing major & it's not repeatable. It's random. Turning doesn't change the ride quality, so I'm not thinking it's CV joint either.
I'm tempted to upgrade to the Kyrptonite LCAs, but $900 is a lot. They also aren't powder coated (more money & time), long with a 6 to 8 week lead time.
Thoughts?
It's not the tire pressure.
I'm running BFG KO2s (max pressure of 65 PSI), but I'll cover that so there's no question.
When I originally got the H2 & replaced the worn tires, I had to run the PSI at max. Anything less was horrible (tried increments of 5psi from 40 on up). After replacing the entire rear suspension (shocks, control arms, sway bar & end links), bump stops & shocks all around, I had to run the shocks at max firmness. I could run between 60 to 65 PSI on the tires, but that's it. Anything less firm (shocks or tires) wold make every imperfection in the road feel horrible.
After replacing the UCA, tie rods, idler & pitman arms, I can reduce the firmness to 75% of the shocks (I have about 21 clicks of adjustment) & run the tires at 50 PSI. It rides better, but I still feel many imperfections, just not as many as before.
Like I said, my 2003 was amazing & I felt nothing in the road. I ran the original KOs at max PSI because I had no clue at the time, lol. Even at max back then, the vehicle road like I was on glass & it wasn't an air suspension. The 09 should be the same...
This is why I'm thinking of replacing all of the bushings & ball joints on the LCAs. Everything on this H2 was shot when I got it. I should probably replace everything I mentioned now, but I can't seem to make money trees grow for some reason, lol.
I'm more or less trying to reconfirm that the problem lies with worn out parts on the LCAs.
I'm running BFG KO2s (max pressure of 65 PSI), but I'll cover that so there's no question.
When I originally got the H2 & replaced the worn tires, I had to run the PSI at max. Anything less was horrible (tried increments of 5psi from 40 on up). After replacing the entire rear suspension (shocks, control arms, sway bar & end links), bump stops & shocks all around, I had to run the shocks at max firmness. I could run between 60 to 65 PSI on the tires, but that's it. Anything less firm (shocks or tires) wold make every imperfection in the road feel horrible.
After replacing the UCA, tie rods, idler & pitman arms, I can reduce the firmness to 75% of the shocks (I have about 21 clicks of adjustment) & run the tires at 50 PSI. It rides better, but I still feel many imperfections, just not as many as before.
Like I said, my 2003 was amazing & I felt nothing in the road. I ran the original KOs at max PSI because I had no clue at the time, lol. Even at max back then, the vehicle road like I was on glass & it wasn't an air suspension. The 09 should be the same...
This is why I'm thinking of replacing all of the bushings & ball joints on the LCAs. Everything on this H2 was shot when I got it. I should probably replace everything I mentioned now, but I can't seem to make money trees grow for some reason, lol.
I'm more or less trying to reconfirm that the problem lies with worn out parts on the LCAs.
I'm basically sold on the LCA bushings & ball joints.
I took the H2 on the interstate this morning & all of the stuff that was replaced really changed the way it rides. The LCA is probably the lynch pin in the equation. It's not the tire pressure.
Can anyone recommend quality bushings?
Energy Suspension? Moog? Kryptonite?
A graphite polyurethane bushing would be ideal. I know what ball joint I'm getting.
I took the H2 on the interstate this morning & all of the stuff that was replaced really changed the way it rides. The LCA is probably the lynch pin in the equation. It's not the tire pressure.
Can anyone recommend quality bushings?
Energy Suspension? Moog? Kryptonite?
A graphite polyurethane bushing would be ideal. I know what ball joint I'm getting.
Thanks!
I haven't read many good things about moog in the past year or 2. I tried to stay away from them with every suspension upgrade I've done, so I won't be going with them.
I was looking at Dmax store & they offer the following:
Moog: $48
Dmax XD: $50
Kryptonite: $55
Since the Kryptonite is only $5 more than the Dmax & has a lifetime warranty vs 3 years, I'll probably go with that option.
Are you doing bushings? Which did you pick?
I don't want to deal with any that squeak b/c they can't be lubricated.
I was looking at Dmax store & they offer the following:
Moog: $48
Dmax XD: $50
Kryptonite: $55
Since the Kryptonite is only $5 more than the Dmax & has a lifetime warranty vs 3 years, I'll probably go with that option.
Are you doing bushings? Which did you pick?
I don't want to deal with any that squeak b/c they can't be lubricated.
I'm sold on the Kryptonite ball joints. I was thinking of getting the Energy bushings. I'm not sure how much difference they make anyway.
What are your thought on the UCA's that you got? I'm not sure I want to cut and weld to replace them.
Please keep us posted on your progress. I appreciate all that you have posted to help those of us that have just gotten started.
What are your thought on the UCA's that you got? I'm not sure I want to cut and weld to replace them.
Please keep us posted on your progress. I appreciate all that you have posted to help those of us that have just gotten started.
Why do you like the kryptonite ball joints?
Did you hear anything good about them over stock?
The UCAs don't require cutting or welding. They are a direct drop in.
The Kryptonites are light. Very light. I was almost disappointed, lol. I figured that the UCAs would feel more stout & heavy. The reality is that the boxed frame design allows for a lot less material to be used, while it's still stronger than the stock GM design.
I'm still in the process of fixing everything, so no one fix has made it ride perfectly. Comparing the before & after ride quality, it's night & day. All of my bushings & ball joints were own out, so it absorbs just about everything. I'm not bottoming out as much either. I think the weight reduction has helped.
That's why I'm still "considering" the LCAs. I'm wondering if the weight reduction makes a significant improvement in ride quality & wheel articulation. I don't know... It's just a lot of money to dump. If they were $500 or even $600, I'd consider it. $900 is a lot & they aren't even painted. I harp on that a lot. I'll dig around a little more & see if I can find anyone on duramax related forums who've bought the LCAs, maybe I can get more insight.
Did you hear anything good about them over stock?
The UCAs don't require cutting or welding. They are a direct drop in.
The Kryptonites are light. Very light. I was almost disappointed, lol. I figured that the UCAs would feel more stout & heavy. The reality is that the boxed frame design allows for a lot less material to be used, while it's still stronger than the stock GM design.
I'm still in the process of fixing everything, so no one fix has made it ride perfectly. Comparing the before & after ride quality, it's night & day. All of my bushings & ball joints were own out, so it absorbs just about everything. I'm not bottoming out as much either. I think the weight reduction has helped.
That's why I'm still "considering" the LCAs. I'm wondering if the weight reduction makes a significant improvement in ride quality & wheel articulation. I don't know... It's just a lot of money to dump. If they were $500 or even $600, I'd consider it. $900 is a lot & they aren't even painted. I harp on that a lot. I'll dig around a little more & see if I can find anyone on duramax related forums who've bought the LCAs, maybe I can get more insight.
I had read about Kryptonite in a couple of other forums but your question really got me to thinking and go do some more research. I have used Moog and OEM with no problems on other trucks but I am not rock climbing or anything too crazy. My wheeling will be either sand or mud. I really like the Kryptonite UCA kit from DMax but I am now thinking about using AC Delco UCA with ball joints and bushings already installed for $80 ea. and maybe AC Delco Professional BJ's in the LCA's. I just can't seem to justify the price of the Kryptonite UCA to fix what probably won't be a problem for me.
My truck runs, rides, and drives great so I am not trying to fix a problem just avoid them in the future.
I'm glad you got your bumpy ride problem figured out and the fix was cheap!
My truck runs, rides, and drives great so I am not trying to fix a problem just avoid them in the future.
I'm glad you got your bumpy ride problem figured out and the fix was cheap!


