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brake line replacement...

Old Aug 28, 2014 | 08:05 AM
  #11  
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Those lines and fittings will most likely need to be heated to break free. Another trick is when you have the line wrench on there with a good fit you need to smack it. The sudden impact will break them free most of the time. If you are installing a new line then the easiest way is to cut the line of and use a 6 point socket on the fitting. Good luck.
 
Old Sep 3, 2014 | 07:03 AM
  #12  
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did the unspeakable... removed the whole bcm unit.. cut all lines at the bcm.. .. and finally had all fittings loosen... now time for me to do some bending... i also discovered the previous owner who had someone do the job... just have portion of the lines replaced.. which is useless as those sections which are not replaced are the ones which corroded and leaked.... a six pt socket and 25inch breaker bar did wonders

 
Old Sep 9, 2014 | 08:23 PM
  #13  
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finally had some time to do the bending.. first off one line from the main reservoir to the ABS unit



cheap HF tool looks like the slot for the 5/16 tube fitted the 3/8 slots on this tool... and bend fine..


some test bend to find out exactly which slot on the tool works best... so you can see that.. using the biggest slot , the tool so called it for 5/16 tube is too loose..


ok after 20 mins..this is what i have
 

Last edited by eleewhm; Oct 28, 2014 at 06:58 PM.
Old Sep 13, 2014 | 01:03 AM
  #14  
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i went old school, left the squish box and rusty lines connected. bought one of these brake line replacement...-screenshot-2014-09-13-01.55.52.jpg mounted lower than the master, ran copper same as you, but no need for tool to bend the butter, less bends the better.
 
Old Sep 15, 2014 | 12:13 PM
  #15  
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whats that ??... valve??

anyway... cleanup the whole unit around the fittings..done all the lines from the main reservoir... next few days.. i am going to remove the right front line..and left line



also had the chance to redo the skidplate.. the transmission guard and the bottom guard...its was all surface rust... grinnded of all surface rust, and seal it in Rust Seal Silver color
 
Old Sep 16, 2014 | 04:51 PM
  #16  
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yes brake proportioning valve. the way cars stopped before they added abs to them.
 
Old Sep 16, 2014 | 06:07 PM
  #17  
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I think I need to take a closer look at my brake lines or just replace them before they get to that point. looks good lots of patiences
 
Old Oct 12, 2014 | 01:23 PM
  #18  
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flaring all done easily on this hand tool




 
Old Oct 12, 2014 | 07:24 PM
  #19  
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have wondered since the beginning of time why they didn't use stainless for brake and fuel lines, ive gone through this bs on many of my vehicles living and driving here in the Pennsylvania winters, its like driving through salt mines every winter, oh and I use pb blaster to get these loose, or heat, or cut and use socket
 
Old Oct 13, 2014 | 11:56 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by yoymon
have wondered since the beginning of time why they didn't use stainless for brake and fuel lines, ive gone through this bs on many of my vehicles living and driving here in the Pennsylvania winters, its like driving through salt mines every winter, oh and I use pb blaster to get these loose, or heat, or cut and use socket

i cut them loose and removed the whole BCM .. as i wanted to clear and derust the whole area where the BCM was...
 

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