Thanks for the kind replies everyone.
It really feels good to be behind the wheel of an H2 again.

Anyways, here's the mileage.

 

Here's the circuit diagram for the heated steering wheel.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9j...ew?usp=sharing

Circuit diagram for power tilt steering column.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9j...ew?usp=sharing

 

This will be a project a little bit down the line. I'm guessing there's some soldering? I've dabbled, but in now way am I a pro. Should be interesting. Thanks so much!

Getting ride better on the H2 is top priority right now. I was getting wobbling at anything over 65mph. I decreased the tire PSI to 40 on all tires (stock Goodyear SR-A 305/60r20) & the shaking began. Before that, there was no shaking, but all tires were at 58 PSI by the selling dealership & the ride was harsh. The tire claims max is 50 & I believe it say 42 PSI on the door handle. 1 or 2 PSI won't make a difference in the ride right now. I think it's more so worn suspension parts.

This is why I'm thinking 315/70r17 KO2s. My old 03 H2 never had ride issues with more side wall. Of course, it was 99% highway/city driving. The previous owner saw much more off road usage as there's layers of dirt that look like creosote all over the frame & some of the wiring harness.

I'll make a thread with specific questions on this, but for now, I'm very, very happy.

 

Nice, did you buy it in Arizona?

 

If the wobble only happened above 65mph then your problem is the tires or a bent wheel. Check the wheel and tires for run-out and re-balance them. You could also swap the front to rear to see if the wobble goes away. Make sure to torque the lug nuts to 140 ft.lbs.

 

Close, Texas.

If I go with 17s (it's looking in that direction), I won't bother for now. I will check though since all the H2 rims are EOL & 20s are probably not that common. I may want to use them in the future. That would be "best case scenario".

What's the best way to check? I've seen different methods. One used a wheel on a spring, but it looks like you need a few tools to check the tire & the rotor. As much as I hate to ask, is that sort of thing worth taking to a tire store to check?

Thanks for the torque numbers. Again, thanks for all the info as a whole.

 

Ok I saw an 09 for sale here recently that looked a lot like yours, good looking Hummer

 

Yeah! I didn't want to post the plate as it would be a dead give away.

It was the cheapest 09 I could find & it only had one owner, plus captains chairs, etc. There were lower mileage ones, but they were in worse condition or had electrical problems (carfax).
All things considered, the cost of vehicles now is tremendous. What I mean is I'd have to pay $10k more for another 09 with 80K+ miles on it, where as I could just suck it up, save more & put another $15k towards the diesel conversion in so many years down the road. Considering the diesel conversion is "only" $25k+, that seems like a better option for me than buying a new SUV that's far less capable (look at the prices of new Yukons & Escalades which start at $46K and only go up). As well, the Duramax should last 500K to 750K at the very least with preventive maintenance.
Where I live, it floods, so I'll stick with an SUV that can deal with water that's not a jeep. After two Chysler lemons in a row & fighting to get any warranty support for over a year, I'm done.
H2s were always built well, hell, hummers in general were. The H3 in the picture is my mother's. She loves it. I don't plan on getting rid of this H2 & frankly, parts are still around, even frames, as some have mentioned.

Back to the truck, I know a guy in TX who thinks it probably belonged to someone who inspected oil drilling sites. They make tons of money & don't really do much, so that's probably why it had such little wear inside.

I feel lucky to have snagged it. There was no market for it at that dealership & it sat for a while.

 

BE very carefully who does your diesel conversion... Do not use MASH MOTORS in KS. They did my conversion and it would never start again with out opening the hood and priming the fuel pump. ONLY use Predator motor sport, ask for Ryan the CEO, this guy stands behind everything he does, and he has done over a 100 conversions. Personally I would go with a used diesel over the brand new like I did, you get the old computer and the thing seem to run better. Here is a couple of Photos of my last H2 SUT..This is when I was selling it...lol

 

Thanks for the info!

You know, I read your review of Mash. They were off my list instantly.
I only have 2 I'll consider: Duraburb inc & Predator. Duraburb is closer & I like how they do things, but I'll have to read even more reviews & get quotes.
That won't be until the engine craps out or I somehow get the funds earlier.

I'm not sure how the used vs new compared. The 2007 and earlier use the LBZ engines. The 2008-2009s use the LMM. I'm not sure if there's a difference in older vs newer. I'd want to get quotes for both as well as warranty (and if the warranty is even worth a damn).


On the topic of your H2, is the current H2 the on in the pics or did you sell off that SUT for the one you have?