It sure would be a wake up call if a cap blew..... How do you deal with low voltage problems?

 

better battery, red or yellow tops. Bigger alternator or a second one. More than one cap and lower farrat cap. all these help with low voltage

 

I am on the same process...have bought all my stuff and yes...I'm using one of those wildly unsafe caps My issue is that my amps are both big...have a 4 channel alpine and a profile sub amp. I really, really, really wish I could put them under the back seat...I hate them being visible. I think that attaching them to a box is saying to a wood-be thief- "hey, don't worry, you can take all this stuff by just grabbing it and run away quick". Having had my audio stolen before...I kind of want to keep it this time!

BTW since it sort of applies...I am right now working on building a fiberglass enclosure for my 2 10's. I found alot of resources on the 'net and have built a "practice" project and I'm starting to get the feel for it...if anybody is considering it feel free to email me and at least I'll tell you what I know (if that helps). My email is michael_o_brien1@sbcglobal.net .

L8tr.

 

Is the enclosier going to replace a panel?

Someone could make some BANK$$$$$$ if they had custom panels for the H3 (something better than the cheese that GM offers)

 

i've used caps before with no problem,keeps the amps from overheating and clipping. they're actually not the same as transformers on power lines, as those change the output voltage and a capacitor stores it. although massive caps do make quite the bang when they blow up - seen one in a HF transmitter go once and filled a 150' x 40' building wing with a lovely haze and smell. still, if you do it carefully you shouldn't have any issues with shorts - accidents can't be prevented . . . . .

 

just get a digital voltage regulator...better than acap...looks better and safe

 

Not trying to disagree with you importkiller-but caps are not dangerous-Richard Clark (who invented the use of them in car audio) stuck one down his pants and shorted it-just a big spark-now you can pop out the di-electric out the vent hole on top by hooking it up backwards-but no explosion-caps are very mis-marketed. Increasing the gauge of your wiring will cost much less and do much more for your system.

 

Holly tight squeeze I'm have all kinds of trouble trying to figure out where to stash a LARGE JBL 550W amp for the front 6 speakers AND a smaller 700W JBL woffer amp.
More and more I'm liking Importkillers back of the back seat mount and stashing all of the other goodies under the rear panels, I'm also thinking about running the 0 gauge lead wire back on the frame and entering the body up into the rear panel? Then running all the other wires to the head unit in the interior, In closing if anybody made aftermarket rear panels large enough to hide audio gear with an access panel they would sell like hotcakes.

 

I'm going to try to do what the Alpine Hummer project did. If I make some brackets and put the amps at a 45' angle I think the panel will still go back on and I can get to the adjustment settings. There is only room for one amp per panel so I'll have to do this to both sides. Should be interesting!

(images from the Alpine H3 project)

 

[:@] I'm pretty disgusted with the lack of ability to hide my amps as well! They are both 12" long...and there is just NOWHERE to hide them. I like the side-panel idea...still trying to figure out how to remove the panel without destroying it because I know how I am and I want to be able to put it back as stock without a problem in the future. I have to agree that the interior panel for $149 from the dealer is MUCH cheaper than I would have expected.

Making something out of fiberglass is kind of a pain in the **** or I would try to market them...the problem is I would have to charge an arm and a leg and some more or it wouldn't be worth it. I took vacation time next week to get this thing made...we'll see how it all turns out wont we!?

I am the world's worst at removing interior panels...I'm terrified I'm going to brake something in the process-anybody taken theirs out yet? I'm thinking of taking mine out and molding to it...but then I'll need to get a replacement before I decide to trade it off.

On the note of the wiring vs. cap- I think running 0 guage wire AND having a cap is the way to go. Since we have all agreed it's not going to kill me...and it definately will help by feeding two hungry amplifiers...I just wish I knew where the heck to put it (no suggestions please.

I'll keep you posted on my fiberglass follies...