Wulf lift?
Has anyone ever used this lift and if so what are your thosights on it? I’ve been looking for a lift that wont break the bank thanks
WULF 3" Front 3" Rear Lift Kit w/Pro Comp Shocks 2006-2010 Hummer H3 H-3 4X4 4WD Suspensions https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DD2WV3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N93EBbS70MB2N
WULF 3" Front 3" Rear Lift Kit w/Pro Comp Shocks 2006-2010 Hummer H3 H-3 4X4 4WD Suspensions https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DD2WV3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N93EBbS70MB2N
Anything that includes replacement T Bar Keys is a waste of $$. The MAX front leveling w/o a body lift is 23.5" fender lip to center hub, your OEM factory T Bar keys can already do that with the turn of a wrench. So unless your front end is super low before you start, you likely will not get 3" of lift up front. Go past 23.5" and you will start tearing up stuff pretty quick and the steering will suffer. If your stock T Bars are so tired they can't get to 23.5" with stock Keys, then get new T Bars.
If you then add shackles to the rear, if you think the front is lower than you like it now, it will definitely look raked then.
If you then add shackles to the rear, if you think the front is lower than you like it now, it will definitely look raked then.
Got it, thanks. What is an acceptable lift for these? I’ve done the blocks in the rear and torsion in front on my Dakota, then a spacer in front and blocks in the rear on my tundra. I had no longer own those but had them for years.
I’ve searched and seen several different lift types on this forum. I’m not looking to go crazy, I’m guessing 2- 3 inch steel blocks in the rear and torsion in front not to exceed 23.5 inches. Anyone have a Best price on these?
I’ve searched and seen several different lift types on this forum. I’m not looking to go crazy, I’m guessing 2- 3 inch steel blocks in the rear and torsion in front not to exceed 23.5 inches. Anyone have a Best price on these?
Last edited by Backporch73; Aug 21, 2018 at 09:18 AM. Reason: Needs clarification
Most guys do nothing with the rear except add rear shock mount/U Bolt skids.
Longer shackles can add an inch or two if that is what you are looking for.
You can't use blocks in the rear of an H3 unless you want to lower it, the leaf springs sit UNDER the rear axle, not over it.
Recipe for a wheeling machine: Tires, under carriage protection, rock rails, rear shock mount/U Bolt skids and you can wheel circles around most everything, no lift required.
Longer shackles can add an inch or two if that is what you are looking for.
You can't use blocks in the rear of an H3 unless you want to lower it, the leaf springs sit UNDER the rear axle, not over it.
Recipe for a wheeling machine: Tires, under carriage protection, rock rails, rear shock mount/U Bolt skids and you can wheel circles around most everything, no lift required.
I 100% agree with everything Doc posted.
Most owners just adjust the torsion bars to "level" the front end with the rear. Don't waste your hard earned $ on usless keys!
A 35" tire will fit on an H3 in STOCK form. (315/75R16 with the OEM 16" wheels)
That alone will increase the ride height as well as the approach, departure and break-over angles.
Not to mention it just fills the wheel wells nicely.
Most owners just adjust the torsion bars to "level" the front end with the rear. Don't waste your hard earned $ on usless keys!
A 35" tire will fit on an H3 in STOCK form. (315/75R16 with the OEM 16" wheels)
That alone will increase the ride height as well as the approach, departure and break-over angles.
Not to mention it just fills the wheel wells nicely.
WOW thanks! I didn’t look at the rear end closely enough during the brake job to notice that. I’m wondering if someone already did all this. I’m in the middle of the air intake and sensor cleaning job I’ll check the height in a few. Thanks so much guys!!
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