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rear door lock dead

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  #11  
Old 02-21-2012, 07:47 AM
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thanks guys.
this is only one problem in a long list of problems my wife has had with her h3. i have recently replaced the driver door panel with a brand new one, so i doubt that is the problem. im going to try to unplug and check for voltage when pressing unlock. i will keep you updated.
 
  #12  
Old 02-21-2012, 11:07 AM
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i have recently replaced the driver door panel with a brand new one,
was the rear hatch working b4 that?? or was that an attempt to fix it?
 
  #13  
Old 02-22-2012, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by drtom
was the rear hatch working b4 that?? or was that an attempt to fix it?
the light went out on the door panel switches, so you have to replace the whole switch panel to fix this.
can anyone take a picture of where i need to press with the screwdriver or needle nose pliers to open the rear door?
also does anyone have the part number for the rear door lock that could be dead?
i still need to test the voltage on the harness going into the lock if i can get it unplugged....
 
  #14  
Old 02-22-2012, 09:59 PM
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was the rear hatch working b4 that?? or was that an attempt to fix it?

still trying to figure out if you caused the problem when you changed the front assm.

so,[QUOTEwas the rear hatch working b4 that?? or was that an attempt to fix it?][/QUOTE]

at what point did the rear quit working?

!!
 
  #15  
Old 02-23-2012, 04:23 PM
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im bumping this just because its an unsolved,?unsolveable problem and being ignored.

i dont see any way short of ripping out the junk in there if possible,AND that would be difficult,WITH THE DOOR OPEN!!
imagine laying in there on the floor trying to do anything

not hearing from the guy is no help
 
  #16  
Old 02-23-2012, 04:42 PM
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When the weather warms up, I plan on removing the latch and gaining access to the locking lever by removing the protective cover. I'm going to drill a small hole in the lever, and attach a small diameter twisted metal cable (similar to a fishing leader) and make a loop in the end using a crimp butt connector. This will hang down off the latch, in the stowage compartment, and be accessible as a manual override. Since I really don't anticipate a failure before spring, I'm not in any hurry. I will definitely post pics with a step by step.
 
  #17  
Old 02-24-2012, 07:49 AM
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It was one day I couldn't check...I'm sorry I couldn't get back sooner, I was on duty for the last 24 hours...
I want to find a way to open the door but I'm afraid I won't be able to close the door and latch it shut as my wife still has to drive it every day...
 
  #18  
Old 02-24-2012, 07:50 AM
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Btw the rear door worked fine prior to a week ago with no previous problems.
 
  #19  
Old 02-24-2012, 08:22 AM
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Btw the rear door worked fine prior to a week ago with no previous problems.
ok,finally! good news. it sounds llike you caused it and the door latch is ok. you need to really look at what you did in the driver door. reverse the process?put the old stuff back?.
you could have bad connections, a bad new part.???

or at least unhook the batt for 30 min,(they say!)
 
  #20  
Old 03-02-2012, 07:14 PM
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All I did was change the window switch panel on the driver door. This was TWO YEARS ago! Now way this is the problem... Now talking to my wife, she says that she did have a problem with the rear door not unlocking a week prior to total failure. I guess this was a warning... I'm going to order the new motor soon. Does anybody know how i can get this door open? Any way you could take a pick and show me where to push to unlatch? I obviously will not do this until i have the part on hand.
 


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