problem with ac climate control need some help..
#61
11-18-2014, 01:03 PM
A/C temp control
Just completed the resistor installation. Much easier than than I thought and much, much cheaper than a complete control unit replacement. 1 pack of Radio Shack resistors; $2.68, 1 hour time to perform, shrink tubing, heat gun and soldering pencil (low watt). Easy! Result, no freezing or cooking my *** off when I want some air recirc. Up yours GM!
#62
09-14-2015, 01:22 AM
I am in Thailand and have had a very hard time getting this specific A/C issue fixed. This thread is awesome. I followed the instruction with a resister modification to HVAC wire. It worked great! The temperature control can be adjust accordingly now. Thank you so much for sharing the information.
#63
08-30-2016, 11:55 AM
I did the resistor fix last night on my 2007 H3x and it worked like a charm!
That was my first time removing the center panel. I left all of the connectors attached except for the one that I had to work on. In hindsight, I probably would have disconnected all the plugs and set the center dash panel to the side....because having the connectors attached left for a TIGHT workspace. I felt like I was standing on my head at times getting a soldering iron in there and everything.
Note: I know this a semi-necro-bump and the forum discourages that. But this thread is the real deal and still contains a valuable/relevant fix.
That was my first time removing the center panel. I left all of the connectors attached except for the one that I had to work on. In hindsight, I probably would have disconnected all the plugs and set the center dash panel to the side....because having the connectors attached left for a TIGHT workspace. I felt like I was standing on my head at times getting a soldering iron in there and everything.
Note: I know this a semi-necro-bump and the forum discourages that. But this thread is the real deal and still contains a valuable/relevant fix.
#65
10-03-2019, 09:50 AM
Reviving old thread. Anyone try a resistor on the mode control for a similar issue
we have a 2007 h3 (original owners), and I just did the resistor trick. Worked great for the temp control. I noticed that before i installed the resistor basically 2 of the 3 actuators would move a complete 90 degrees as soon as I moved the temp one click from coldest. I am having a similar issue where moving the mode one click from the left sends all of the air to the windshield, so I assume that actuator is doing the same thing. Would installing a 68ohm resistor in-line to one of the wires on mode control fix this? If so any clue which wire?
#66
10-03-2019, 12:55 PM
we have a 2007 h3 (original owners), and I just did the resistor trick. Worked great for the temp control. I noticed that before i installed the resistor basically 2 of the 3 actuators would move a complete 90 degrees as soon as I moved the temp one click from coldest. I am having a similar issue where moving the mode one click from the left sends all of the air to the windshield, so I assume that actuator is doing the same thing. Would installing a 68ohm resistor in-line to one of the wires on mode control fix this? If so any clue which wire?
READ: Old Threads/'Necro-Bumping'
#67
10-03-2019, 01:43 PM
:).
Have you have the HVAC recall performed yet? Also keep in mind this thread is OLD and we frown upon digging up old threads.
READ: Old Threads/'Necro-Bumping'
READ: Old Threads/'Necro-Bumping'
that being said, the recall is just on the hvac resistor behind the glove box, correct? I actually replaced that a year before the recall myself because the blower stopped working, and I noticed how totally fried that thing was. I’m shocked our h3 didn’t have a fire. The blower works fine, temp works fine now, but the mode control does not.
#69
12-29-2022, 06:30 PM
I have replaced my blend door and still does not work.. Only way my heat will work is cranked all the way up on 90 degrees turn it down to 89 degrees and it blows cold not a/c cold but cold. I don’t know other than changing the thermostat in the head liner which I guess will be my next step to solving this issue. Any help?
#70
08-23-2023, 09:20 AM
Your post of this is the first time I saw the resistor fix. I guess I never saw or was not interested whenever it was first posted.
I would like to thank you for posting it recently. It seems to be happening more often to more people. It happened to me and I did the fix.
Since I see people asking about it I thought I would post how I did it to help those needing more info. It's great to have people with a common interest getting together to fix things.
The procedure here is the HUNNER method of installing it. Proceed at your own risk.
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I would like to thank you for posting it recently. It seems to be happening more often to more people. It happened to me and I did the fix.
Since I see people asking about it I thought I would post how I did it to help those needing more info. It's great to have people with a common interest getting together to fix things.
The procedure here is the HUNNER method of installing it. Proceed at your own risk.
- I did not disconnect the battery as I wanted to confirm this resistor fixed it instead of by some fluke disconnecting the battery did.
- Set the parking brake. Turn the key on.
- It helps to shift to Low. However leaving the key on will drive you nuts so after removing the dash piece I put it back in park.
- Disconnecting the battery would of course shut the dinger bell off. So I would recommend that and you can leave it in low to have more room, now that we know this did fix it. (fingers crossed)
- First you have to do the stick your fingers in the DC sockets and pull up and out.
- I cut me a piece of cardboard for a work surface in case solder dropped.
- I disconnected the plug from the back of the switch to get more room to work
- Find the light blue wire with black stripe. I peeled back the high quality gooey sticky black electrical tape GM chose to use far enough to expose the wire back into the loom so I could slide on some shrink wrap long enough to cover the splice.
- Call me old school, I'm old and went to school, but just as in my battery thread I make a physical connection first then solder.
- I used some forceps for a heat sink.
- I used a Radio Shack 68 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. They come 5 to a pack for $1.30 or $.26 a piece.
- If you don't know, use a low wattage iron so as not to fry the insulation on each end. Heat the wire until it pulls some solder as you feed it.
- Use some fine solder, Radio Shack still has that!
- Grabbed a short piece of shrink wrap I keep around. After the solder area cools slide the shrink wrap you remembered to slide on BEFORE you soldered over the entire splice. Use a heat gun carefully to shrink the wrap and secure and insulate your splice. I did not re-tape it at this time as I wanted to test it first. I will use a high grade of black electrical tape or some loom.
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