Power Steering Squeal
2007 H3 with 180,000 miles. The power steering pump squeals when the wheels are turned like it is starved for fluid when the engine is first started. Wife says it stops after being run for a while. I'm like...this is one of those things you need to tell me about IMMEDIATELY!! So we start it up cold and turn the wheels, and sure enough, it squeals. Shut it down and immediately check the fluid reservoir, and it's high...way high. Drive it into the garage and I can smell a burned fluid smell. Would this indicate some kind of blockage in the reservoir preventing the fluid from feeding the pump? I read a post where someone cut a reservoir in half and there was a filter or screen inside the reservoir that was clogged. But at $95 for a new reservoir, I would like to avoid that kind of destructive analysis. Is there a way to backflush the reservoir to clean this filter? Any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Mark
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Mark
You may have one of three things going on, or possibly some combination of the three. 1) bad pump; 2) sticking valve in the steering rack; and, 3) dirty fluid blocking the reservoir screen.
When you checked the level, did the fluid look dark/burnt?
As your pump wears, the power steering fluid becomes contaminated over time. If the pump is failing, creates even greater contamination which can block the reservoir screen and cause crud to build up in the rack valves possibly leading to a sticky situation.
You can drain the fluid, remove the reservoir and flush it clean with Seafoam or carb cleaner.... but make sure blow some low pressure air through to clean out whatever you used to clean it, then rinse it well with new power steering fluid which you will not use to fill the reservoir once re-assembled. If it were me, once you remove the reservoir and confirm crud on the bottom, you are half way to replacing it so I would.
You do not want to run cleaners through the system as they eat O rings and seals and risk later leaks. If you fluid was dirty enough to block the screen, I would flush the entire system.... on line vids out there for the how to on that. Then fill it with fresh and call it done.
When you checked the level, did the fluid look dark/burnt?
As your pump wears, the power steering fluid becomes contaminated over time. If the pump is failing, creates even greater contamination which can block the reservoir screen and cause crud to build up in the rack valves possibly leading to a sticky situation.
You can drain the fluid, remove the reservoir and flush it clean with Seafoam or carb cleaner.... but make sure blow some low pressure air through to clean out whatever you used to clean it, then rinse it well with new power steering fluid which you will not use to fill the reservoir once re-assembled. If it were me, once you remove the reservoir and confirm crud on the bottom, you are half way to replacing it so I would.
You do not want to run cleaners through the system as they eat O rings and seals and risk later leaks. If you fluid was dirty enough to block the screen, I would flush the entire system.... on line vids out there for the how to on that. Then fill it with fresh and call it done.
Also, adding a Magnefine or similar 3/8 inch tranny/power steering filter in the return line will ward off future failure. I have used them on multiple vehicles over many years and have never had a power steering problem. An example: ‘ 81 GMC 4x4 with 225k, original pump and steering box. Just like the day I purchased it and never even a fluid seep! I have only used AC DELCO fluid and dumped it every few years when I change the filter.
2007 H3 with 180,000 miles. The power steering pump squeals when the wheels are turned like it is starved for fluid when the engine is first started. Wife says it stops after being run for a while. I'm like...this is one of those things you need to tell me about IMMEDIATELY!! So we start it up cold and turn the wheels, and sure enough, it squeals. Shut it down and immediately check the fluid reservoir, and it's high...way high. Drive it into the garage and I can smell a burned fluid smell. Would this indicate some kind of blockage in the reservoir preventing the fluid from feeding the pump? I read a post where someone cut a reservoir in half and there was a filter or screen inside the reservoir that was clogged. But at $95 for a new reservoir, I would like to avoid that kind of destructive analysis. Is there a way to backflush the reservoir to clean this filter? Any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Mark
Thanks for any help you can offer.
Mark
Most important is to thoroughly flush/exchange the system with new fluid. Same as engine, trans, coolant, brake, diff, tc, etc... Power steering fluid should also be changed at recommended service intervals. Hopefully you caught it in time, preventing big $$$$ damage. GL
Last edited by hummerz; Nov 22, 2019 at 05:18 PM.
Thanks for the valuable advice gentlemen. I'll be working on this shortly. Going through a move right now. I'm at one house, Hummer at the other, tools...not sure where. When I get into it, I'll update my progress.
Mark
Mark
Not quite the same issue, but when I was in the engine compartment changing my oil pressure switch, my gorilla arms broke off the return nipple off. I had to get to work so I let the fluid drain (like I really had a choice) and drove for maybe 50km. (canadian). I managed to get the nipple epoxied back on and strong and filled it with fluid. I tried to bleed as much air out of it but it's now really sporadic in working like it still has air.
Might I have damage the pump by driving with no fluid?
I had removed the pump to get easier access to the reservoir to epoxy the nipple and made sure there was no dirt in the screen on the high pressure side etc.
For the low cost of a replacement pump....I just want to make sure that it's not just air lock.
Might I have damage the pump by driving with no fluid?
I had removed the pump to get easier access to the reservoir to epoxy the nipple and made sure there was no dirt in the screen on the high pressure side etc.
For the low cost of a replacement pump....I just want to make sure that it's not just air lock.
Wongsol,
I'll have to convert that to a distance unit I can relate to. So 50 km is about 5.285E-12 light years or about 31 miles...So drive time of 30-40 minutes? Was it growling at you the whole time? Did it smell like burnt fluid (or burnt anything) when you stopped? If the pump was truly running dry that whole time, I would be willing to bet it has seen it's better days.
Best of luck,
Mark
I'll have to convert that to a distance unit I can relate to. So 50 km is about 5.285E-12 light years or about 31 miles...So drive time of 30-40 minutes? Was it growling at you the whole time? Did it smell like burnt fluid (or burnt anything) when you stopped? If the pump was truly running dry that whole time, I would be willing to bet it has seen it's better days.
Best of luck,
Mark
No smell, no noise. That's the surprising part. Like I said, there is sporadic operation.
I'm going to use the PSF recommended as what's in there is ATF at the moment and see if that makes a difference, if not, then I'll put a new pump on.
I'm going to use the PSF recommended as what's in there is ATF at the moment and see if that makes a difference, if not, then I'll put a new pump on.
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