It's well documented that OEM P/S pump replacement parts are not easy to find but what I haven't come across is whether I can reuse the OEM reservoir with a different pump. My P/S pump is shot but my reservoir seems to be okay. Can't verify the screen on the inside of the reservoir, but with basically no options for a pump + reservoir I purchased a new Cardone P/S pump in hopes that I would be able to swap the pump but reuse the OEM reservoir. The pump should be here tomorrow but I wasn't able to see closely enough in the pictures where any attachment would be located.

At the risk of sounding like an idiot, are replacement pump reservoirs designed to fit different pumps? I would have just purchased a Cardone P/S pump reservoir but one doesn't seem to exist for the H3 which makes me think that it can be reused. It seemed really odd to me that this would be the case but I'm wondering if anyone has experience with a Cardone replacement pump and could enlighten me. Trying to get this done tomorrow.

 

As long as you can safely remove the OEM reservoir from your old pump without breaking it there is no reason why you can't reuse it.
That is why they sell the pump only in many cases.

FYI, I have also heard several times that the Colorado/Canyon pump/OEM reservoir is the same except for the pully. Swap the pully and it fits perfectly.

 

Well I anticipated this would be a fairly simple process, especially after handling the rack and pinion without issue, but of course it's not. Got the new pump and reused the reservoir but after the flush and bleed process, either the P/S pump or the reservoir is making a horrible noise both at idle and even more so when turning the wheel. The fluid is also a milky color with tons of tiny bubbles. Really seemed like I have air in the system but doing the bleed process does not make any improvements and now I'm thinking the reservoir is done for. Here's a video I grabbed a bit ago:


Also added an inline filter and confirmed the flow is correct. Anyone recognize this sound and tell me where I've gone wrong? I've flushed the system twice in the recent past and didn't have this problem. Quick recap of my process:

1. Flushed system by pulling return hose and turning wheels (lifted off ground) lock to lock a number of times.
2. Attached old reservoir to new P/S pump and installed.
3. Reattached high pressure and return hose, filled and capped.
4. With car running, pumped brakes 15 times to activate hydro boost (no noise heard)
5. Turned car OFF but to the ON position and turned wheels lock to lock 15 times.
6. Checked fluid level in reservoir and noticed it was all gone so added more fluid and capped.
7. Performed bleed process of turning wheels lock to lock 8 times again.
8. Lowered car and cranked it but this is where the noise was heard. Turning wheels make it much worse.
9. Checked fluid again and saw the milky/bubbly fluid.

I let it sit for just a few minutes and looked again and the fluid was completely back to normal. Performed the bleed process one more time but no change. Really not sure what to do now. I did end up ordering a replacement reservoir that I HOPE will fit, but won't receive until Saturday. I feel like the reservoir I am using from the OEM system is shot but not sure. Appreciate any advice so that I can move past this. While I wait for the new reservoir, I might grab some new hose and swap the return line to get rid of the filter for now as well if I can't figure this out.


Milky fluid in reservoir after hearing screeching noise.

 

Remove the power steering reservoir and back flush it.

 

 

Everything seems to be running smoothly now. Not sure if I was patient enough through the bleed process because I just kept repeating the process about 5 more times and eventually the whine subsided and I wasn't seeing the change in fluid anymore. Took it out for a drive last night and again this morning and all seems to be alright. I'll probably hold on to the new reservoir for a while just in case something happens.

I also found a pretty detailed write up from a TSB on a Chevrolet (not sure about make/year) that outlines the power steering flush and bleed process better than others. It's not specific to the H3 but steps were nearly identical, just a more detailed outline.

FLUSHING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM

1. RAISE THE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE OFF THE GROUND UNTIL THE WHEELS ARE FREE TO TURN.
2. REMOVE THE FLUID RETURN LINE AT THE PUMP RESERVOIR INLET CONNECTOR.
3. PLUG THE INLET CONNECTOR PORT ON THE PUMP RESERVOIR.
4. POSITION THE FLUID RETURN LINE TOWARD A LARGE CONTAINER IN ORDER TO CATCH THE DRAINING FLUID.
5. WHILE A SECOND PERSON FILLS THE RESERVOIR WITH NEW LOW TEMPERATURE CLIMATE SERVICE FLUID, START AND RUN THE ENGINE AT IDLE.
6. TURN THE STEERING WHEEL FROM STOP TO STOP.
   
   NOTICE: DO NOT HOLD THE WHEEL AGAINST STOPS WHILE FLUSHING THE SYSTEM. HOLDING STEERING WHEEL AGAINST WHEEL STOPS WILL CAUSE HIGH SYSTEM PRESSURE, OVERHEATING, AND DAMAGE TO THE PUMP AND/OR GEAR.
   
7. CONTINUE DRAINING UNTIL ALL OF THE OLD FLUID IS CLEARED FROM THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM. ADDITION OF APPROXIMATELY ONE QUART OF NEW FLUID WILL BE REQUIRED TO FLUSH SYSTEM.
8. UNPLUG PUMP RESERVOIR INLET AND RECONNECT RETURN LINE.
9. TURN ENGINE OFF, AND FILL RESERVOIR TO THE "FULL COLD" MARK.
10. CONTINUE WITH FOLLOWING PROCEDURE "BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM."

BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM

AFTER REPLACING THE FLUID OR SERVICING THE POWER STEERING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM, YOU MUST BLEED AIR FROM THE SYSTEM. AIR IN THE SYSTEM PREVENTS AN ACCURATE FLUID LEVEL READING, CAUSES PUMP CAVITATION NOISE AND OVER TIME COULD DAMAGE THE PUMP. TO BLEED THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM PROCEED AS FOLLOWS:

1. BEGIN WITH THE ENGINE OFF, FRONT WHEELS OFF THE GROUND, AND WHEELS TURNED ALL THE WAY TO THE LEFT.
2. ADD LOW TEMPERATURE CLIMATE SERVICE FLUID TO THE "FULL COLD" MARK ON THE FLUID LEVEL INDICATOR.
3. BLEED THE SYSTEM BY TURNING THE WHEELS FROM SIDE TO SIDE WITHOUT HITTING STOPS.
   
   IMPORTANT: THIS MAY REQUIRE TURNING THE WHEELS FROM SIDE TO SIDE TWENTY TIMES. ON SYSTEMS WITH LONG RETURN LINES OR FLUID COOLERS, TURNING STEERING WHEEL LOCK-TO-LOCK FORTY TIMES MAY BE REQUIRED. KEEP THE FLUID LEVEL AT THE "FULL COLD" MARK. FLUID WITH AIR IN IT HAS A LIGHT TAN APPEARANCE. THIS AIR MUST BE ELIMINATED FROM THE FLUID BEFORE NORMAL STEERING ACTION CAN BE OBTAINED.
   
4. START THE ENGINE. WITH THE ENGINE IDLING, RECHECK THE FLUID LEVEL. IF NECESSARY, ADD FLUID TO BRING THE LEVEL TO THE "FULL COLD" MARK.
5. RETURN THE WHEELS TO THE CENTER POSITION. LOWER FRONT WHEELS TO THE GROUND. CONTINUE RUNNING THE ENGINE FOR TWO OR THREE MINUTES.
6. TEST THE VEHICLE TO BE SURE THE STEERING FUNCTIONS NORMALLY AND IS FREE FROM NOISE.

 

I'm just wondering how the Cardone PS pump is holding up. I am trying to replace mine and the aftermarket PS pumps are failing so just wonder if I should try a Cardona and see if it's any better.

 

Did you completely flush the PS system prior to installing the new PS pump? If not, then you are just introducing the contaminated PS fluid to the new pump. Contaminated fluid KILLS PS pumps pretty darn fast.
Also, do you have aftermarket wheels or larger than stock tires?
Did you locate a NEW PS pump AND reservoir or pump w/old reservoir? If the old reservoir leaks, the pump will run dry and kill it QUICK!

 

Yes, they have been flushing it before they installed both the new pumps. Yes, I have had large tires and aftermarket wheels on my Hummer for the last 8 years.

 

Sorry, just saw your question about the reservoir. They are reusing the old reservoir as new ones are not available either. Supposedly the reservoir is not leaking but I am still trying to find a PS pump that won't fail upon installation.