Hello Folks,

I am considering the purchase of a 2006 H3 with Luxury Pkg and 69k miles. It appears to be in good condition but some issues have come up in just the last few days:

• Passlock system prevented the H3 form starting. Owner paid $624 to get it fixed - replaced ignition key switch and housing.
• Leak - assumed in sunroof (maintenance records show this occurred in 2010 as well).
• BCM had water damage from leak in sunroof.
• Keyless entry also impacted by water damage.

The dealer quoted $525 to replace the BCM and $125 for a leak test. Not clear what it will cost to fix the leak.

My main concern is with the potential issue with valve seats. The VIN is in the range that could be impacted. The dealer indicated there was a check engine light with a P0300 code. The problem was apparently caused by a failed oxygen sensor and resolved with new O2 sensor and spark plugs. The dealer indicated that the valve seat issue typically occurs around 20k-30k miles and they rarely see it occur with this many miles (69k). If there is currently no code thrown for a misfire, is it a waste of money to have a compression leak test performed ($135)?

I was fortunate enough to get the maintenance records back to 2010 - there was additional maintenance performed eg. thermostat, front brakes, alignment, replaced right front diff mount bushing and bracket. Recommend service that has NOT been performed includes: Transfer Input/output seals, Rear brakes w/ resurface, Transmission Flush.

The asking price is below book but given the recent issues and the overall cost of repairs since 2010, I am starting to wonder if I really want to own a GM product. Struggling to come up with a specific question here. Guess I'm looking for input on what to expect for cost of ownership as well as specific advice on the potential valve seat issue.

Looking forward to some discussion....

Thanks in advance....

 

Once you're past and sure of the main issues, the H3 is great to own.
Transfer case fork will give you problems if its still the original plastic one.( change to metal). and the issue with the cylinder head.. Beyond this, its a tough car ...and you're driving a Hummer which in itself is something

 

This might be a dumb and obvious question on my part but why not just move on to a different Hummer instead of taking a chance on this one? I realize that the asking price might be below many others out there but that is quite the laundry list of items that you have provided.

For me, if I was the one doing the purchasing, I would take a pass on this one and move on to another Hummer that has a better repair record. The one you are looking at could just be a bad apple in the bunch.

There are plenty of other Hummers out there if you want to buy one. I wouldn't be afraid of owning a Hummer because for the most part, I would have to say they are above average in reliability.

 

Thanks for the reply. This introduces yet another issue I was not aware of (shift fork). I have collected the following list of known and potential issues along with estimates for each:

In searching the forums on the Passlock issue, I stumbled upon a number of known/common issues with the 2006 H3:

• early H3 valve intake seats (head problem) - $4000 if problem occurs
  • A P0300 system code is thrown for this issue which you recently had. New plugs seem to have resolved the issue but the H3 has only been driven 328 miles since the plugs were replaced. Concern is the issue could resurface.
• shift fork (plastic) - $1000 if problem occurs

Also in reviewing the maintenance records, I see the following recommended service that has not been done:

• Transfer Input/Output seals ($460)
• Rear Brakes/Resurface ($583)
• Transmission Flush ($229)

Other current issues include:

• Replace 2 rear tires ($500)
• Replace BCM module ($525) - the electronic module was exposed to water...water and electronics don't mix! The BCM is the BRAIN of the electrical system.
• Fix Leak (Leak test $125 / fix leak ??)

Do these prices seems inflated? Most came directly form the local Cadillac dealer. The list continues to grow as does my enthusiasm for purchasing this vehicle. Looking for some insight to steer me in one direction or the other....

Thanks in advance,
LifeIsGood

 

@stevek813 - in short, the price and low mileage is what is keeping me in the game here. Cannot find anything with close mileage within $5000+. As the list of issues grows, so does my enthusiasm.....

 

Correction on my last two posts, my enthusiasm is DROPPING as the list of issues grows.....details, details....

 

save yourself $125 for a leak test and go through a car wash a coupe times and do a good inspection, if you get it.

 

Well i would say tell them to get another h3 there for you. I bought one and thought it was a good deal and put new tires on. That was all was known to be needed.... Then i had to do the evap vent selinoid and the lower ball joints.... Then all new brakes.. And hunner rack sleeve... And now bearings and maybe shocks and possibly something else and a new battery.....
Needless to say.... DON'T BUY A MONEY PIT!!!! some of the stuff you could fix yourself especially sunroof drains, but buying something with existing problems isn't a good idea. And cadilac dealer is gonna cost $$$$$ to fix almost anything. But i would say ok prices for a dealer for sure.

 

Oh yea.. Mine has 168 000 km on it too..... :-)

 

My recommendation would be to pass on that one unless you know for certain if a) the head doesn't fall in the affected VIN range, or b) has already been replaced under warranty.

The sunroof leak is a quick 20-30 minute fix. You can find the details in several threads here.

As far as some other items on your list:

- I wouldn't worry about Transfer case seals unless they are actually leaking. They aren't a known problem on the H3.

-The rear brakes are a simple DIY job. You can get new pads for $50 or so and unless the rotors are grooved or warped, I wouldn't have them resurfaced. You can buy new rotors for $50-70 dollars a pair. Total rear brake job including new pads and rotors= $100-$130 bucks.

-The transmission flush can also be done yourself in your driveway using the cooling line going to the radiator as the drain. The only cost involved is new tranny fluid. I believe there is a thread or two on this forum outlining the procedure. If this is outside your ability, many lube shops will perform a tranny flush for much less than the dealer price.