Hey everyone new to the forum and just bought a 07 h3 off a auction and its a cherry for the year but its got a issue. The h3 will not move while in gear and rolls in park. It will slightly lunge like the transmission is rotating internally but if you go from drive or rev to park you can hear the park paw clicking like output shaft is rotating. only way to prevent is to n to park. trans fluid needs flushed but is filled to line and not burnt smelling. Also it the car will roll if i push it while in park as well. all the 4wd lights work when pushed and no codes or error messages on dash. After some research it seems to be the plastic fork issue in the t-case but just wanted to know if i should check some other areas. plan to pull and swap the fork tom plus do a trans flush as well. Have plans to turn into a landover build for me and kids out of it.

thanks

 

Well the plastic fork was worn and now i only have 4h locked. Could it be the transfer case motor since it seems to be the original? Thinking it might be weak.

 

You say the plastic fork was worn - did you take apart the transfer case?

Everything you described tells me the transfer case is staying or barely staying in neutral. If you have the t-case in neutral and shift into drive, you will absolutely hear the parking pawl when shifting back into park, and there is nothing to stop the transmission from spinning. What worries me is you can feel the truck "lunge" when in drive. Either the locking collar is close enough to just touch and transfer some power, or there is something else very very wrong (broken chain, stripped gears, etc.)

I doubt this is the motor. Get it apart and take a look. There are very detailed manuals on these cases (the whole truck for that matter).

 

If it has a worn out T Case plastic fork the T Case may be stuck in neutral as was said. No mention of MILES on the H3. Your Auto Trans could be toast (worn out because of poor maintenance, too much towing, or beyond its expected miles life) and the seller/prior owner replaced the AT Fluid hoping that would make it all better.

If you get the T Case in 4H Lock then it will move and should not be driven on hard dry surfaces, unless the AT is shot and needs a rebuild, then you get what you got.

 

update!!
well front diff was smoked. Like disco party inside. pulled the drain plug and nothing drained then stuck mag in it and came back with chunks. A used one is on the way now. I plan to inspect it and freshen and replace bushings before i put it back in. did service the AT and didn't see anything that would cause concern in the pan. i do have some play in the steering well and plan to check that out and if i need to get in and replace the rack figured it might be easier with the dif out.

 

Sorry to hear that your front differential gave out.

I just went through the process of removing my front diff then reinstalling it after a rebuild. DM me if you have any questions.

 

well she was toothless. the used unit i installed was in good shape. removed cover and inspected it and cleaned . Also replaced the axle seals just incase and checked the needle bearings which were fine. Everything drive train wise works now. also ended up replacing the top steering shaft due to some pretty dangerous steering wheel play while i had the tire off that side. the steering shaft was the easiest of the these tasks. Now the exhaust manifold and the rear muffler need replaced. getting closer.

 

yuck, that (old) differential looks nasty!!! Gross stuff! Glad you got it replaced and that the drivetrain is sound for you!

Is it back on the road, or do you still have some more work to do first?

 

its back on the road and took it on some of the trails around the farm real quick and tried all the awd buttons with no drivetrain issues. i do have a issue with the driver window not wanting to roll up but all the others work fine at there switch and at the master switch also the lock switch doesn't work on either door. From reading sounds like when i disconnected the battery for the airbag on the steering wheel since i removed it might have caused issues. plan to remove the door and check the connector since that a possible issue as well as a discounting the battery and letting it sit a bit. all was working well prior to the battery being disconnected.

 

Remain calm, your door window issue happens when the battery is disconnected, it can fix itself after 5-10 ignition cycles. Of, disconnect the battery in the correct order: Neg - first, then Pos. +. Wait a few minutes, connect the Pos. + first and then the Neg. -.