Hi so basically I’ve tried everything most of the threads have said to do about this problem so I need help with an actual fix . Here’s what my h3 is doing . My driver side window doesn’t move anymore and none of my locks work with the fob I have to manually lock it but all the other windows go up and down and not only that BUT has anybody else had both the driver and passenger side SEATS won’t move now but the heat is working but the seats won’t move at all . I had to put a gently used battery in it since my original battery was dead and the problem I’m having happened before I replaced the battery.
ive tried EVERYTHING I know for sure it’s got to be a wiring problem I’ve checked each thing in the switch to see what voltage they were each at but I’m not sure exactly what they are supposed to be at but they were all reading around 2 or 3 volts (not my battery but the driver side door switch that controls the windows and locks ) so I tested each little thing in the switch and they all read 2 or 3 volts. I can’t get into the rear hatch either . I’ve disconnected the battery and tried reconnecting it and doing that silly thing where they said to unplug the switch and then put your key in etc etc etc and it worked ONCE and after that my driver side window started just randomly working and then randomly not working but now it’s stuck down and it’s cold out side and it’s not moving anymore . Please only respond if you actually can help me , I live in my car right now and it’s winter and it’s cold as hell with my window stuck down and I can’t even move my stupid seats to be able to sleep comfortably so please don’t waste my time with lies and feeding people wrong info please. 🙏 and if anybody knows which wire exactly meaning the color it is and the color that it will turn into by the fuse box that would be awesome unless it could be any wire ? Sorry I’m not too good with electrical problems so sorry if this is hard to understand . But I’m gonna hook it up to All Data and maybe that will give me some answers but I can’t do that for a few more days so maybe someone can help me before than?
thank you for reading and hopefully responding
Oh and yes before anyone says replace the switch I did I bought a new one and it didn’t do anything just a fyi

 

If you are still trying to use the OEM Battery Terminal Connectors, you should replace those with a quality aftermarket set like Stingers or your favorite brand. Once you establish a proper connection to the battery. let us know how it goes.

 

I've taken my time to read your thread. So I won't waste it or yours. The repair is going to take a service manual, dvm, oscilloscope, test light, etc.
your going to need to know which circuit and sub components feed power and at what current/voltage.
if you've replaced the switch (master drivers door) and replaced battery with brand new components doc's suggested first step may, just may help.

 

Also, check the two main ground lugs. They are located nearest the ABS area and behind the air box. They are a main junction for all grounds. Remove them soak the junction in white distilled vinegar or use electronics cleaner. Clean bolt and associated area with wire brush. Reinstall.

 

Ive cleaned the battery terminals , but I’ll try all the stuff you guys are recommending. And keep you updated, I’m going to work on it today so fingers crossed I can fix it . I’m hoping it might just be a wire that’s bad and then I can cut that part out and fix it but it sounds like a lot of people have this problem. Also why are both my front seats not working like they aren’t sliding back or forth but the heat works but I can’t move either of my seats this started shortly after this problem started. Does nobody have a straight answer that has 100% worked or could it be a few different things and some things have worked for others and not some people ? It’s very frustrating but thank u for the help I’ll keep you updated if it works today . I’ll post exactly what I did if it does work .

 

usually there are no straight forward fixes when it comes to finding bad wires. if you tug and a wire breaks then it was bad.

 

It does not matter if the Battery Terminals are clean if your failed OEM clamps cannot make the proper and consistent contact required. The driver window can be related to your battery connection. When you disconnect, you must disconnect the negative first, then the positive. When you reconnect, start with positive and then connect the negative.

The driver window and door lock things often happen when a battery goes dead or is removed and replace not following the proper connection order. It can fix itself after several ignition cycles, but ONLY if the Battery is properly connected with 100% functioning Battery Terminal Connectors.

Your seats, something else. Do you have a sunroof? If so, has the passenger side floor been wet? If so, fix the clogged sunroof drains and read up on how the BCM gets wet and corrodes its connections to cause a bunch of electrical Gremlins.

 

You can test the seat motors with a simple cordless drill battery and some alligator clip/wire thingys lol!
Just make sure you know which wire and color it is for the motor powering functions. Of course you have to disconnect the seat plug/harness and then feed the motor directly. I would also test for ground in that harness with your dvm while there. That way you can at least rule out the motors and ground.

 

Here is a wiring diagram for the window.
You should try to determine if you have the proper voltage to the window switch. The yellow wire is 12 vdc hot and the black wire is ground. If you dont read 12volts between them, either the yellow or black wire is bad.
You can then check again but use a door hinge as a ground and not the black wire. If you read 12 volts, you have a bad black wire. To double check, you can check for continuity between the black wire and the metal door hinge.