Leveling kit
Leveling kit
I just bought a rough country leveling kit and shackle. Before you tell me that it was a waist of my money. I really just want to know what the difference is between that little small spacer they gave me, to add to the bottom of the torsion bar bolt, and just torquing down my torsion bar with out that spacer?
How does adding that spacer to the bottom of that bolt help?
Thanks
Steve
How does adding that spacer to the bottom of that bolt help?
Thanks
Steve
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,082
From: Boat Town USA MI
It pushes/twists the Torsion Bar Key the distance of the thickness of the spacer from the bolt head. In other words (assume the spacer is at 1/4" thick) if you add the spacer and return the T Bar Bolt to its original stock position, the T Bar Key is twisted an additional 1/4".
The reason it was a waste of $$ is because you could just tighten the T Bar Bolt which pushes/twists the T Bar Key and achieve the exact same end result using no spacer. GM designed the 3 this way, it wasn't some kind of mistake or coincidence.
Return it.
The reason it was a waste of $$ is because you could just tighten the T Bar Bolt which pushes/twists the T Bar Key and achieve the exact same end result using no spacer. GM designed the 3 this way, it wasn't some kind of mistake or coincidence.
Return it.
I know... I know... When I ordered the leveling kit... I was under the impression I was going to get a new torsion bar key with this kit. When all I got in the box was shackles and some spacers. I called them, and they told me that's all Hummer H3's need. They tried to tell me it had to do with geometry... I was like ok... It still wasn't working out right in my head. I even chatted with a professional on the home page. Who told me I could turn it more. I said how's that when the threads on the bolt goes all the way down? No reply of course.
I knew it was too good to be true... As long as the shackles are actually longer than the stock ones I guess it won't be that big of a loss. I paid $60 for them. Shackles actually look beefy and good... We'll see!!!
What a waist... I was hoping someone could see something I was missing and why it was better than torquing it without the spacer.
No such luck!!! :-(
I knew it was too good to be true... As long as the shackles are actually longer than the stock ones I guess it won't be that big of a loss. I paid $60 for them. Shackles actually look beefy and good... We'll see!!!
What a waist... I was hoping someone could see something I was missing and why it was better than torquing it without the spacer.
No such luck!!! :-(
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,356
From: Connecticut
No, you can't do both.
There is a limit to the angles that the front end components (tie rods, half shafts, etc.) can take without damage.
23-1/2" max, measured from hub center to bottom of fender is the generally accepted safe dimension.
There is a limit to the angles that the front end components (tie rods, half shafts, etc.) can take without damage.
23-1/2" max, measured from hub center to bottom of fender is the generally accepted safe dimension.
Actually you can do both... Just not with the kit I got. There is an actual torsion bar key you can get which allows for more height without losing the ride. (which is what I thought I ordered)
The problem with torquing the bolt for your torsion bar key is, what others are saying here, it takes away from the smother stock ride. The torsion bar is your spring... Which works by twisting it instead of the up and down type of spring.
When you begin tightening that bolt it begins to twist that torsion until it begins to lift the front of your vehicle.
So basically the ruff country leveling is a big waist of money if all you want to do is level out the front of your Hummer. They send you a big thick washer to make you feel better about yourself for buying it.
The one thing I will say is that the rear shackle look decent and the quality doesn't look bad... I just haven't replace the old ones yet with the new ones, So I don't know if they are any bigger or not. I will let you know.
The problem with torquing the bolt for your torsion bar key is, what others are saying here, it takes away from the smother stock ride. The torsion bar is your spring... Which works by twisting it instead of the up and down type of spring.
When you begin tightening that bolt it begins to twist that torsion until it begins to lift the front of your vehicle.
So basically the ruff country leveling is a big waist of money if all you want to do is level out the front of your Hummer. They send you a big thick washer to make you feel better about yourself for buying it.
The one thing I will say is that the rear shackle look decent and the quality doesn't look bad... I just haven't replace the old ones yet with the new ones, So I don't know if they are any bigger or not. I will let you know.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,356
From: Connecticut
No, you don't lose downtravel.
There is a hard stop for the upper a-arm that limits down travel.
It is the same point regardless of what you do to the torsion bar.
NO you CANNOT do both.
The max dimension is the MAX dimension period.
It has nothing to do with a smooth ride. It has everything to do with geometry. The CV joints can only handle up to a certain angle and if you exceed those angles you WILL have damage.
The only ways to raise the vehicle beyound the 23-1/2" measurement is a body lift or a full blown suspension lift, which keeps the stock drive train geometry.
There is a hard stop for the upper a-arm that limits down travel.
It is the same point regardless of what you do to the torsion bar.
Actually you can do both... Just not with the kit I got. There is an actual torsion bar key you can get which allows for more height without losing the ride. (which is what I thought I ordered)
The problem with torquing the bolt for your torsion bar key is, what others are saying here, it takes away from the smother stock ride. The torsion bar is your spring... Which works by twisting it instead of the up and down type of spring.
The problem with torquing the bolt for your torsion bar key is, what others are saying here, it takes away from the smother stock ride. The torsion bar is your spring... Which works by twisting it instead of the up and down type of spring.
NO you CANNOT do both.
The max dimension is the MAX dimension period.
It has nothing to do with a smooth ride. It has everything to do with geometry. The CV joints can only handle up to a certain angle and if you exceed those angles you WILL have damage.
The only ways to raise the vehicle beyound the 23-1/2" measurement is a body lift or a full blown suspension lift, which keeps the stock drive train geometry.
Last edited by Bunger; Jan 18, 2013 at 04:57 PM.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 13,082
From: Boat Town USA MI
Actually you can do both... Just not with the kit I got.
There is an actual torsion bar key you can get which allows for more height without losing the ride. (which is what I thought I ordered)
Incorrect. The stock key does the same thing as any re-indexed key, as Bunger said, the maximum height of 23.5-6" is the max, no matter what T Bar Key you are using. All you are doing is changing the position of the T Bar.
The problem with torquing the bolt for your torsion bar key is, what others are saying here, it takes away from the smother stock ride. The torsion bar is your spring... Which works by twisting it instead of the up and down type of spring.
Changing the position of the T Bar, does NOT change its spring rate therefore your "ride" does not change.
When you begin tightening that bolt it begins to twist that torsion until it begins to lift the front of your vehicle.
Exactly, that is why you do not need a spacer, re-indexed key or leveling kit.
There is an actual torsion bar key you can get which allows for more height without losing the ride. (which is what I thought I ordered)
Incorrect. The stock key does the same thing as any re-indexed key, as Bunger said, the maximum height of 23.5-6" is the max, no matter what T Bar Key you are using. All you are doing is changing the position of the T Bar.
The problem with torquing the bolt for your torsion bar key is, what others are saying here, it takes away from the smother stock ride. The torsion bar is your spring... Which works by twisting it instead of the up and down type of spring.
Changing the position of the T Bar, does NOT change its spring rate therefore your "ride" does not change.
When you begin tightening that bolt it begins to twist that torsion until it begins to lift the front of your vehicle.
Exactly, that is why you do not need a spacer, re-indexed key or leveling kit.
The leveling kit stuff comes from other IFS vehicles that did not have the ability to adjust front ride height already built in. Other trucks may require a re-indexed T Bar Key, the H3 does not.