Guys I'm sure this is an old topic but I need help. I'm wanting to level my H3. The question is....do I need a leveling kit or not?? I was looking at the rough country leveling kit it says you get 2.5-3" do u get that also with just cranking the torsion bars?? Also do u need the spacers for the shocks? What about the rear shackles?? Is it stiffer ride if you don't go with a kit?? Thanks guys

 

If you use the search function you will find enough threads on this to keep you reading for a week.

 

and we're off

 

NO YOU DO NOT NEED any LEVELING KIT!!!!

Waste of $$. If you want to **** away $$, please LMK and I will PM you my address and you can send as much $$ as often as you want.

Adjusting the T Bars for lift (with or without a "leveling kit") has NOTHING to do with changing a fixed spring rate.


SEARCH this topic.

 

Ok guys so I've read all some of the post here and decided not to get the leveling kit. I saw an H3 with a leveling kit and it looked huge…the front just looked totally different. will it happen also without the leveling kit? I know the kit comes with the back shackles also so i don't know if it brings both the front and back higher. they claim 2.5" and here most people say that by doing it without the kit they got about 1.5"
I know this is all old questions and some of you guys are tired of answering but…THANKS for all that do help.

 

So you say you have read your homework assignment.

Quiz time.

What is the maximum height that the front of an H3/T can be set at when measuring from the fender lip to hub center before you start tearing chit up? Answer:
A) 24"
B) 23.5"
C) 23"
D) Depends upon the size of my tires
E) None of the above

Does the above maximum amount change above because you pissed away $$ for a leveling kit?
Answer:
A) Yes
B) NO

After adjusting the T Bars to obtain your desired lift (without exceeding the maximum) do I need to get an alignment?
Answer:
A) Yes
B) NO

 

23.5
No
Yes
??????
But I did read multiple saying no more than 24"

 

Very good grasshopper 100% right.

Early on it was thought 24" was OK but it was soon found to be too high and 23-1/2" became the widely accepted standard.

In my opinion the tires you put on a H3 make more of an impression on how you say "looking huge" than the actual leveling of the vehicle.

Put on some wide 33" or 35" aggressive AT's or MT's and you get the look.
Stay with stock 32's/33's or going with mild AT tires, well you're not going to look "huge".

Here's mine with just a T-bar adjustment & 33" (285/75/16) Goodyear Duratracs.




But I wanted more, so 1" body lift & 35" (315/75/16) Duratracs.

 

Ok this is confusing, I just went to a shop here in town. The Guy went under and said "there's no way to go...the bolt is bottomed out already..."I said but I've never done anything to it. We measured from the H to the fender and it's at 21" I told him yeah see that's how it comes. He said I can try and he did and it went up to almost 22 and he said that's it....????? What's the deal here? He said there's no more thread to go in. I went down and saw a big screw going in!! Now to lift it are you puting that screw in or is it coming out?? Help either he is right or he has no idea what he's talking about. He said that's why you need and they make those kits.

 

There are a lot of vehicles that need leveling kits. H3's are not one of them.

Turning the bolts clockwise (like you were tightening them) raises the front of the vehicle.
The bolt doesn't move, the keys do.

Did he do this with the tires on the ground? If he did it's really hard to turn those bolts.
Most people at least jack up the front at the crossmember to get both tires off the ground.