Intermediate Steering Shaft falling apart.
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 115
ACCLR8N: My car is still at my mechanic for trans rebuild, when I will get it back, will investigate.
As "TAINTER" and "Doc" mentioned, it is a flange bolt, whatever I mentioned previously was just a guess looking at diagrams.
It should have plastic bushing.
All this is new to me, first car to really dig into myself.
As "TAINTER" and "Doc" mentioned, it is a flange bolt, whatever I mentioned previously was just a guess looking at diagrams.
It should have plastic bushing.
All this is new to me, first car to really dig into myself.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,126
From: SE Michigan
LatvjuAvs please let me know when you get yours apart if it had a special shoulder bolt or the plastic bushing.
Tainter what is your picture from? It doesn't look like any portion of my H3T
Tainter what is your picture from? It doesn't look like any portion of my H3T
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,126
From: SE Michigan
[QUOTE=ACCLR8N;366814]FYI: A flange bolt is designed to approximate a bolt and washer as plants can't deal with loose washers on the assembly line. They are not better than washers.[/QUOTE
Sorry, your statement above is not at all true. Nut and washer is not as efficient, effective nor as strong. This is just 1 of many articles from "the google" that explains it.
"Many OEMs specify flanged headed fasteners for a number of reasons. Using a replacement fastener not of the same type, strength and finish as that originally specified will lead to potentially serious problems since the torque-tension characteristics will be affected. That is, the preload generated by the tightening torque may be insufficient to prevent the joint or the bolt failing.
Flanged headed nuts and bolts have been developed to eliminate the deficiencies that have been found with the use of washers.
Standard washers are typically softer than the nuts and bolts that they are used with and can often plastically deform under the high compressive stress that they must sustain. For higher strength fasteners, this can lead to the washer dishing and indenting resulting in the clamp force being reduced significantly. An example of such a washer is shown in figure 3. Flange headed nuts and bolts do not suffer from this effect since the washer face is as strong as the bolt/nut itself.
It is not unusual for short grip length joints, with several interfaces, to experience a bolt tension reduction of up to 50%. A joint that may perform satisfactorily when flanged nuts and bolts are used may suffer problems when washers are inserted into the joint. Such a change can invalidate all the calculations and testing pertaining to the joint completed by the manufacturer...."
Sorry, your statement above is not at all true. Nut and washer is not as efficient, effective nor as strong. This is just 1 of many articles from "the google" that explains it.
"Many OEMs specify flanged headed fasteners for a number of reasons. Using a replacement fastener not of the same type, strength and finish as that originally specified will lead to potentially serious problems since the torque-tension characteristics will be affected. That is, the preload generated by the tightening torque may be insufficient to prevent the joint or the bolt failing.
Flanged headed nuts and bolts have been developed to eliminate the deficiencies that have been found with the use of washers.
Standard washers are typically softer than the nuts and bolts that they are used with and can often plastically deform under the high compressive stress that they must sustain. For higher strength fasteners, this can lead to the washer dishing and indenting resulting in the clamp force being reduced significantly. An example of such a washer is shown in figure 3. Flange headed nuts and bolts do not suffer from this effect since the washer face is as strong as the bolt/nut itself.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 9,003
From: C-Town
"south of 30$"?
"mechanic called a day"?
"I am sitting home with 300$ worth of parts"?
Your steering shafts are rotted, your mechanic must have overcharged you on the trans rebuild, to only charge $30 to replace the joint, which is more labor, than swapping the shafts, called a day, because your mechanic doesn't drive it, and you will have new parts sitting at home, when you lose your steering, and total the H3. WTF?
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 115
Oh hi, good morning.
Clarification if any interest.
I ordered parts for replacing steering shaft that costs total around 300$ to ship here.
Meanwhile car is in shop for transmission rebuild, as you said, massively overcharged
I mentioned mechanic that I have parts coming and he is like, "send them back, no need, change u-joint and that is it".
I can't send back parts that are under way, so I said ok, change u-joint and he did.
Parts now are just as spares.
Shaft has surface rust, but joint is perfect, will monitor it and see how it hold up.
Clarification if any interest.
I ordered parts for replacing steering shaft that costs total around 300$ to ship here.
Meanwhile car is in shop for transmission rebuild, as you said, massively overcharged
I mentioned mechanic that I have parts coming and he is like, "send them back, no need, change u-joint and that is it".
I can't send back parts that are under way, so I said ok, change u-joint and he did.
Parts now are just as spares.
Shaft has surface rust, but joint is perfect, will monitor it and see how it hold up.