Interior lights stuck on
Hey all, found one older post on this but had a resolution that doesn't apply to me. Had a dead battery last week but didn't think much of it (have a parasitic draw from the remote starter that I'm still trying to get to the bottom of). Charged it up and didn't think anything more of it until last night when I noticed the dome lights were on while I was driving around town. While trying to get to the bottom of it I noticed that the under dash lights are constantly on as well. Before I start buying parts wanted to get everybody's opinion.
Notes:
- Lights stay on constantly while engine is on, for 20 minutes after turning it off and closing all doors (when the BCM shuts things down)
- No "door open" message on the dash when driving, so it doesn't seem to think that a door is open
- Made sure the dimmer switch isn't all the way up on the headlight control module. Dimming function works properly for gauges even though interior lights stay on
- The interior lights off master switch on the headlight control module doesn't do anything when pressed
- Took out all door switches and tested continuity, all seem to be working fine. If one was faulty you'd think I'd get a door ajar warning on the dash
- Unsure if I can test wiring for the switches easily. If something disconnected then the lights would never come on, rather than always on (unless the power rubbed through and is grounding its self)
- Took out the headlight switch and took it apart. Nothing seems fishy in there but who knows if something is grounding out or not.
Possible culprits:
- Headlight control module thinks that the dimmer switch is all the way at the top when it's not (though you'd think the dimmer function wouldn't work anymore in that case)
- Remote starter module doing something to the BCM to keep it thinking an unlock is constantly coming from the key fob? Because the remote start is causing so many problems with draining for me already I wonder if it's somehow related, but seems like a stretch
- BCM has problems and is keeping the lights on
Anybody else have any ideas?
Notes:
- Lights stay on constantly while engine is on, for 20 minutes after turning it off and closing all doors (when the BCM shuts things down)
- No "door open" message on the dash when driving, so it doesn't seem to think that a door is open
- Made sure the dimmer switch isn't all the way up on the headlight control module. Dimming function works properly for gauges even though interior lights stay on
- The interior lights off master switch on the headlight control module doesn't do anything when pressed
- Took out all door switches and tested continuity, all seem to be working fine. If one was faulty you'd think I'd get a door ajar warning on the dash
- Unsure if I can test wiring for the switches easily. If something disconnected then the lights would never come on, rather than always on (unless the power rubbed through and is grounding its self)
- Took out the headlight switch and took it apart. Nothing seems fishy in there but who knows if something is grounding out or not.
Possible culprits:
- Headlight control module thinks that the dimmer switch is all the way at the top when it's not (though you'd think the dimmer function wouldn't work anymore in that case)
- Remote starter module doing something to the BCM to keep it thinking an unlock is constantly coming from the key fob? Because the remote start is causing so many problems with draining for me already I wonder if it's somehow related, but seems like a stretch
- BCM has problems and is keeping the lights on
Anybody else have any ideas?
Somebody moderated this post so that it was not visible to members. Have no idea who or why, unless you have been spamming other boards and you were flagged???
Year and model would be helpful with any question, as would recent work or modifications done before your problems started.
Anyways, if possible I would talk to the people that installed the remote start, there have been many people with issues caused by that and each is different because we have no idea what they did when the attempted their install.
Next, do you have a sunroof? If so, has your passenger floor ever been wet?
Year and model would be helpful with any question, as would recent work or modifications done before your problems started.
Anyways, if possible I would talk to the people that installed the remote start, there have been many people with issues caused by that and each is different because we have no idea what they did when the attempted their install.
Next, do you have a sunroof? If so, has your passenger floor ever been wet?
Thanks. I've been around here the last year but any other posts I've made also seem to have gotten moderated as well (and now I don't remember what they were about). Far as I know my only comment that went through was on roof rack keys a year ago, so I can't see that having upset anybody.
Forgot to put the specifics into the first post, oops. 2006 H3, luxury package. Yes it has a sunroof. The passenger side tube has been partially plugged in the past. I've had damp carpets on that side so it's certainly possible that the BCM got wet. I cleared the tubes last fall and haven't had any water issues since then so it seems strange that it might choose now to act up in this way.
No recent repairs or work completed, though I had the knee bolster panel out for a while when doing a cursory look at the remote starter. I noticed the problem with the lights after charging the battery back up earlier in the week. Hard to say if the battery died because the lights have been an issue for a while and I haven't noticed, or if the stone dead to fully charged change caused the issues. Come to think of it there was one time a few months ago where the wife was driving and I noticed the dome lights on. When I next drove they weren't on so I chalked it up to her not closing a door or something, but maybe it's been a repeated problem that I rarely notice.
I wouldn't be surprised if the remote starter had something to do with this (or the BCM being directed by it) and have been meaning to have it removed, I was just hoping to isolate and fix this first so that I can keep things straight during the removal.
Forgot to put the specifics into the first post, oops. 2006 H3, luxury package. Yes it has a sunroof. The passenger side tube has been partially plugged in the past. I've had damp carpets on that side so it's certainly possible that the BCM got wet. I cleared the tubes last fall and haven't had any water issues since then so it seems strange that it might choose now to act up in this way.
No recent repairs or work completed, though I had the knee bolster panel out for a while when doing a cursory look at the remote starter. I noticed the problem with the lights after charging the battery back up earlier in the week. Hard to say if the battery died because the lights have been an issue for a while and I haven't noticed, or if the stone dead to fully charged change caused the issues. Come to think of it there was one time a few months ago where the wife was driving and I noticed the dome lights on. When I next drove they weren't on so I chalked it up to her not closing a door or something, but maybe it's been a repeated problem that I rarely notice.
I wouldn't be surprised if the remote starter had something to do with this (or the BCM being directed by it) and have been meaning to have it removed, I was just hoping to isolate and fix this first so that I can keep things straight during the removal.
BCMs do not like water, and shorts can happen immediately or any time after water intrusion.
Still using the OEM crappy Azzed Battery Terminal Connectors???? Replacing those with a quality aftermarket set is the first mod that should be done to every H3.
Still using the OEM crappy Azzed Battery Terminal Connectors???? Replacing those with a quality aftermarket set is the first mod that should be done to every H3.
I have traced numerous electrical issues back to aftermarket accessories over the years. The best thing for you to do is look at the wires & connections that they tapped into for the remote starter <+/-Loose connection/short> or you can disconnect the remote module completely and properly secure the oem wires. GL
https://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/up...ting-1-4-1.pdf
https://schwarttzy.com/wp-content/up...ting-1-4-1.pdf
I'll try to spend some more time on diagnosis this weekend. Don't really want to take it to the shop for them to figure out but at this point that might be less hassle.
Did some Canyon / Colorado reading and found this thread with the exact same symptoms:
https://www.355nation.net/forum/elec...-turn-off.html
Unfortunately there was never a resolution posted so I don't know where it ended up but it gives me some diagnostic options. I'm not convinced at his assessment that the BCM was ok because it turns everything off after 20 minutes. That portion could still be working whereas something controlling the lights might be toast. Toward the end of the thread they allude to some ignition switch issues being a possibility too. I've had the odd passlock issue which I've always attributed to the starter, but maybe it's all tied to the same battery drain / BCM interference?
Did some Canyon / Colorado reading and found this thread with the exact same symptoms:
https://www.355nation.net/forum/elec...-turn-off.html
Unfortunately there was never a resolution posted so I don't know where it ended up but it gives me some diagnostic options. I'm not convinced at his assessment that the BCM was ok because it turns everything off after 20 minutes. That portion could still be working whereas something controlling the lights might be toast. Toward the end of the thread they allude to some ignition switch issues being a possibility too. I've had the odd passlock issue which I've always attributed to the starter, but maybe it's all tied to the same battery drain / BCM interference?
You have methodically checked to make sure it is not one of the door pin switches, I assume.
If not the 5 door pin switches (rear hatch is usually the culprit) then remove remote start AND any other aftermarket item that would be wired to any light circuit.
If not the 5 door pin switches (rear hatch is usually the culprit) then remove remote start AND any other aftermarket item that would be wired to any light circuit.
I've checked all 5 switches, paying particular attention to the driver's door (gets used most often) and tailgate because it seems to fail most often but the switches all test out fine. Not sure how to go about testing the wiring though because with the switch unplugged the circuit is broken so I shouldn't get any signal, right?
Took off the knee panel below the steering wheel last night as well as the cover in front of the BCM. It looks like there used to be some accessories installed that were removed before I owned it. There are three wire taps on BCM lines, though the one on the black wire seems to be the only thing connected to anything else right now. Looks like remnants of stereo wires or possibly trail lights all over under there. I suppose the thing to do is to strip everything out (or pay someone to do it since I seem to be short on time lately) and hope there was a short somewhere causing the issue rather than the BCM. If I need a new BCM after all that it's going to get expensive fast. Much more expensive than just unplugging the lights...
Took off the knee panel below the steering wheel last night as well as the cover in front of the BCM. It looks like there used to be some accessories installed that were removed before I owned it. There are three wire taps on BCM lines, though the one on the black wire seems to be the only thing connected to anything else right now. Looks like remnants of stereo wires or possibly trail lights all over under there. I suppose the thing to do is to strip everything out (or pay someone to do it since I seem to be short on time lately) and hope there was a short somewhere causing the issue rather than the BCM. If I need a new BCM after all that it's going to get expensive fast. Much more expensive than just unplugging the lights...


