It appears I have a pinion bearing on my 07 hummer H3x with 156,000 miles. Noise is getting worse but only makes a noise while accelerating, no noise while coasting? there is a little play in the drive shaft at the pinioning bearing. Would anyone know if I can remove the front drive shaft and still drive? Looking for a little time before in figure out whats next. Dealer wants $1,300 to start. Second question, Can I remove the entire front axle and still drive the truck?? Save about $600 if I brought the axle to the dealer. Just put $1,400 in shocks, wheel bearing, ball joints, half shafts, tie rod end and wiper motor. Not sure how much more $ I want to invest, Live in NY with lot of salt on the roads and rust is starting to take its toll.

 

1. NEVER, go to a dealership if your rig is not in for warranty work.
2. Find a local ring and pinion shop (much cheaper than a Stealership) and have them drive/look at it. Get an estimate on repair "IN" the rig & "OUT" of the rig.
3. Decide if your time is worth the difference in the above estimate.
4. You have an aluminum front differential in your H3X. Case deflection is a known issue. See #5 if you want a more robust front differential.
5. If you plan on wheeling it find a donor cast iron front differential from an 08-10 Alpha (non offroad package) and have that built with 4.56 gears. If you want to wheel it hard throw in an Eaton Elocker.

PS: Love that color. I think you may have their old rig. T

he previous owner Fawkin' Brian and his wife where good people and fun to wheel with. They started off with a plane Jane H3X (the only H3 offered in that color) and built it form there.

 

If you "remove the front axle" meaning front drive, shaft you would still be turning the front diff and half shafts.

Got no idea anyone would go the all the work of pulling the front drive shaft, half shafts and front diff to then run exposed inner hubs road salt when you could have just swapped out a donor I5 front diff while you were in there? Rebuild the current front diff later, or sell it to somebody that will.

You could look for a 2009 or 10 Adventure donor front diff, cast iron and would have a locker already installed with the I5 4:56 gears. Direct bolt in. You would have to run a switched wire to the locker and could even swap out your T Case Control switch panel to do that.

 

Off topic, but!
Is this aluminum and iron front axle side by side?
Is this how I can identify one if I accidentally end up in a junkyard with Alpha H3? (1/1000000 chance).

Image stolen from internet.

Thanks!

 

NOPE, the diff on the right is a Custom made Dana 44.

Cast iron will be black like cast iron, Same cover, same mounting points as your aluminum diff. Same dimensions too.

 

Thanks!
Same "ribs" also?
Just color black? If someone paints over aluminum one and sell off as cast iron?
Should check weight.
I know, sounds like wild west, but welcome to eastern Europe

 

This is a photo of a cast iron diff from our T when I was rebuilding the entire front end.

 

Thanks!
That makes all the difference, fairly easy to spot now.

 

OK lol! i'll bite...
I'd pull the drain plug to drain the front diff. (Of course follow safe jacking/supporting protocol and block those wheels dammit)
Pull cover... Spray the entire housing a r&p down to clean it out (I use break clnr)
Take some pics if necessary.
Pull the drive shaft. Loose the pinion nut.
Pull the pin in the center and bolts on the carrier/ring. Tear out the ring gear assembly. Pull the pinion. Beat out the bearings. replace the pinion bearings. Reverse all steps. Fill with fluid and drive.
This is all based on this being your only problem.
Just got done this past summer doing a total rebuild of the rear D35 in my Jeep XJ. It is a basic wrench and bolt kinda job as long as you don't have to replace the R&P.
Caught it early so I could keep the oem setup.