Brakes, Brakes, Brakes
#1
10-03-2012, 05:44 PM
Brakes, Brakes, Brakes
Hey guys!!
I am getting ready to replace my brakes soon.. I work in the hills of WV and they are going quickly. Up and down and around mountains.
The question is should I just replace with same rotors and pads or should I upgrade to slotted and drilled? I would like some more stopping power. I don't think they make a big brake kit for the H3s. Do they?
I know when I used to race in my younger days I would rock drilled and slotted. But being that I don't race my H3 I don't think drilled and slotted are going to help any more than the stock ones. Just eat the pads up quicker..
I am getting ready to replace my brakes soon.. I work in the hills of WV and they are going quickly. Up and down and around mountains.
The question is should I just replace with same rotors and pads or should I upgrade to slotted and drilled? I would like some more stopping power. I don't think they make a big brake kit for the H3s. Do they?
I know when I used to race in my younger days I would rock drilled and slotted. But being that I don't race my H3 I don't think drilled and slotted are going to help any more than the stock ones. Just eat the pads up quicker..
#2
10-03-2012, 06:01 PM
I really don't have any experience with drilled and slotted, but I thought they were drilled and slotted to reduce heat which would be good because being on those hills I imagine you are on the brakes a lot. Personally I think the stock brakes are weak. We've had a couple instances that were near misses where we had to stop quick. I wasn't impressed with the responsiveness and how long it took us to stop. My F-250 is big and heavy but will stop much faster than our H3. I don't have many complaints about our Hummer. It is all around the favorite vehicle I have ever owned. Hopefully someone else will chip in about your brakes. I haven't checked but I really like the heavy duty 4 piston caliper from SSBC. I don't think they make them for H3's yet though.
#3
10-03-2012, 07:26 PM
haha.. I have had a couple of butt tighters myself.. thats why I am wanting to get better brakes! lol
#4
10-03-2012, 08:57 PM
I put drilled on mine a couple months ago and i like the. They work a little bit better than the other ones when i got it..... But the old rotors were awful. I got mine all four rotors and pads for like 235 bucks or something.
#5
10-04-2012, 01:31 AM
The first month I had my H3T I replaced the pads all the way around with duralast gold ones from autozone which carry a lifetime warranty, I just replaced them for FREE, once they wear out bring in the old ones and they give you new ones for $0. They lasted 3 years of Chicago driving 30k on odometer now, I like the improved stopping and don't seem to fade like the stock ones did.
#6
10-04-2012, 07:09 AM
I will prob get drilled and slotted with duralast gold then.. Get best of both worlds. I know upgrading to a better pad could help too.
#7
10-04-2012, 09:26 AM
If you would have searched this you would see this has come up many, many, times.
What are drilled and slotted rotors for? 1) Reduced weight, 2) reduced heat, and 3) reduced stopping distance. I have had race cars and even a few trucks with cross drilled slotted rotors, they stop well, work somewhat better in the rain, but eat pads like crazy. Yeah, the drilled/slotted brake makers will tell you otherwise, but that is BS in the real world, been there, done that. On motorcycles they look cool, the bikes I ride are not race scooters, and pad life is not a serious issue where riding season is short anyway.
Hummer responded to years of GM truck brake criticism by designing the H3 with large calipers including dual pistons up front and discs all way round because with a heavy truck intended for off road use, you need brake overkill. In an off road or street driven truck that weighs almost 5000# stock, or 6000# when in off road form (like mine with rock rails, UCP, Roc Doc Rear Diff Cover and U Bolt Skids, BA Bumper with winch ...) you are wasting your $$ on aftermarket drilled/cross drilled and/or slotted rotors.
So, obviously we are not concerned about #1 above to save a pound or so of unsprung weight. #2 kicks in on the race track where speed and repetitive braking might create need for cooling, because on the street it is not an issue, and during low speed off road not an issue either.
That leaves #3. H3s already have better brakes that most trucks, and if you wheel them, do you really want your drilled holes full of mud and dirt? IMHO, the decrease in pad life is not worth the tiny perceived advantage, unless you are racing yours in the rain.
If you buy lifetime pads, and have nothing better to do than brake jobs 30-40% more often, then have at it.
What are drilled and slotted rotors for? 1) Reduced weight, 2) reduced heat, and 3) reduced stopping distance. I have had race cars and even a few trucks with cross drilled slotted rotors, they stop well, work somewhat better in the rain, but eat pads like crazy. Yeah, the drilled/slotted brake makers will tell you otherwise, but that is BS in the real world, been there, done that. On motorcycles they look cool, the bikes I ride are not race scooters, and pad life is not a serious issue where riding season is short anyway.
Hummer responded to years of GM truck brake criticism by designing the H3 with large calipers including dual pistons up front and discs all way round because with a heavy truck intended for off road use, you need brake overkill. In an off road or street driven truck that weighs almost 5000# stock, or 6000# when in off road form (like mine with rock rails, UCP, Roc Doc Rear Diff Cover and U Bolt Skids, BA Bumper with winch ...) you are wasting your $$ on aftermarket drilled/cross drilled and/or slotted rotors.
So, obviously we are not concerned about #1 above to save a pound or so of unsprung weight. #2 kicks in on the race track where speed and repetitive braking might create need for cooling, because on the street it is not an issue, and during low speed off road not an issue either.
That leaves #3. H3s already have better brakes that most trucks, and if you wheel them, do you really want your drilled holes full of mud and dirt? IMHO, the decrease in pad life is not worth the tiny perceived advantage, unless you are racing yours in the rain.
If you buy lifetime pads, and have nothing better to do than brake jobs 30-40% more often, then have at it.
#9
10-04-2012, 12:30 PM
slotted or drilled equals less surface area, therefore less stopping power. The ONLY reasons to get slotted or drilled rotors is for wight and heat issues. these are not issues for the H3.
I replaced my front rotors at about 100,000, they still looked brand new, and were not worn down at all like i expected to see. So I kept them, resurfaced them ,and will keep for emergency.
I replaced my front rotors at about 100,000, they still looked brand new, and were not worn down at all like i expected to see. So I kept them, resurfaced them ,and will keep for emergency.
#10
10-04-2012, 01:28 PM
If you would have searched this you would see this has come up many, many, times.
What are drilled and slotted rotors for? 1) Reduced weight, 2) reduced heat, and 3) reduced stopping distance. I have had race cars and even a few trucks with cross drilled slotted rotors, they stop well, work somewhat better in the rain, but eat pads like crazy. Yeah, the drilled/slotted brake makers will tell you otherwise, but that is BS in the real world, been there, done that. On motorcycles they look cool, the bikes I ride are not race scooters, and pad life is not a serious issue where riding season is short anyway.
Hummer responded to years of GM truck brake criticism by designing the H3 with large calipers including dual pistons up front and discs all way round because with a heavy truck intended for off road use, you need brake overkill. In an off road or street driven truck that weighs almost 5000# stock, or 6000# when in off road form (like mine with rock rails, UCP, Roc Doc Rear Diff Cover and U Bolt Skids, BA Bumper with winch ...) you are wasting your $$ on aftermarket drilled/cross drilled and/or slotted rotors.
So, obviously we are not concerned about #1 above to save a pound or so of unsprung weight. #2 kicks in on the race track where speed and repetitive braking might create need for cooling, because on the street it is not an issue, and during low speed off road not an issue either.
That leaves #3. H3s already have better brakes that most trucks, and if you wheel them, do you really want your drilled holes full of mud and dirt? IMHO, the decrease in pad life is not worth the tiny perceived advantage, unless you are racing yours in the rain.
If you buy lifetime pads, and have nothing better to do than brake jobs 30-40% more often, then have at it.
What are drilled and slotted rotors for? 1) Reduced weight, 2) reduced heat, and 3) reduced stopping distance. I have had race cars and even a few trucks with cross drilled slotted rotors, they stop well, work somewhat better in the rain, but eat pads like crazy. Yeah, the drilled/slotted brake makers will tell you otherwise, but that is BS in the real world, been there, done that. On motorcycles they look cool, the bikes I ride are not race scooters, and pad life is not a serious issue where riding season is short anyway.
Hummer responded to years of GM truck brake criticism by designing the H3 with large calipers including dual pistons up front and discs all way round because with a heavy truck intended for off road use, you need brake overkill. In an off road or street driven truck that weighs almost 5000# stock, or 6000# when in off road form (like mine with rock rails, UCP, Roc Doc Rear Diff Cover and U Bolt Skids, BA Bumper with winch ...) you are wasting your $$ on aftermarket drilled/cross drilled and/or slotted rotors.
So, obviously we are not concerned about #1 above to save a pound or so of unsprung weight. #2 kicks in on the race track where speed and repetitive braking might create need for cooling, because on the street it is not an issue, and during low speed off road not an issue either.
That leaves #3. H3s already have better brakes that most trucks, and if you wheel them, do you really want your drilled holes full of mud and dirt? IMHO, the decrease in pad life is not worth the tiny perceived advantage, unless you are racing yours in the rain.
If you buy lifetime pads, and have nothing better to do than brake jobs 30-40% more often, then have at it.
At this rate we will all just sit here in silence with no new discussions or threads. I think a new thread will get new members ideas and input and fosters healthy discussion, and keeps the forum moving and interesting.
Just saying
PS I think the H3 brakes are better than most 4x4 trucks/vehicles I have driven, and I have driven most of them over the years as part of my job and also vehicles I have owned, including, Toyota Landcruiser, Hilux, Jeeps, Nissan Patrol, etc etc.
Last edited by Aussie H3; 10-04-2012 at 01:32 PM.