I’ve encountered my first (and hopefully last) problem with our new H3. So far, this problem has my servicing dealer stumped.

The problem is, periodically, usually while stopped at a red light, I get the “Battery” warning on the DIC which stays on for appox 20 sec. and goes out. If I pop it into park or neutral and rev the engine slightly the DIC “Battery” warning will immediately go out. I’ve never gotten the DIC warning while the truck is in motion only at idle.

This has happened approx 2-dozen times in a little over 1200 miles of normal driving. I’ve driven 30-40 miles over a 2-3 day period betweens occurrences and, then I've had it happen 3 times in 30 miles. Understand that this not the start-up test that I’m talking about.

My dealer checked the charging sys and battery and all in normal. And of course the tech has never gotten the warning during his test drives!

Although, after on of the test drives it did throw a code which indicated the PCM was faulty which was replaced supposedly fixing my problem. But before I could drive it off of the dealer’s lot, I got the DIC “Battery” warning!!!!


So, has anyone else experienced such a problem, or am I just, “lucky”?

TIA,
Jules

 

I would have them swap out the battery. It's very likely that the batt could just be bad. Sometimes a battery with a bad cel will still show up on a test as being good. I had one checked at Auto Zone once and they said it was OK. I went home, and used my cell tester, and found either one or two cells totally dead, this was just after I trickle charged it the day before. The point being, don't trust someone sayng the batt is good, unless each cell is tested. Since you have a closed batt, it will be better off to just get them to replace it if they will. It might save them, and you a lot of trouble. If it doesn't fix it, then go from there. At least it will eliminate the poss of a bad batt.

 

Ok, I know this is an old post but for cryin out loud! I have never had so much problems with a vehicle I just purchased..
Today my battery was dead, never having a problem with it prior although the battery is 7 yrs old.. The thing is I never once got a low power warning or a battery light issue come on...
Anybody know much about this other than battery cables not good connection problem? Im curious as to why it doesn't warn me that the battery or voltage is low??

 

7 years on a GM battery is AWESOME.... I believe it has been said that batteries are one of GM's highest warranty claims. I know of a guy that tried to test drive 2 ZO6's on the same lot with dead batteries...

I don't think you are going to see much... lights are usually alternators... in my couple decades of driving I have had batteries die 3-4 hours after I drove it 100+ miles....

Replace the battery, and replace the terminals... and many of your electrical issues will be solved for a few years....

 

I agree. Definitely change out those terminals. Ever since I changed out my terminals I havent had any electrical problems at all. Those terminals are crap, they crack and bend so easily.

 

I second it, crappy terminals=downtime

 

I personally know of at least 30 people in my circle that have had issues with the terminals... and I have personally changed 5-6 sets of them....

What was GM thinking? it's an awful design.... a really good commercial terminal costs me less than $2.... surely a major automaker could get a better deal than me... and save thousands of issues costing major money....

 

Another case of those bad terminals!!!

Is there any particular type, style or brand that you folks are using. I guess Im asking to see some pictures of the DIY Terminal Replace if you have them. Thanks.

 

You can go cheap and get some crimp on ones... but if you ever intend on adding anything to the positive or negative terminal....

Get the higher end stereo ones... I personally bought Tsunami's from thebroken... They come in a few styles... and look great...

 

ive done it on others, retain the factory crimp,its as good as u can get.
cut part of the flat metal away leaving enuf to drill a hole to bolt it to a good brass replacement type. just do not use the clamp on the new one,use one bolt hole for your old end piece.

i do not believe in cutting the cable and clamping the wires,been there did it,ALWAYS END with new trouble down the road. wires corrode.
i found brass at autozone,couple bucks ea. last forever.

if i EVER had to cut cable i solder the wires to make them solid,then solder a lug or crimp the solid soldered end. i avoid crimp if at all possible. been fixing "shortcut" rig ups for years.