2 wheel drive
2008 H3 112k miles.
My front drive shaft crapped out on me 1/05/2022. The boot went bad and subsequently caused the failure. I was 212 miles From home in Libby MT. Getting replacement parts there wasn't happening as every single parts store would have to order them and they were all seriously over priced. I made the decision to pull the front shaft and to put her in 4H lock and pull The TCCM fuse #12 in the engine compartment. This got me home however a H3 without 4wd in the snow and ice just plain sucks. I got stuck 3 times on flat ground but I did happen to get way better gas mileage. So if your in a pinch this will do the trick.
My front drive shaft crapped out on me 1/05/2022. The boot went bad and subsequently caused the failure. I was 212 miles From home in Libby MT. Getting replacement parts there wasn't happening as every single parts store would have to order them and they were all seriously over priced. I made the decision to pull the front shaft and to put her in 4H lock and pull The TCCM fuse #12 in the engine compartment. This got me home however a H3 without 4wd in the snow and ice just plain sucks. I got stuck 3 times on flat ground but I did happen to get way better gas mileage. So if your in a pinch this will do the trick.
I pulled the fuse so the center transfer case wouldn't disengage. It's the stabilitrac system and will come up as a failure code in odometer area This is the only way to fool the computer and keep the center transfer locked. If you don't do this it will only travel about a quarter mile before it disengages and you loose power to the wheels. The process must be done with truck in either 4HL or 4LL and must be engaged prior to turning off the vehicle and removing drive shaft and fuse. I chose 4HL because I had to travel 212 miles Home. I'd like to note that the left rear got most of the power as it was the one spinning in the snow. The truck handles very different in the wind and on slick surfaces. I'm sure you could do the same process if the rear shaft were to go out and be a front wheel drive.
I pulled the fuse so the center transfer case wouldn't disengage. It's the stabilitrac system and will come up as a failure code in odometer area This is the only way to fool the computer and keep the center transfer locked. If you don't do this it will only travel about a quarter mile before it disengages and you loose power to the wheels. The process must be done with truck in either 4HL or 4LL and must be engaged prior to turning off the vehicle and removing drive shaft and fuse. I chose 4HL because I had to travel 212 miles Home. I'd like to note that the left rear got most of the power as it was the one spinning in the snow. The truck handles very different in the wind and on slick surfaces. I'm sure you could do the same process if the rear shaft were to go out and be a front wheel drive.
Everything I've read says you have to pull the fuse. I don't know of anyone who puts a full time 4wd vehicle on a Dyno but I'm sure someone does it . Most 4wds you can disengage, ours you can't. I'll take your word for it but I'm going to stick with what I know for fact works. Thanks for commenting though.
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