This is why your Hummer Leaks In the Rain
5 Attachment(s)
The roof rail channel drains over your side roof light connection this rag shows where it goes
Attachment 11875 Water escapes here to run down the inside of your door rubber or to be more accurate its just left to go wherever it chooses . Attachment 11876 Door rubbers are stuck on with ..... MUD ! Attachment 11877 While your up there tear the gasket off the bottom of your roof light its a bloody sponge Attachment 11878 A bead of silicone means water will never get under your marker light though it doesn't really matter as the roof rails are designed to drain under the light any way . Attachment 11879 The one pic i forgot to take is of the big blob of gutter sealant i put on top of the the rubber grommet to ensure water bypasses it . Now i need to remove the rubber door seal and the one on the plastic roof trim , clean all the crap out and glue them tight into place so mud or water cannot get behind them . If your leak has just started pull the windscreen column trip and clean out the accumulated leaves and mud and whatnot from the gap at the top . This slows the drainage of the rail channels allowing them to fill up with water to a level higher than the grommet letting water in . |
I have a thread about sealing the a/c intake somewhere, sorry can't figure out how to paste the link. It's called new culprit for soaked passenger floor. Check that out while your at it....
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Originally Posted by Shayne100
(Post 317487)
The roof rail channel drains over your side roof light connection this rag shows where it goes
http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps993f1737.jpg Water escapes here to run down the inside of your door rubber or to be more accurate its just left to go wherever it chooses . http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbad0458f.jpg Door rubbers are stuck on with ..... MUD ! http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps860d5da5.jpg While your up there tear the gasket off the bottom of your roof light its a bloody sponge http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps17176857.jpg A bead of silicone means water will never get under your marker light though it doesn't really matter as the roof rails are designed to drain under the light any way . http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps51d3e0a4.jpg The one pic i forgot to take is of the big blob of gutter sealant i put on top of the the rubber grommet to ensure water bypasses it . Now i need to remove the rubber door seal and the one on the plastic roof trim , clean all the crap out and glue them tight into place so mud or water cannot get behind them . If your leak has just started pull the windscreen column trip and clean out the accumulated leaves and mud and whatnot from the gap at the top . This slows the drainage of the rail channels allowing them to fill up with water to a level higher than the grommet letting water in . |
Originally Posted by Dieseldrums
(Post 317573)
I have a thread about sealing the a/c intake somewhere, sorry can't figure out how to paste the link. It's called new culprit for soaked passenger floor. Check that out while your at it....
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The water actually comes in from around the intake located on the outside passenger side under the windshield wiper cowl, not from the a/c itself. The drain exit out of the firewall for the sunroof drain is actually right above it...
It comes in down the firewall and pools up on the passenger floor. You're just sealing the outer edge of the intake hole -not actually blocking anything up. https://www.hummerforums.com/forum/h...culprit+soaked |
Ah i missed that thanks dieseldrums i guess thats another design error i will have to investigate and remedy . If i didn't know better i'd swear i was driving an untested prototype seems the basic vehicle was built to be bullet proof and they then contracted a third world toy factory to to fit the the interior and trim :(
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Under that light has been the biggest pain of my life with the H2. After a snow when the truck would sit in the sun the snow would melt, follow that path, and refreeze in the door jam. I would come back to a frozen door almost every day. I even have water leaking through the grab handle bolts, by the looks of it it's all the same leak.
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Originally Posted by Shayne100
(Post 317674)
Ah i missed that thanks dieseldrums i guess thats another design error i will have to investigate and remedy . If i didn't know better i'd swear i was driving an untested prototype seems the basic vehicle was built to be bullet proof and they then contracted a third world toy factory to to fit the the interior and trim :(
That leak took me a while to track down! I had to also change out my a/c fan that was full of water. Don't forget to seal the molding under the side pillars if you haven't already. I'm sure you have had the "rattle" driving down the road. |
Actually they started at 48k per my window sticker, fully loaded mine was about 53k total.
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The last i remember 54k ish was the base model .
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The one's I test drove on 2003 were $60k and they had one there at Dew Hummer in St Pete set up for a Buccaneer player that was well over 100K....
Anyway.... Just being sarcastic about the leak. Can you instruct us on the correct tire pressure? You were that kid with the glasses and bowtie in my 4th grade class always with his hand up first, right? |
This is what did in my H2. The dealership never could figure it out & I ended up having electrical issues because of it. I wish I had seen this forum back then.
Lots of great info here. :D |
Originally Posted by Dieseldrums
(Post 317709)
Don't forget to seal the molding under the side pillars if you haven't already. I'm sure you have had the "rattle" driving down the road.
I was just going to post about this. I am getting wind noise from the front windshield. Both driver and passenger sides. As I drove it down the highway I reached out and I think I feel the plastic molding along the windshield rattling or vibrating. Like it could pinch my finger between the molding and the glass. Is this what you are talking about? How do I seal it? Should I remove the molding or just caulk under it from the outside? Thank You. |
Originally Posted by rhinomike
(Post 318349)
I was just going to post about this. I am getting wind noise from the front windshield. Both driver and passenger sides. As I drove it down the highway I reached out and I think I feel the plastic molding along the windshield rattling or vibrating. Like it could pinch my finger between the molding and the glass. Is this what you are talking about? How do I seal it? Should I remove the molding or just caulk under it from the outside? Thank You.
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Found the window sticker for my wife's H2. MSRP $63000! In 2003. Hell, my 2014 Ram 3500 Limited 4x4 CTD MegaDually with everything except the sunroof & Limited chrome pkg was only $71145 MSRP when I ordered it in March, 2014 (I didn't pay nearly that much!).
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Amazing the stock price on these.....mine was $82000 and change in Canada.
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Originally Posted by rhinomike
(Post 318349)
I was just going to post about this. I am getting wind noise from the front windshield. Both driver and passenger sides. As I drove it down the highway I reached out and I think I feel the plastic molding along the windshield rattling or vibrating. Like it could pinch my finger between the molding and the glass. Is this what you are talking about? How do I seal it? Should I remove the molding or just caulk under it from the outside? Thank You.
open doors pull rubber down to expose 2 screws remove those screws, take plastic pillar off clean and use 3m calk, that stuff is worth its weight in gold. no more rattles. trust me. |
This is why you hummer leaks in the rain
Shayne100, in your post, you stated:
"pull the windscreen column trip and clean out the accumulated leaves and mud and whatnot from the gap at the top . This slows the drainage of the rail channels allowing them to fill up with water to a level higher than the grommet letting water in . " What exactly do you mean by "column trip"? I have a Limited Edition Victory Red H2 SUT (2005) that is more of a "collector" auto for me. I only have 40,000 miles on it and water has JUST started to leak into the center overhead console when it rains. When I drive it, the water drips out of the 2 map light switches and lights onto my dash. I completely get and understand everything else in your post and the pictures did help. I used to be a certified diesel mechanic for Caterpillar, Mack Trucks and Freightliner, so I am pretty "mechanic" minded. Would like to check this windscreen column trip you talk about. Any info would be helpful. |
Originally Posted by Helga She Is Fine
(Post 317689)
Under that light has been the biggest pain of my life with the H2. After a snow when the truck would sit in the sun the snow would melt, follow that path, and refreeze in the door jam. I would come back to a frozen door almost every day. I even have water leaking through the grab handle bolts, by the looks of it it's all the same leak.
Shayne100, I'm assuming your upper door weatherstrip is installed and is in good working condition? GM part: 25868657. This is the weatherstrip that keeps water away from the door area and down the A-pillar properly. |
Originally Posted by Shayne100
(Post 317674)
Ah i missed that thanks dieseldrums i guess thats another design error i will have to investigate and remedy . If i didn't know better i'd swear i was driving an untested prototype seems the basic vehicle was built to be bullet proof and they then contracted a third world toy factory to to fit the the interior and trim :(
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It's hard to believe that most of these trucks are now pushing 20 years old now. It's less about the design/engineering, though they could have done better in a lot of areas., at this point and more about the maintenance due to age and mileage.
I've learned over the years GM did not have both eyes on the H2 when it came to the H2. Keep in mind they shared engineering, design, QA, and production with AM General. A lot of what we see in terms of bad, and good, design decisions was due to this partnership in the creation of the H2. |
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