"TQ" Rear Door Locks Sticking Or Not Opening
2009 H2 Lux SUV 4 Door Flex Fuel 6.2 LS.
Just went to open rear doors to clean out some stuff. Key Fob worked the front two doors. Second push did not unlock the two rear doors. I can see the inside lock button slightly jump and hear the Meck clicking but the push button will slight jump but not pop up. Tired it with all doors shut and motor running an using the arm rest lock and unlock button same thing.
Next is the well...Maybe some W-40 down the Button top will free up the meck.
Only the rear driver door button popped up but would not lock or go back down. The passenger side rear clicked but no button up or down. Next checked the DIC settings. It's set for "Lock When Shifting out of Park" That did not fix it either.
This just happened. A few days ago when grocery shopping. Just pop the passenger side lock and load up the groceries.
So is it electronic..I don't think so. Sounds like a sticky dirty linkage or Solenoid?
What's your thoughts? I wonder if the inside door panel is easier to remove then the front,
I'll have to youtube it and or maybe someone has a Video posted here. Could not find one. and how complicated is the meck?
Thanks In advance.
Mark R
Just went to open rear doors to clean out some stuff. Key Fob worked the front two doors. Second push did not unlock the two rear doors. I can see the inside lock button slightly jump and hear the Meck clicking but the push button will slight jump but not pop up. Tired it with all doors shut and motor running an using the arm rest lock and unlock button same thing.
Next is the well...Maybe some W-40 down the Button top will free up the meck.
Only the rear driver door button popped up but would not lock or go back down. The passenger side rear clicked but no button up or down. Next checked the DIC settings. It's set for "Lock When Shifting out of Park" That did not fix it either. This just happened. A few days ago when grocery shopping. Just pop the passenger side lock and load up the groceries.
So is it electronic..I don't think so. Sounds like a sticky dirty linkage or Solenoid?
What's your thoughts? I wonder if the inside door panel is easier to remove then the front,
I'll have to youtube it and or maybe someone has a Video posted here. Could not find one. and how complicated is the meck?
Thanks In advance.
Mark R
i get the issue once in a blue.sometimes with the drivers rear door it depends on the weather i think.
it is just tired locks or pasty grease in the locks. most of the time they work fine sometimes there grumpy kinda like a bad back. lol
it is just tired locks or pasty grease in the locks. most of the time they work fine sometimes there grumpy kinda like a bad back. lol
Well here's the funny part. 3 hours later I went out to go somewhere and..BAM..There working as it nothing happened! Was it a computer BCM thing?? No Clue.They have been working ever since. So I decided to put these motor driven door actuators in my Parts stock. I priced out the GM ones and their cost was over $600.00 for all 4. The 2008 and 2009 use a different meck. Just one cable out of the housing. I don't know what the other cable was used for in the older H2's I saw a YT Video and the unit had two cables but the guy only talked about the one that tripped the locks.
So I hunted around and found all 4 and got a discount. They listed for $208.00 on the site but after I checked out and had put some info in I ended up paying about $175.00 for all 4. Free shipping! I have no clue where there made or who makes them. But for that price down the road at least I can fix one if it dies.
Here is the link... It might be jiggy??
https://a-premium.com/product/4-Pcs-...-H2-q6NNesN5IT
They come out of California. Never heard of this company.
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