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"TQ" Answer This Electronic Confusion From The H2 Manual??
Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
Not sure what the creator had in mind with their symbology, as the motors are current-limited with mechanical slip-clutches I can only surmise this what it means.
The mirror position symbols are actual "potentiometers" driven by the mirror rack + pinion gearing, this is how the door modules determine mirrors positions.
For example curb-view and driver preferences, also when "mirror-fold" is activated the mirrors are moved or "parked" in a safe position so as not to touch the bodywork, positions are restored when unfolded.
Just to add I have very little info on 08/09 mirrors so I'm basing my replies on what I've seen and studied.
Well your doing an excellent job of it.
That pic I first posted is from the "N TRUCK" 2009 manual. They don't call it a HUMMER H2 manual ..but a "N TRUCK" L.O.L.
there should be a master sheet or legend somewhere in the manual that would state what each symbol means.
Yep your right... Along with all kinds of fastener warnings and every other type of warning or direction you can emagine. But most of the symbols on the drawings are self explanatory. Since I'm into Vintage electronic repair and electronic repair in general..I'm use to working with this kind of diagram.
looks like an audio power supply and preamp stage. RCA maybe?
Close... A Kenwood AM/FM Stereo Receiver KR-790 from back in the day.... not made for the US....It's kicking my but. It has multi problems all at the same time. Sorta like the H2 with a Engine / Transmission/Transferase/ ECM/BCM/Diff/ and more all at the same time affecting one another.
Plus there are no board interconnect plugs. All ribbon cable soldered directly to the circuit board. All on a short leash...meaning you can only move the boards so far to change out parts. If you unsolder those cables, your in a world of trouble trying to hold them together and stick back in the teeny holes.
This one is one of the toughest units I have worked on. Vintage gear is hard enough to repair if it is Pre Connector or designed to be disassembled to work on.
well check your capacitors especially if it is the barrel type or wax sealed or bakelite ones
germanium diodes and transistors can also give issues. you can try a curve tracer on a scope to see anomalies.
something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/22579397873...Bk9SR4SyxJeZZg
there are some videos on the use of it.
Last edited by bronxteck; Aug 20, 2025 at 04:56 PM.
well check your capacitors especially if it is the barrel type or wax sealed or bakelite ones
germanium diodes and transistors can also give issues. you can try a curve tracer on a scope to see anomalies.
something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/22579397873...Bk9SR4SyxJeZZg
there are some videos on the use of it.
The unit does not go back to the dark ages....LMAO....None of those kind of components were used in the 70's. I have repaired enough Pro Sound gear and Pro Power amps as well as Vintage stuff to check what goes first which is usuallyas you mentionthe Electrolytic Caps and Main Output Transistors. This unit has FM/ Problems while at the same time showing Full DC output at the spk terminals with...now get this... With the protect relay at rest or not tripping. The volume control while fully off lets this happen.The moment you move the voluum up the protect relay fires and shuts off the DC at the outputs as it should while the FM tuner display
(Vacuum Fluorescent) goes off and on. When you press the Tone control button to on the relay fires from off to protect...There is other stuff going on that takes too long to type. This unit has a Board for every section and it also has a Mic input with reverb circuit...More Junk.
So far I have managed to repair one of the 4 seperate power supplies in this boat anchor. Narrowed it down to the Differential Amp Chips which are now in route from China. That's about another 2 weeks away. In the meantime Have to take care of FATBOY H2..L.O.L
Here's a shot of the Boat Anchor sitting on the bench. It's an extremely oversized unit to hold all the circuit boards that make this unit up. The Tuner board alone is the size of a small receiver. Look at the size of the Power Transformer......Way over built.
lol i think i still have that b&k transistor tester. sitting with the tube tester and video signal generator.
you will be suprised what issues you can find with a signal tracer. bad caps noisy transistors and diodes. you can watch them fail in real time. watch the leg of the trace kicking about instead on holding.
Last edited by bronxteck; Aug 20, 2025 at 09:36 PM.
lol i think i still have that b&k transistor tester. sitting with the tube tester and video signal generator.
you will be suprised what issues you can find with a signal tracer. bad caps noisy transistors and diodes. you can watch them fail in real time. watch the leg of the trace kicking about instead on holding.
Funny..I have the B&K 520B Transistor tester. Great little testor. But for caps I use the Sencore LC103. Test's Cap Value..ESR...Dielectric Absorption and Cap leakage in Microamps. It's the most sort after cap tester by most tecs. You can watch the caps short out with the voltage you set to test the caps under actual load.
And my Prize super duper machine is the Panasonic VP7725 Power Amp Tester on load for full distortion. This unit will go down to ".0001" THD...It rocks.
