Hummer H2 For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.

Over heating window relay

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Old Sep 4, 2023 | 09:04 AM
  #21  
Hdog's Avatar
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Originally Posted by oceanbrave
It's easy to get into a "tangle" circuit-wise, to make things easier the attached PDF has been marked-up (commented) with the specific links to your issue. On the very 1st page you'll see I've added links which you should be able to click on (if not the specific page numbers are 23, 24 & 29, can depend on pdf readers)

I'm sure what your picture is showing, but the specific area of interest is the "I/P Relay Block" located down by the left foot (not to be confused with the "I/P Fuse Block" on the left side of the dash)

The specific wire for the Front Right Door is connector C1 Pin C9 Orange (see pdf) i.e. it's the large connector on the underside of the I/P Relay Block and is actually shown on the diagram I posted earlier.

Few thoughts:-
  • Normally it's unlikely to have two faults.
  • Changing the overheating breaker was unlikely to fix the issue, however the same breaker feeds both Right Hand Doors, could there be a short in the front door harness that's confusing things ? (this cable would normally get the most flexing)
  • Did the Front Right work OK before?
No it did not. Since i have owned the Hummer the right side has done that off and on. I didn't realize the breaker was getting hot until a while back. My thoughts were it had something to do with the aftermarket alarm. But now that it has been removed I became even more confused.
 
Old Sep 4, 2023 | 10:25 AM
  #22  
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Focusing on the lost power to the Front Right Door:-
  1. On the I/P Relay block, pull out connector C10 and remove the RT Door Circuit Breaker.
  2. On the I/P Junction Block (lower right of dash) pull out connector C7 (refer to pages 30, 31 &.35)
  3. Check the continuity from the RT Door Circuit Breaker socket ( I/P Relay Block) to I/P Junction Block connector C7 Pin E position (the block not the harness connector) If this circuit is OK the fault is not related to the I/P Relay Block or it's cabling.
  4. In the door, unplug PDM connector C1 and with I/P Junction Block connector C7 still unplugged, measure the continuity between the harness connector C7 Pin E (circuit 1340 refer to Page 35) and C1 Pin 2 (Orange of the 4-Way connector - not to be confused with orange in the 26 connector C2) If no continuity the most likely problem will be a break in the door hinge wiring.
  5. If there was continuity in 4 above, plug in Junction Block connector C7 and test the continuity from the RT Door Circuit Breaker socket ( I/P Relay Block) to PDM connector C1 Pin 2. If there's continuity the fault must be elsewhere.
Somewhere in the above there will be a clue, this probably takes longer to explain than do.

Accuracy is key to everything and the wiring diagrams are reliable, for example if the power loss was on PDM connector C2 Pin 14 that would link back to I/P FUSE Block rather than I/P Relay Block, i.e. a different story.
 

Last edited by oceanbrave; Sep 4, 2023 at 11:00 AM.
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