Good morning I got my new window motor and regulator in only to find out I am not getting any power to the right rear window motor or to the switch. The front passenger window operates the way it's supposed to. Any ideas would be helpful I'll use this to check thanking you in advance

 

check the harness going into the door for broken or shorted wires

 

Before there was an overload, now there's no load, it sounds a bit suspicious..

If there is no voltage between the Orange Wire Pin A and Black wire Pin E on the switch, then one of these statements must be true:-

• There's a break in the circuit running from I/P relay block K C10 to pin A of the Window Switch, this could be either:-
  • A broken or burnt-out Orange wire (door harness possibly)
  • The I/P Relay block circuit breaker "RT DOORS" is faulty.
  • The I/P Relay block itself is faulty.
• The Window Switch Pin E (Black) is not connected to Ground G306 (Right Inner "B" Pillar)

All the above can be resolved using a multimeter.

However, if there is power to the switch try operating it and check the voltage between Brown Wire Pin E and Dark Blue Wire Pin F (switch) and also on the motor, if there is then it's the motor (correct P/No?)







This is the Dorman Window Regulator Diagnostic Flowchart courtesy of Rockauto

 

After pretty near tearing my Hummer apart LOL. I have found that there is a break in the orange wire somewhere I have looked and checked with my voltmeter and my test light and I can't figure out where it's at. So in order to keep from tearing the car apart any further can I run a separate wire over to the orange wire on the switch? I did a test run on that theory to see if the orange wire was my problem I run a wire from a power source and connected it directly to the bottom of the wire harness on the switch and everything seem to work. Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated thanks guys stay blessed and prayed up!!

 

That's good progress, however a broken wire would not cause over-heating unless one end of it is shorting out somewhere, possibly to another cable.

The most likely place will be where the cables flex the most, possible at the door hinge, this could narrow down the search considerably..

Even installing a separate wire it would still have to go around the hinge through to the door window module, i.e. the same route, so it might be worth taking a closer look at this section of wiring, there could be more than one wire involved. Once you find the break(s) you can splice in a new wire(s) leaving them loose rather than tight.


If you do it, please post some pics for future reference.

 

I checked the wire before it goes into the column and into the door and I am not getting a power reading there either . I checked with my voltmeter and my test light. I have changed out the breaker box and put in a different 25 amp circuit breaker same results. So the problem lies somewhere between the breaker box and the door switch but where I have no clue and for me trying to figure out where that break is it's going to be like trying to find my way out of an eight square mile cornfield LOL

 

look at the door harness they break from flexing.

 

It's worth double checking your results, try flexing cables as you measure.

It may be the "column" you refer to is the Right B Pillar, so I've attached some PDFs for that area, they might help with your diagnostics..

The cabin wiring view is a bit poor, but you may still be able to pick out the cable route to Call-Out 36 (connector C390)

It seems unlikely the harness would be the issue unless its chaffing somewhere, or has been modified/worked-on, or there's been some accidental damage, but nothing is absolute.

Also I believe it's worth locating the fault as it could involve other cables/wires.

 

My Hummer did have an aftermarket alarm system and a kill switch in it. This was all there when I bought the vehicle and I was having this problem back then. And I have since removed those item's. As suggested be before i changed the rear window regulator and motor but still same results. So I rerouted power to the rear window hoping that would do the trick. It worked for the rear window but the front window is still doing it. So I think the problem is somewhere in the dash. So now I am trying to figure out which wire coming from the breaker box power's the windows for the right side.

Back view of breaker box

 

It's easy to get into a "tangle" circuit-wise, to make things easier the attached PDF has been marked-up (commented) with the specific links to your issue. On the very 1st page you'll see I've added links which you should be able to click on (if not the specific page numbers are 23, 24 & 29, can depend on pdf readers)

I'm sure what your picture is showing, but the specific area of interest is the "I/P Relay Block" located down by the left foot (not to be confused with the "I/P Fuse Block" on the left side of the dash)

The specific wire for the Front Right Door is connector C1 Pin C9 Orange (see pdf) i.e. it's the large connector on the underside of the I/P Relay Block and is actually shown on the diagram I posted earlier.

Few thoughts:-

• Normally it's unlikely to have two faults.
• Changing the overheating breaker was unlikely to fix the issue, however the same breaker feeds both Right Hand Doors, could there be a short in the front door harness that's confusing things ? (this cable would normally get the most flexing)
• Did the Front Right work OK before?