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No backup lights? Questioning physics

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Old Nov 10, 2021 | 01:54 PM
  #11  
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i would make sure G401 is good. it tends to rot out.
 
Old Nov 10, 2021 | 05:08 PM
  #12  
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are you using the ground wire at the socket to test?

Neal
 
Old Nov 11, 2021 | 12:39 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by bronxteck
i would make sure G401 is good. it tends to rot out.
According to the diagram posted above, a bad G401 would affect both right and left voltages. But only one of those 2 reads low.
How would that be possible? Trying to understand....
 
Old Nov 11, 2021 | 12:56 PM
  #14  
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corrosion also on the low voltage side. voltages do not just go low unless there is a load be it corrosion or rust causing the resistance.
 
Old Nov 11, 2021 | 01:28 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by bronxteck
corrosion also on the low voltage side. voltages do not just go low unless there is a load be it corrosion or rust causing the resistance.
Yes, corrosion, but NOT on the ground wire at G401. Elsewhere. A bad ground would affect the entire circuit, not just one side.
 
Old Nov 11, 2021 | 04:04 PM
  #16  
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the main ground may be bad enough not to allow current but shows a standing voltage. the the other is probably more compromised as it is also affecting voltage by causing a voltage drop. you do not have to take my word for it. try a fresh known good ground in your circuit to rule it out. or check with a multimeter between the existing ground and a chassis ground and see if you get voltage reading. if you do then you have a bad ground.
 

Last edited by bronxteck; Nov 11, 2021 at 04:06 PM.
Old Nov 11, 2021 | 05:50 PM
  #17  
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Good info. Let's see what the OP finds out. Quite interesting.
 
Old Nov 14, 2021 | 12:03 PM
  #18  
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Week 2 of no backup lights. Since I've just been getting such crazy results on the meter, and thanks to everyone with their suggestions.
I got a new meter that doesn't "auto" and set the **** to DC. 0 volts at the sockets with the car in reverse.
I went down to the "circuit board", 0 volts on pin B, Fuse is good and has to be good for the shifter interlock.
So the good news is it isn't a mystery ghostly issue... Just an idiot with a bad meter.
Now the harder challenge of tracing that wire back I suppose. Open to likely places to check if anyone has a suggestion. My wife would probably like to drive her car instead of me!

 
Old Nov 14, 2021 | 12:08 PM
  #19  
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Lower right side of dash.
 
Old Nov 14, 2021 | 12:17 PM
  #20  
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Well, at least that now makes sense. Did not make sense before, as I noted.

Agree with @DaveP28
Time to look at the next upstream module junction as he pointed out.

Next, if there is voltage there on the "out" or "downstream" side, then you have a bad wire between there and your "circuit board" black junction box at the rear.

If there is no voltage, go to the "in" or "upstream" side of that under-dash module and test for hot.
If there is no hot, then chase it upstream.
If you have hot (power), then that module may be defective. Jump that module and see if you get reverse lights.
If you do, then module is bad.
If you do not have lights, then I give up, LOL! and I hand it over to @oceanbrave , as he is the electrical big dog here.
 

Last edited by finall; Nov 14, 2021 at 12:21 PM.



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