Hi all,

So my Hummer is having a problem that bo one in the Denver area I've Taken it to can diagnose. Here's the back story, I had a bearing blow out on my driver's side, which took out the axel. I had it replaced at a mechanic, who told me all the ball joints and tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, stabilizing rods needed to be replaced on it. They quoted me $4000 to do all of that. I took the Hummer home and replaced all those parts myself, about two weeks later the axel the mechanic put in broke, took out bearings on the driver side and the brake line. The mechanic was a POS and wouldn't honor his work and fix it, so I replaced all that yet again. two weeks ago I finally replaced the idler arm after that incident and now I have a strong vibration when driving and loss of power when turning. So last weekend I was driving it after that and the passenger side axel busted, I replaced that yet again, and it's still having the same issues. I had it towed to Big O tires thinking it was out of alignment. They checked it test drove it and so I took it down the street to a 4x4 shop, they looked it over and said everything was fine. They told me to remove the front drive shaft and see if it's stuck 4wd mode, I did that and it got stuck right down the street from the shop. I took it back to that shop and they looked it over and said it was 99% the encoder motor. I took it to the dealership to have it programmed after having the motor swapped out. They programmed it and test drove it and said it was fine. I'm thinking great it's finally resolved, leave the dealership and get stuck right down the street again. They said I needed to put the drive shaft back in so I did and put on a new universal joint while I was at it, and it was still having the same problems, no power when turning feeling like I'm going to blow an axel when driving, clicking and clanging sounds when turning sleft or right, the tire squeeks when turning. The dealership has it right now and they just got back to me suggesting that the front tires are 10/32 lower tread than the back (the back are brand new), and that they suggest taking it to a 4x4 shop to have it diagnosed as they can't find anything wrong with it. Also I forgot to mention it does have an oil leak, but it's had that since I've owned it. I need some help and have no where to turn, I'm traveling and towing a travel trailer with this, so I'm stuck here until I resolve this nightmare situation any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED!

 

I'm really unsure but any steering/braking issues? I had a weird hydroboost issue once where when turning the wheel at all the hydroboost would apply the brakes. In my case I could also physically watch the brake pedal go down by itself when turning.

If it is locked in 4hi or 4lo, when on pavement it would also be binding up when trying to turn, especially at very low speeds.

My only other guesses would be maybe there is some internal issue with the transfer case where actuating the modes (which uses the encoder motor) maybe frees it up for a short bit or something. Or something with the transmission or torque converter. Trans fluid full and looks red and clear I assume.

 

Here are my thoughts. I am not an expert on drivetrains, but your observations lead me to a conclusion.

If it is "loosing power" on turns, that tells me that it is NOT losing power on turns.
It is likely binding up due to stuck 4 low or locker. (Do you have aftermarket electronic locker installed on the front diff?)
That would feel like losing power, because it is slowing down due to the binding.

The proof of what I am saying is that you are breaking axles. And the other sounds you describe.
99% sure of that.
Not normal to break one, unless doing heavy off-roading. Absolutely insane to break both sides.
Also not normal to break drive shaft yokes or u-joints that quickly. That again tells me there is an un-natural load on them. Again pointing to binding.

There is your problem. Or is it?
You said that the problem was still there with a disconnected front drive shaft.
So is your rear OEM locker engaging, as that is the only other thing that could be losing power if your front end is free (ie. no front locker, no binding).

A competent shop can easily test all this.

Or there is something binding inside your front diff, even with front drive shaft disconnected. Clutch plates, bad gears, etc.
Everything is pointing to the front diff.

AND importantly, it has ZERO to do with treadwear, even if you are 10/32" apart between axles.
The viscous coupling compensates for that. Unless you are down to 2/32" on your tires, they are OK and legal.

And if a 4x4 shop and trany shop are failing to diagnose, then pack up and move from your town to another.
Or sell your H2 and buy a car under warranty.

Look, you not only have a problem with your rig, you have a problem with a bunch of incompetent morons working on your rig.

 

I agree 100% with finall, its got to be the front diff locked, this will break parts if driven on hard surfaces for any length of time especially if you have the truck loaded like pulling a camper

Neal

 

Thank you for the advice, I think it has something to do with the front fork, I'm sure it's still the plastic one inside of there after doing some reading on it. I'm taking to an Aamco Transmission shop to have them look at it on Monday, unless anyone here knows a good place in Denver or Colorado Springs?

 

AAMCO is the last place I would take it to.

You need to do this:
1. call all the 4x4 shops in your area, and ask who they use to rebuild differentials and drivetrains.
2. call your local Jeep Club, and ask who they use to rebuild their drivetrains (cause there ain't no Hummer clubs anymore).
3. call said axle rebuilders
4. email them this thread
5. see what they say
6. pick the most common answer and have the vehicle towed to one of the places that was highest rated in reviews online, and by the 4x4 shops, and after going there in person to inspect the place.
7. Give yourself a slap on the face for even considering a transmission shop for differential problems.

 

AAMCO is the last place I would take it to.

You need to do this:
1. call all the 4x4 shops in your area, and ask who they use to rebuild differentials and drivetrains.
2. call your local Jeep Club, and ask who they use to rebuild their drivetrains (cause there ain't no Hummer clubs anymore).
3. call said axle rebuilders
4. email them this thread
5. see what they say
6. pick the most common answer and have the vehicle towed to one of the places that was highest rated in reviews online, and by the 4x4 shops, and after going there in person to inspect the place.
7. Give yourself a slap on the face for even considering a transmission shop for "suspect" differential problems.

 

okay so I've talked to some other mechanics, they listen to it and drove it around which I didn't think was a great idea considering everything that's going on with it, but they told me that the transfer case is shot they found metal shards in the oil and they can hear a lot of rattling from it. All of that only manifested after I quiz them about it and spoke to the actual guy that diagnosed it before then they told me that they'd opened it up and everything was screwed on it. so my next step is to get a transfer case rebuild kit, does anyone have any suggestions on where to look for one?

 

Wow dude, you are not listening.

If you actually disconnected the front drive shaft like you said, and you still got binding from the front wheels, the problem is somewhere in the front diff, or axles, bearings, etc.
Most likely the diff.

You kept driving it and what could have happened is that the front diff binding chewed up the T-case.
Now you have 2 problems. Expensive problems.

DO NOT FIX the T-case before you fix the front diff, or you will blow it up again.

Dude, you are not listening. And it is going to cost you a bundle of $$.
And find a REAL service shop that knows what they are doing. Not the yahoos you are taking your H2 to.

Or do it your way. And give yourself another slap on the face for good measure

The only thing that could change the diagnosis is if the binding was actually NOT coming from the front wheels, but the T-case itself or the rear diff. But your description of the problem does not suggest that. Obviously what I have written above is all speculation without actually driving your rig, so those are only suggestions.

Ad careful with trany shops. They will toss a handful of metal shavings into your clean pan and show you how your trany (or T-case) is wearing badly when you take your vehicle for trany or gear fluid change.
Most of them are scumbags preying on the masses. There are a few good ones in between. That is why you need to do what I suggested earlier.

Either way, good luck with the fix and keep us updated.