How do you remove the vapor canister?
 

I am replacing my fuel vapor canister but I cannot figure out how to get the old one out. The black plastic canister is mounted on a metal bracket that bolts into the frame rail (driver's side). The bracket has metal tabs at the front that the canister slots into, and a single nut over a threaded post at the back end. I removed the nut but couldn't remove the canister. I loosened the two bolts holding the bracket to the frame but they don't back out completely even when loose.

What am I missing?

It's a heck of a job, I think they mounted it and then put the body on. I had to use a pry bar and some tugging to get mine out.

I'll look at alldata and see what they have for removal

LOLOL!!! Yeah, I was thinking the same thing... the canister must have gone in first on the manufacturing line before something else was installed that blocked access to it. I am considering cutting ~1/2" off the end of the threaded post to gain a little clearance.

Any tips from alldata would be helpful and much appreciated!!!

In reference to your post in that other thread, I have a new vent solenoid in front of me, and a new canister and purge valve are arriving today.

Alldata has an issue with the diagram that shows the removal, it is blank, I'll try and contact them to see whats up

This is what the GM eSI system shows.... I wonder if they just sort of get stuck in place of the years and need some percussive persuasion (beat on it with a hammer or something lol) to get it to move??

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...b924838262.jpg

MixManSC do you have the diagram for the 08 model, I thought I read that he was working on an 08

Yup.... its even more descriptive. lol

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...0be6f4030b.jpg

Thank you Sir,

I tried it that way, it will come out but it takes a pry bar to bend the tab over the stud and some tugging to get it out

Neal

Alldatadiy has a page with that info but the pictures are blank, I tried to get in touch with them but there is no easy way to do it to let them know of the issue.

Legerwn, I think your theory about the canister being installed before the body is true, because you cannot really take the canister out and install the new one as it is laid out!

BUT... if you take a sawzall to the threaded post right above the nut, the shortened post yields plenty of room to remove the canister quite easily!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hum...61215568f6.jpg
This pic shows the threaded post cut off at the top of the 13mm nut prior to removal.


With the post cut, I removed the 13mm nut and swung the canister away from the bracket and shifted it toward the rear, freeing it from the bracket tabs at the front of the canister. Installing the new canister is much easier this way, too!

I had trouble removing two of the hose connectors on the rear face of the canister, so I sawzalled the nipples off the canister first, then disconnected the hoses from the cut stubs. By contrast, those connectors go on very easily!

Would it be easier to remove the nut from the canister, giving you more room to get to the bracket nuts and remove the canister and bracket together?

I tried that approach clsimmon but had no success. The two bolts that connect the bracket to the frame seem to be anchored in the frame... I backed the rear one out all the way so it was loose and flopping around but there was some sort of retainer keeping the end of it connected to the frame. It didn't look like there was enough clearance to remove the forward bolt completely, again because of the lack of wiggle room between the frame and the body panels.

If you have a Sawzall with a metal-cutting blade, the cut-the-post approach is a 2-minute solution, with no downsides - and in fact it makes installation of the new canister that much easier too.

I tried everything as you did, the bolts to the frame don't come out and the retaining stud was so long it prevented the canister ear from clearing it to slide it down to get the retaining tabs out of the mounting bracket. Your solution is the best idea I've found for removal, wish I would have thought of it while trying to remove mine.

Thanks for posting, I didn't replace mine, I blew it out with compressed air and tapped on it to loosen the carbon thinking it would help with the slow fill issues. It did help a lot but did not resolve it completely so I was dreading the replacement with a new one but now know how to get at it.

Neal

You're welcome! I "grew up" on the Isuzu Vehicross forum 10-15 years ago and am very used to posting any worthwhile repair procedures and tips. It was an excellent technical forum with just a TON of great info on every job and mod... and now that I think of it, the Vehicross was another "orphaned" SUV like the Hummer!! But Hummer parts are waaaay cheaper than VX parts became after Isuzu pulled the plug on their US car business around 2006-2007. Imagine paying $250 for an OE brake rotor, and having to wait 3 weeks for it!

CUT THE BOLT STUD FLUSH TO NUT!!!
VehiGaz nailed it= sawzall to stud above nut spray some wd40 and work the nut forward * back to clean threads.
Removal is a cinch. I also replaced the canister valve & purge valve since all 3 have never been done to date. $150 shipped on amazon for all 3 original parts.
Literally 1.5 hours max to do all 3.
To remove the 3 hoses on the canister, I used a small thin long shank screwdriver & gently moved the 2 clips over the lip & slid off before I removed the canister. I sprayed all with WD40 before starting and let sit for 15 minutes. All 3 came off fairly easily. The one on the canister valve with the 1 foot hose I slid out towards rear of vehicle with the vent valve - Installed hose on new vent valve and slid back to newly installed canister. I put a thin coat of silicone "gel" on all the nipples prior to installing the hoses, probably not neccesary but figured it would lubricate the o-rings in the fittings.
Entire job can be done without a lift easily,.
So, dont mess with trying to NOT cut the stud, CUT THE STUD and canister removes easily with ZERO issues.

I removed my canister on my 2005 without any issues. I did not have to cut the stud. The canister attaches to the bracket with cleats on the front side. You might have to remove the nut, pull the canister back off the cleats allowing you to remove it from the front side rather than the back side where the nut and stud are located.