I started to get the smell of coolant in the cabin with the heater turned on so I know what that means.
Since I have not worked on H2 before I bought a service manual to prepare for this job.

All I can say is: WTH were they thinking that you have to pull apart the whole dash assembly and discharge the refrigerant just to replace a leaking heater core?
the pre-2000 GM trucks were super easy to replace the heater core, why did GM screw that up???! OK RANT OVER.

Any tricks or hacks to get the heater core out without suffering thru a complete tear down ?

 

Loop that bitch off and forget about it.

Tim

 

Are you for real?!
This my winter driver & tow rig. The heater and A/C MUST work so I guess when the weather warms up I know what I am in store for.

 

Sorry about your winters. I've never even used my heater that I can remember.

DO yourself a favor and make sure its not that plastic Y fitting that is against the firewall, or the plastic quick connects.

I thought mine was leaking as well but it turned out to be that fitting instead. Like you, I was contemplating the heater core R/R and it would have been an all day all weekend job.

Tim

 

Lots of bolts but pretty easy to remove the dash assembly
The PO had a spaghetti of wires for the aftermarket stereo, I will clean that up too.

I removed a section from the bottom of the dash frame @ the steering column, otherwise you would need to remove the steering wheel to take the dash out.. pretty dumb move GM.
My 1972 Cutlass has a slot in the dash for this reason, with a separate filler panel.. pretty smart move GM.

I will weld some tabs on the section I cut so I can reinstall it with some self tapping stainless bolts once the dash frame is back in the truck..

Next step is actual removal of the HVAC module to service it.

 

geezus- how much labor to get to that point? I would imagine doing the blend door actuators since they are all exposed at this point along with the heater core/...

 

About 2 hours, I got hung up on; the transfer case switch harness connectors, the POs spaghetti wiring for the stereo, & modifying the dash so I can remove it without dis-assembling the steering wheel/column.

Yes I plan to restore the whole module:
(4) actuators cost $415
Heater core $105
Evaporator core $181
Blower motor $105
Foam tape to restore the harness $ 12
$818 to completely renew the module.

Odds are the evaporator core will never go bad, but I will replace the o-rings since it will be apart.

 

I did this once in a Lexus GX470 (suv)- was just one of those jobs you need to dive into and not think about I suppose. Seems daunting until you start removing screws. Hopefully I dont have to do this for years in the H2- lol. Just looks like hell once she is all open & exposed like that

 

Indeed, I have taken plenty of cars apart before you would think a big SUV would have more room to service all the components, guess not.

but it is just bolts and harness plugs

 

you might want to add a new orofice tube, o-rings and receiver dryer to the list since you will have the AC system opened to the elements.