My H2 recently started not shutting off when the key is turned to off positon. It starts up fine, but when I turn the key to off, pull the key OUT, the engine is still running. I have to go into the fuse box and pull the ingintion fuse to shut it down. I have noticed that it only does it when my automatic headlights are on. If they are off, the truck turns of normally. Has anyone run into this problem or have an idea what it could be? I'm thinking it's a short in the ingnition switch.

 

I'm guessing bad ignition switch...any trouble codes stored in the computer?

 

Ignition switch would be my guess as well.

 

My 2005 H2 did the same thing this morning. And I also had to turn the headlights on manually this morning as they didn't come on automatically. I had to press the remote start button on key fob to get it turn shut off.

 

This may be a long shot but try pulling out the WS WPR fuse on the left side of the dash.

A short inside the wiper motor can cause a back-feed causing strange things, recently there was a recent case where the instrument cluster stayed on with the doors closed and key out.

 

MINES went haywhacky, 2004 H2, ok, it eats ignition switches, has since it was brand new, its been doing goofy stuff again, like not wanting to start, a/c air or warm air wont blow thru vents,,, only blows thru defroster, then it started keeping wipers on, then the window washer fluid motor started screaming, but not pumping washer fluid, but making noise like she was gonna take off to the moon,i mean LOUD noise, and every time now i go any where, i have to pop hood, unhook neg on battery, because here of late it thinks something is running battery down,so red battery light comes on dash, oh stereo will keep going even when key is off and your out of vehicle, sometimes if lucky, i can pull over, shut engine off, restart it and wipers stay off, so other night we went ahead and replaced gear shifter solenoid and ignition switch, somthing i noticed, lots of wires wrapped in black tape that lead to the wiring harness that plugs into the interlock shifter solenoid, AND the little plastic peice that holds the wires, pink, yellow. green with black line and a green one didnt appear to be in right slots from what i could find online, and the solid green one was out, unhooked, and not sure where it goes, and the wiring harness, that has these wires hooked in it, and the soldered in place?, because not only do i think some mechanic didnt put colord wires in right slot, i dont see what keeps them hooked to the harness,we tried putting green wire down in slot, but theres nothing to hold it, and not sure which slot i goes in, anybody got simple picture of which slot each colored wire goes in? im thinking to order a new shifter interlock connector with the wires, but ones i see online arent showing under their white or greu wires if the are color coated so i can splice these into existing red or pinkish, yellow, green, black n green wires, and is there a trick to the ignition switch? it has teeth on bottom that you can click and turn, we had to put in it 3 times before she'd start and or go in gear, AFTER we'de pull it out, move teeth a notch, OH AND GREEN WIRE WAS NOT HOOKED UP TO SHIFTER SOLENOID DEAR lord i need help, CANT AFFORD DEALERSHIP, THIS GIRL NEEDS SOME HELP , COULD WIPER MOTOR BE CAUSING ALL THIS NUTTY STUFF?

 

MuseumMansDaughter you posted this in multiple threads, so here will be the focus for me. Also there's a lot of info to untangle and digest, with many issues mixed-in together "hard to see the wood for the trees"

So far there is:-

1. Ignition switch
   1. Many replacements
   2. Assembly problem, teeth alignment.
2. Poor starting (big topic)
3. HVAC air control problem (blend door actuator?)
4. Front wiper motor problems:-
   1. Wipers staying on.
   2. Washer motor staying on & not pumping and noisy.
5. Charging Light (alternator, or bad ground)
6. Retained Accessory Power (RAP) problems:-
   1. Battery drain.
   2. Stereo staying on with ignition key out and doors closed.
7. Interlock shifter & wiring:-
   1. Wiring possibly incorrect and green wire not connected, color coding info required.
   2. Possibly needs new connector.

Hopefully didn't miss out anything.

Perhaps the best way forward is as JC the song goes "One Bit At A Time"

Issues 4 & 5
All probably linked to the front windshield wiper motor, so for a quick proof, pull-out the WS WPR fuse (Left of Dash) and the W/S WASH Fuse (underhood)
This will completely disable the wipers and washer pump, hopefully it will also stop the RAP issues i.e. battery drain, stereo staying On etc.
If it does the issue will be the Wiper Motor itself, there are numerous YT videos about it and also discussions on this forum, for example here

The noisy washer pump is likely to be a separate issue, it may need replacing. I've never changed one myself, but again there is a YT video out there, briefly the job looks like:

1. Remove the air intake filter housing,
2. Undo the 3 bolts holding the washer tank,
3. Remove and replace pump (push fit)

Hope this solves a 3rd of your problems ,you can then focus prioritize the other issues.

 

Thank you. Bless your heart, yes i am a babbling mess, because this is too much, like i said, its went haywhacky, hay wire, and funny how i use 50000000 words to explain it all, and you cleaned up my word tossed salad mess and said the same thing only better, cleaner, clearer, ok i had just read some where about the battery things, ''rap'' ? Something about replacing the cables, anyways, i will now try to find the fuses your speaking of '' ws, wpr fuse, and the w/s fuse under hood,'' and unhook them, i am a female, so my nerves are about shot over this, but i suppose all this happening at once on top of life and its surprises, would drive anybody nuts, thank you so much i am going to try to find those fuses and pull them and see if that help, i still swear that the wires in the wiring harness at the shifter solenoid are in the wrong spots,,,,and cant find a photo of it,,, most show 4 slots, but 5 wires,,, have mercy, thank you thank you thank you !!!!,, bless ya

 

@oceanbrave
Thank you. Bless your heart, yes i am a babbling mess, because this is too much, like i said, its went haywhacky, hay wire, and funny how i use 50000000 words to explain it all, and you cleaned up my word tossed salad mess and said the same thing only better, cleaner, clearer, ok i had just read some where about the battery things, ''rap'' ? Something about replacing the cables, anyways, i will now try to find the fuses your speaking of '' ws, wpr fuse, and the w/s fuse under hood,'' and unhook them, i am a female, so my nerves are about shot over this, but i suppose all this happening at once on top of life and its surprises, would drive anybody nuts, thank you so much i am going to try to find those fuses and pull them and see if that help, i still swear that the wires in the wiring harness at the shifter solenoid are in the wrong spots,,,,and cant find a photo of it,,, most show 4 slots, but 5 wires,,, have mercy, thank you thank you thank you !!!!,, bless ya

 

"Making things difficult is easy, making things easy is difficult"

FYI
Retained Accessory Power (RAP) is a power mode enabled by the body control module (BCM) that permits the operation of some accessories for up to 10 minutes after the ignition switch is turned OFF.