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Hummer H2For those who like a little more gleam to their Hummer, the H2 offers a similar rugged look as the H1, but as a lower cost, and with more added features, making it almost a massive luxury SUV.
Congratulations on your find, sounds like a very nice unit, New Mexico is a great place to find a rust free Hummer.
As far as Predator is concerned, they are light years ahead of Mash in many area, they can install the later LML or L5P into an 08 or later H2. They also offer differential upgrades and selectable 2/4 wheel drive.
Mash is still trying to figure out the integrations to the newer Canbus used in the 08/09 H2 vehicles and currently only offer LM7 or LMZ upgrades which are dinosaurs compared to the LML and L5P variants.
If I was going to make the switch I would use Predator. I have watched a number of video's and they advertise 100% compatibility with existing systems in the H2. The only downside to them at last check there is almost a 1 year waiting list you have to get on to get the conversion done. They also keep your old engine, trans and transfer case as part of the deal.
Much of the Dmax upgrade comes down to integration with the H2's computer and hardware systems. With that said upgrading a 03-07 H2 is less difficult and a good mechanic with the proper tools can and have done it. There are a number of youtube video's on it.
As far as switching away from the LQ4 your going to experience similar issues especially if you use any engine combination that uses different computer controls. You may still have to use a stand alone engine control module and you back in the same boat, poor integration with existing systems.
Punching out the LQ4, kicking up the compression ratio and a better camshaft would save you from all of that and give you great performance. Add a tune for the upgraded LQ4 and your done. Personally the least labor intensive is to bolt on a turbo or supercharger, most of the time manufactures of these system offer turn key programming. The only downside is the transmission which will also need an upgrade.
When it's all said and done while a LQ4 upgrade will be much better then stock it won't provide the performance, torque or fuel economy the Dmax would, but your investment will be much much less. And unless you have custom car insurance, if anything happens to your H2 the insurance company will give you a dollar ninety five for it. Something to be factored in.
Anyway, Cheers, enjoy your new H2!
I want to address a few things with your reply. I currently have a predator swapped H2 and i think if you go into the duramax swapped h2 groups on Facebook you'll find my opinion is that of many that have had swaps done. Predator does one thing great -- MARKETING!!! Mash is actually light years ahead of predator where it counts. As an example my swap was done in 2019 and with the predator swap you lose the rear locker functionality, and dont get the tap to shift functionality of the duramax. Predator also had my exhaust sitting on the cross members not in hangers, the transfer case didnt have the spacer installed giving it clearance and wore a whole in the case as a result of it, the front timing cover was put back on by predator with what appears to be bolts out of the scrap bin as only 2 were the correct bolts for the motor, the trans cooler they put in was in the worst possible spot and is way undersized and had no relay installed on the fan, they left the stock h2 gauge cluster so i had no wts light, the truck even though deleted had a california emissions ecm, the list goes on and on. I tried getting mine into predator to get some repairs done before i knew what i know now. They kept kicking me down the road and after about 6 months i was never able to get into them. To be completely honest they seem to be more concerned with looking like stars on youtube that properly building the damn truck.
Spoke with Mike at Mash Motors and what a difference!!! Mike doesnt nickle and dime like predator and really knows his stuff. I made the 1,000 + mile trek to Mike and the work he did on my truck is absolutely amazing! Also Mike is currently in the process of doing an L5P swap on an H2 now and the only other swaps i've seen had the 6 speed allison, Mikes will have the 10 speed as it should.
I would seriously suggest you go to the duramax swapped h2 groups and just lurk around ask some questions. I think you'll find some good info.
Rebel102285, this is exactly the type of information we need here. For me it was a real eye opener and your right Predator seems to be great Marketers they advertise everywhere but Mash not so much. I have actually talked with Mike on the phone at Mash Motors and found they are very proud of their conversion process and love taking time to discuss in great detail.
I did call Predator doesn't really want to get into the detail or explain the process, they just wanted a contract and didn't want to take the time to discuss.
I truly believe as time goes on many of us die hard H2 owners will be looking for some alternatives to put new life into our aging H2 platforms. Having first hand knowledge from members who have been there, done that is better then some bull**** from some salesman over the phone.
Rebel, thanks for taking the time to post up your experiences. Please keep us apprised on the things you find with your conversion and the support if any Predator gives you.
As an example my swap was done in 2019 and with the predator swap you lose the rear locker functionality, and dont get the tap to shift functionality of the duramax. Predator also had my exhaust sitting on the cross members not in hangers, the transfer case didnt have the spacer installed giving it clearance and wore a whole in the case as a result of it, the front timing cover was put back on by predator with what appears to be bolts out of the scrap bin as only 2 were the correct bolts for the motor, the trans cooler they put in was in the worst possible spot and is way undersized and had no relay installed on the fan, they left the stock h2 gauge cluster so i had no wts light, the truck even though deleted had a california emissions ecm, the list goes on and on. I tried getting mine into predator to get some repairs done before i knew what i know now. They kept kicking me down the road and after about 6 months i was never able to get into them. To be completely honest they seem to be more concerned with looking like stars on youtube that properly building the damn truck.
In reading all the negative build comments about Predator, I was shocked and read similar in a H2 Conversion post on FB. I've heard many negative stories about both over the years, I've never spoken to either one, but this and the FB post got me thinking...... I'm currently helping a guy out (over the phone) to resolve issues with his 2008. One of the two mentioned, builders completed the conversion for him. Is it possible the same happed to your Predator conversion. The owner who had it converted, actually attempted himself or hired an in-experienced mechanic to save $$$. Conversion went south and could not complete it. They bit the bullet and sent it to Predator to complete. Predator and Mash are only going to touch the items they were contracted/paid to do. After completed, the H2 owner turned around and sold it as a "Predator" conversion. When in fact it was a botched home built conversion that Predator finished up the wiring and sent it on it's way. The guy I'm currently helping (for free) wanted a conversion, likely didn't want to pay the big bucks and found someone who committed to do it. It spent 1 year at his shop and he could not figure it out. This mechanic supposedly used to work at Predator and only touched parts of the conversion process. The 08 eventually ended up at 1of2 shops and was completed. Does that make it a "xxxxxxx" conversion? Of course not, but does make a good sales pitch. I can't believe that Predator would leave the TC rubbing on the crossmember. I don't even know how that would be possible, nothing needs customization there. With regards to the locking rear diff, the locking rear in an H2 is a CAN bus call for safety reasons, No Duramax of those years have the CAN Bus calls in their ECM and unless you keep AWD, like I do in my conversion, you have to do what everyone does when they install an aftermarket EATON locker. Wire it up per eaton instructions. Simple relay and switch. Predator has to know that, but if client didn't want to pay for it, it wont get done. Please be clear, I'm not picking a fight or doubting what you say. I'm only offering an alternative explanation to the issues you had.
In my opinion, the only problem with Mash and Predator is the exorbitant cost of their conversion services.
I recently joined the FB Duramax conversion group to do additional research on the process.
I did find a post with a photo talking about how Predator conversion left the tailshaft of a transfer case resting on a cross member supporting what Rebel had posted regarding the conversion on his H2. Check out the photo, name of the posters deleted
out of privacy respect.
One thing I can say for sure after hearing some of these issues, if your going to take the leap make sure you have a line item list of exactly what is to be done fully documented in a fully executed and notarized contract.
The last thing I would do is defend an over priced, over hyped company like predator or mash for that matter., but the point of my post was to question who was responsible for the hack job. I'm certain that predator would not do that to a customer spending 50k on a conversion. You'd have to go out of your way to get those results. Only way possible if there was no transmission mount. The first picture is from my current conversion. This is the 263HD transfer case, prior to deciding to go with BW 44-84 to retain AWD. As you know it's 2wd/4wd which all converters use. The second pick is the OEM transmission mount in its new position. It's not higher or lower. The height is determined by the mount. It would be impossible to rest the TC on the crossmember unless the transmission mount wasn't installed. I've never removed the Allison mount since no reason to do so. Predator absolutely knows this as well as any hobbyist. Again, I'm not doubting the OPs findings, I'm merely presenting a plausible alternative. Who knows, maybe mash wanted to diss the competor. My guess is predator was paid to do a specific task and "soon to be seller" wasn't willing to pay crazy prices to have it fixed. I think the blame belongs to the seller for not having predator fix all that was wrong. I can't believe I'm actually defending predator!! Clearence Factory trans mount
The facebook snippet of the transfercase is of my truck, and dont worry you arent offending me having a civil conversation for the benefit of others is never a problem in my opinion. From my conversations early on with predator and the invoices I have my truck was built at predator from day one but i can certainly see where that would be a problem where someone is just trying to flip the truck as a predator. I have developed a pretty decent relationship with Mike at Mash and i personally dont feel that he's feeding me a line of BS. Mike actually does talk highly about a few things that predator does and my personal views are that he actually went out of his way not to bash them i simply asked that he keep me informed along the way. I will agree with you that Predator and Mash are both expensive for the swap but the one thing I will say is i'm not ashamed of the word "Profit" like many people are. I run a small business, or three or four, myself and i know i'm not dealing with Unicef here -- they've got to make money and at least for everything he did for me i feel the costs were well in line with what they should be. The Transfer Case: According to Mike there was supposed to be a spacer that is installed to clearance the transfer case from the cross member and it appears as though predator did not have the spacer. In regards to the locker: I've never seen a predator build that has one - Its almost as though they just dont offer it. Mike was very up front about doing it on mine and put in two switches for it a locker enable and a locker activate button - to prevent accidentally engaging the locker. I mean it is possible the original owner didnt want it put back in but i'd think for the very nominal price to do it why not.
So as an aside I went to take my truck to a very well known diesel shop here in the Phoenix area for two things: 1. Oil Leak 2. Occasional longer starts -- The shop seemed very very informed on the H2's with the duramax and they actually had one in the shop i got to take a look at that they did the swap on themselves, Now i will say that the one they swapped had some issues of its own - had maybe a 4 inch body lift and just looked off, by the sounds of it the Fuel Gauge and some other things didnt work correctly either. Well that shop after having the truck for about 4 days said the oil leak was the oil pan gasket and that the long to start issue was needing a CP3. Well i had some doubts about this as i had crawled under the truck and looked for myself prior to taking it in also i questioned whether it needed the cp3. After calling a friend that owns a diesel shop 1500 miles away they asked me what the rail pressure looked like a few other things from the diag that this diesel shop did and they really doubted it needed a CP3. I spoke with the shop again they agreed to wash the bottom of the motor off and confirm it was the oil pan gasket and they also performed return rate tests -- after spending $600 for them to diag it they agreed that it wasnt in fact the oil pan gasket but the front timing cover but they also held firm that the truck needed a CP3 and they went on and on about how they've worked on thousands of duramaxes and this is what the problem is. The total estimate for timing cover gasket, Cp3 replacement, a larger trans cooler and i think that was all about $11,000 ---- After taking the truck to Mash it turns out the fuel filter housing was the culprit -- $165 later the occasional long to start issue was resolved!!
Great details, thank you. Doing a few conversions myself I'm alway curious how mine stack up against the big boy'$. It's always a gamble when buying a salvaged donor, that something may be wrong with the engine/trans. I've been lucky so far but do not like fixing knuckle busting mechanical issues. I've never dug into it but understand replacing the fuel pump is big bucks. Glad that wasn't your issue. A suggestion for others doing a swap, would be replacing the water pump regardless of mileage. My current build is the first I've done it. It's about a 30 min job with engine exposed as compared to several hours of knuckle busting work with body on. I've got 206k miles on my 2018 build that I still drive, with zero issues to date. That was my first AWD conversion. I think the duramaxes are extremely well designed and built. I've got an 08 gas powered in the driveway, but barely drive it, even though it's high quality interior and sound deadening. Just doesn't come close to diesel power. 08 is next up. I'm very curious about the spacer you mentioned. I can't see any reason for needing it. If yours is an 08/09, I do know the factory transmission mount is different than earlier H2's. Maybe that has something to do with it. Love a pic if you get a chance. I can't wait to get on the 08 and master something new. Another item I would suggest would be to buy yourself a wireless VCXNano, incredibly helpful to diagnose either H2 or Duramax side issues that may arise. It's like having a $5,000 GM scan tool in your glovebox.
Again, thanks to the contributors on this thread! Let's keep the dialog going,
I think as time goes one this will help sort out the pitfalls and help to make informed decisions on who out there we can trust to do a competent and cost effective DMAX conversion.
