My right rear window doesn’t go down with the main driver door controls but goes does with their individual door control, when i use all rolling down window buttons i can see every light in the vehicle twitch/dim for the moments i’m clicking it, also passenger no seat belt light is always on? and my factory radio had bad static when i connected bluetooth and turned music up but volume was down on the phone so i got a aftermarket dual tech radio installed from a shop and it’s all static non stop, when i turn music really high i can barely hear the static but i can listen to the volume without being annoyed with it being under 20 volume. wondering if i need a new battery or something.

 

Hummer h2 05 and also driver door doesn’t lock or unlock with my fob but the rest do and sometimes it gives like half effort unlocking/locking.

 

Wow that's a lot to digest and pick the bones out of.

Window Issues
The Drivers Window Switch (Drivers Door Module DDM) is likely to be the problem with the right rear window, maybe the DDM has been water damaged (ingress very common) ?

• Possibly needs a new Driver's Door Switch or the old one needs fixing (YouTube "Hummer H2 "005 - Drivers Door Module")

Global Windows Button dimming the lights
Do all the windows actually go Up & Down (you didn't say)?
Is the dimming the same with the engine running?

• If the Global Buttons do not work, this again points to the DDM.
• Excessive "dimming" could be the battery dying or under-rated but you can start the truck?

Radio Issues
Did the OEM factory radio come with Bluetooth? (not sure if it did)
Possibly a bad install, bad earth or some other wiring issue - surely it worked after the shop installed it, has it ever worked properly?

Driver's Door Lock
Does the door lock with the internal buttons?
Odd only the key fob doesn't work (not impossible)
A lazy lock could be the Door Actuator (not uncommon) either worn out or badly fitted. Could possibly be the DDM.

Seat Belt Light
No idea at the moment, perhaps someone else can advise.

Please keep us posted if this help and on anything you fix - thank you

 

Replied to the questions in your passage after each one, thank you for being so kind to help out.

 

OK doing my best to help you here.

Windows Issues
There are only two ways the rear window motor relay is activated:-

1. By the rear window switch alone which directly grounds the motor relay coil.
2. Or by the BCM body control module when it receives commands from the DDM again grounding the relay coil.

Fault suggests the following:-

• The wire from BCM Connector C6-A8 to the Right Rear Window Switch Pin-B is disconnected in some way.
• A faulty Window Switch - Note it contains the relays, cost circa $60 Rock
• Faulty window switch connector.
• Faulty BCM (hopefully not)

Hopefully it's just the wire, switch or connector.

Dimming
Yes of course the dimming only occurs when pressing the buttons, but is it worse or better with the engine running? Just thinking of low-power or excessive power issues when all windows are being driven (actually only 3 in your case)
You can buy cheap smart Battery testers, but maybe a local shop can test if for you, if it starts the vehicle it can't be all that bad.

Radio
"my factory radio had bad static when i connected bluetooth" - understand you now, but its difficult to advise specifically. Radio-tuned adapters are notorious.
"Never worked properly after they installed it" - I would take it back to them, they obviously failed to do the job satisfactorily. If they couldn't get it working then its difficult to know where they went wrong without pulling the dash apart and going through it all. Too many possibilities really.

Normally a new head unit install will keep the steering controls and chimes etc. using specialist modules such as a GMOS-04 (Amplified Interface) and a ASWC-1 (Steering Wheel Interface)


Driver's Door Lock
If the internal buttons (door switches) don't work then its unrelated to the fob. Could be:-

• DDM PCB or driver chip (if no voltage below) If you measure between GND and DDM C2-20 (Unlock) and C2-21 (Lock) you should read approx. 12V when activated, if not the it's the DDM.
• Door Actuator (seems lazy) If you unplug DDM C2 and check the continuity between C2-20 (Tan) and C2-21 (Grey) you should read low ohm of the actuator motor. If not check DDM C2 cabling, connector and wiring to Door Actuator.

Again please keep us posted.

 

Almost sounds like some corroded or bad grounds to me. That could potentially cause all of those issues and then some.

Apparently the static in the radio is not related to the radio itself, but the factory amplifier which is under the center console. That is still used in 99.5% of aftermarket stereo installs as bypassing the factory amplifier is a pretty major undertaking that requires full removal of the floor console and extending all of the speaker wiring to the dash where a stereo goes. If that static is coming from the amp, replacing the stereo will not make it stop.

Mine did dim a tiny bit as well with the global windows. That is somewhat normal since that is a pretty big load to run all 4 window motors at the same time.

I want to think there is a ground point at the base of the center pillar between the front and rear door. Been a while so I could be wrong. But if so, that would be a nice point with which to get grounds for both the rear door as well as the amplifier under the floor console. Might not be but possible related. Flaky grounds can cause all sorts of problems.