I got the harness and fuseblock from someone on Performancetrucks.net. GM classifies section has a couple of guys who pull them from junkyard 2003-2007 trucks/suvs that came with them. You must have a custom tune done to enable them in your PCM. The fans themselves I got for a full size GM truck (get the dual 9 blade ones) for 2003-2007 models. Yes, you will need to do something about the lower trans cooler line as well as both of the oil cooler lines. I have not yet decided how I'm going to deal with those just yet. The underhood fuse has a smaller triangular section towards the firewall (under the fender brace) where the factory fuse/relay module for electric fans mounts. You can use your existing shroud, just no way to access the relays/fuses without removing the fender brace and entire fuse box shroud is all. Trucks and SUV's that came with factory electric fans have a slightly different shroud which has a small additional lid for that triangle section.... This is the relay/fuse module installed on that corner of the fuse box (on the right towards the firewall). The other is the alternate fuse box shroud....

On my headliner - the local shop did not want to special order extra wide material. So I decided to go with a two tone theme. My steering wheel came with a black airbag but I changed it to a tan one - some H2's came stock with a tan airbag for a two tone look and some with a black one. That is why I went with that, to continue the two tone theme.

 

Love it! Ok, I'm going to go ahead and pick up this shroud fan fuseblock at the junkyard and get my PCM flashed. From the picture, I assume it just bolts on the right side of factory fuse block. Also, I'd love to see some pics of that two tone headliners. Here's the clip of the guy with the fiber optic cosmos Rolls Royce type headliner

 

I added a picture of the headliner to post #97 above... Yes the fuse/relay module has a round part that mates with that corner area of the fusebox. Note - if you try to remove one from a junkyard yourself, it is a good bit of work as the wiring is part of the forward lamp harness and must all be carefully cut out and separated. The main power is from one of the aux power studs on the fuse box (you can see them above). The other critical bit is you must also carefully remove the green and blue wires with the pins intact from the PCM connectors. Have to unbolt the connector from the PCM, then carefully remove the grey wiring cover, then carefully remove the translucent red or blue covers - once those are removed you can extract the pins. Those are required for PCM control which runs the fans based on temperature, for AC it runs them based on head pressures, it also shuts the fans off above 35 mph since it is pointless to run them at speeds. Some very informative threads on Perfomancetrucks on the conversion with screen shots of the settings, etc.

 

Hey, here is the email response I got from the guys who mounted that single row light bar inside the roof rack:

"This was a weekend custom project I had done because we had a set of old PUTCO single row lightbars laying around that we didn't know what to do with. The execution is actually quite easy as the factory rack crossmembers are hollow on the curved edge. I simply cut out a section the size of the bar lens and slid the bar in from one end and wired it up. It just happened to be the perfect thickness to hold itself in there tight without any mounting tabs needed. I am unsure if they still make that size bar or exactly what the dimensions were, we built that H2 in about 2016 and sold it in 2018. Glad you liked it and I hope that was enough info to get you on the path to duplicating it!"

 

Hi fastNYsix,

I'm a new H2 ('07) owner and I'm also in NY. If I can't find someone to figure out how to swap out the DRLs for fog lights.....can I pay you to do mine? In your opinion, are clear LEDs the best or amber? THANKS!!!

 

Hey Mixman, have you completed your electric fan conversion yet? I'm about to start mine and was making a list of everything I need:

1) tune PCM for electric fans
2) 9 blade electric fans
3) wiring harness
4) fuse block with triangular shroud
5) 08 h2 oil cooler lines
6) 08 h2 transmission cooler lines

Is there anything else I need? Any other pointers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I have not yet gotten around to it.... I did install the harness and new *** box shroud, pinned the harness into the PCM connectors but that is as far as I've gotten. Just have not had time to finish it.

Actually I think the best fans are the dual 7 blade. Not 100% sure if there is a 9 blade one. Been a while since I looked to see what was available though.

That should be it though. I know the upper trans cooler line to the radiator should be fine since that one just loops around to the front aux cooler. I've read that others were also able to bend their lines to fit but I cannot attest to that.

 

Ok, great keep me posted...i'm starting to collect the parts I will need. Meanwhile, I know you're big on choosing the correct lights for your rig. Give me your thoughts about these:





and these that come with the fog lights:

 

No idea on those lights.... without a pro or enthusiast doing an in depth review of the beam pattern, hot spot, actual lumens, etc I cannot say one way or the other. I'm pretty big on headlights that have a proper beam pattern without excessive glare up high or down low, etc so I will not buy one until I've seen an in depth review of one.

 

1. Hey MixMan...another thanks for your meticulous diagramming in installing that factor foglight button with the latching relay. I'm moving on to some other projects now. I currently have LED bulbs in the factory DRL housing but they really don't throw out much light to actually be considered foglights. I know you recommended sometime back going with Toyota lights. Do those housings really throw much light? I have a Denali with true foglights and they throw light almost as far as the headlights. I'm looking for a true foglight solution like that for my hummer that throws light far. The other solution I'm considering is leaving the DRLs turned foglights in place and mounting a 20 inch light bar flush in that divot right above the H2 skidplate but below the lower multi-holed grill plate beneath the brushguard. Just not sure how much light a light bar would throw that close to the road either. Any advice? Thoughts?

2. Also, looking to add 3 LED amber grill lights in the center 3 holes of the grill..similar to the Ford Raptor grill lights. Looks like we only have 2 inches per grill slot and I can mount them on the metal panel above. I really don't like the bolt light options. I found these, but the housing is too wide unless I mount them actually behind & across the grill on a big bracket that spans the 13 inches between the thin beams behind the grill. The first link is how they look on a GMC Sierra. The second link is the actually lights. Let me know your thoughts.