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i had to overpay at autozone for a duralast it cost me like $268 and i got 40 bucks back for the core. My starter had gone completely dead with no sign of it going bad in the middle of winter at the shopping mall parking lot. autozone just happened to be across the streat and only had 1 starter in stock.. at the end it was cheaper then getting towed and impound fees if left over night.
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update el cheapo starter cranked just fine.I think it could have a one year warrenty.
thanks calif phil for tip on a local rebuild place. I've actuely taken a starter apart there's not to much to it just a case w/ a magnet glued inside an an a shaft w/ a bunch of copper wire windings. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...6318d61765.jpg 12VDC trigger cable routing under starter doesn't seam correct? https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...245fd9c3cc.jpg I didn't take image of the before. the heat shield protected tape is less than a half inch from starter body.please advice on this cable being so close to starter an thanks. |
do not forget to put back the solenoid heat sheild. it helps prevent heat soak from the exhaust manifold.
your first post has a picture. maybe it will help you recall? |
Originally Posted by bronxteck
(Post 418879)
do not forget to put back the solenoid heat sheild. it helps prevent heat soak from the exhaust manifold.
your first post has a picture. maybe it will help you recall? I assume the heat shield will snap on while it's allready installed? no fastener needed? I'm concerned I didn't rout the 12vdc ignition trigger cable properly it's real close to the starter body? |
the sheild should just clip back but be real careful of the metal clips. they tend to want to touch the live battery terminals. last thing you want is super hot thin metal shorting.
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