Ok. I've searched the threads, and can't find a similar problem. So I'm adding to the '06 H3's list of electrical issues. Occasionally I have had the typical dead/low battery issue, and even heard my radio playing as if the key was in the ignition and in the accessory mode, though all keys were in the house on a key rack. However, this time's different.
Last week I cranked the H3 up, didn't giver her any warm up time at all, dropped it into reverse, and before I knew it she stalled out. I realized it wasn't running smooth before it happened, but have been getting CEL lately, but everytime it's been read it was a misfire (cylinder varies between 1 and 5, though I have changed out all plugs and coil packs). Anyway, I went to start it back up, and nothing. Radio and lights, door locks, etc all work. I didn't have time to look at it, I was just moving it so I could get my work van out of the driveway, so I left it where it was. The next day, I got down to some troubleshooting, and found the fuse to IGN 1 blown. Changed it, and it cranked right up.. For about 3 seconds... Checked, and sure enough, blown.... Changed it again, because now I'm curious, and turned the key... Nothing. Checked again, yup, blown fuse. A little investigation online, including wiring schematic, and checked Run/Crank relay and PCM relay, and they work fine... Going to get my own scanner, but.... Any ideas what to check next???? Oh, 2006 H3 with 125k miles. Original except radio (factory shorted out a few years back). And yes, I know about the proclivity for voltage issues and everyone's advice to change factory terminals. Right now what's there is clean, and voltage and battery is good. Consistently blowing fuses indicates a real and definite problem downstream..

 

Clearly you have proven that you have a short in your ignition circuit. Your ignition circuit is over drawing current and therefore popping fuses. Based on the wiring diagram IGN#1 (fuse 33) is a 15Amp fuse. This fuse supplies power to all five ignition coils, Park-Neutral-Position switch, and lastly the Clutch Start Switch. Check the following:


>Coils 1-5, check for shortages and resistance values
>PNP switch
>CSS switch (if applicable)


Note: You can check your coil packs with a multi-meter. Just find out what the resistance value should be and compare that with your measurements.

 

Thank you Alpine, will do when I get home tonight. I may have fallen victim to going cheap on my coil paks this last year.

 

SO.....GREAT NEWS!!! The BEAST lives!!! Shorted out coil packs at cylinder #2 & #5. I replaced all the coil packs when I failed my emissions test last year, got the ebay special 5 for $125.. Luckily I save the ones I knew were good. Reinstalled 2 original coil packs, and no more blown fuses, and runs good again... Now when I get a few bucks saved up, I'll bite the bullet and replace 'em all with OEM Delphi's again... THANK YOU Alpine001. Even with the wiring diagram, I just wouldn't have thought about the coil packs..
JT

 

I'm always glad when it works out well. Thanks for following up.

 

Its alive! You're welcome, and really, the solution was due to your beforehand troubleshooting. I personally always go with aftermarket coils that come with 'lifetime warranty' from my local parts store. Either way good work and hopefully this will help fellow members.

 

And its always good to have obd scanner, they are very handy and mostly pinpoint the cause, lots of cheap ones at amazon.