With brake applied though you should have 0 volts on green white wire, 12v on black green. If there is voltage on both with brake applied the stop lamp switch is not working correctly and sending voltage on both circuits at same time.

 

BTSI was good 13.74. At the plug/shifter connector green/white was good at 14v and then 0 with brake. Pink wire was good too. All wire/pins were approx 14V ...BUT...the yellow wire was 0 braking or not. WHats the yellow wire for? I have a note saying it is the Remote Shift Selector Signal. May I have to test against wire other than ground?

 

 

Yellow wire should have bat voltage when connector is plugged in and truck is in park

 

BTSI fuse volts were good at 13.7. All wires on the connected at the shifter were 14v and green/white went to 0v with braking EXCEPT the yellow wire was 0. My notes show yellow to be the Remote Shifter Selector Signal. Don't know what it does. Should it be 0 or do I need to test it differently? In gear or brake on or??? Thanks again.

Note--I'm guess that my earlier volt readings in my original post must have been low b/c I tested at the solder points were I repaired broken wires. I do have good reading at the pins but not the yellow.

 

So on the green white when I apply brake it goes from 14v to about 8v. It does not go to zero. Does this conclude I need to replace the stop lamp switch and is that in the fuse box?

Regarding the yellow wire ... What is "bat" voltage? It registers low, about 1 or so then I apply brake and it goes to 7 or so.

Again Thanks. Really appreciate your time helping.

 

So I replaced the brake lamp switch and same thing. Green/white runs 14v then I apply brake and it's at 8v. White button that should release on the solenoid sticks but will release with thumb pressure (sometimes need to push on it then again to get it to release) When installed to shifter it will not release. I tested the green/white wire at the brake lamp switch and register 14v then 8v. I even cut the green/white wire to have 0 volts and the white button still was difficult to release. Tried the old solenoid and same thing. Should it be completely free when releases or should it normally have a little pressure on it?
I'm at a loss especially after cutting the grn/wht wire. It should have worked. Hate to fork out $100 for shifter itself and it not be the issue. This is getting ridiculous. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

bat voltage is battery voltage, sorry used to shortening words

 

so you disconnected shifter connector and then tested green white wire with brake applied and it showed 8v?

 

Yes that's correct.