Here is a pic of the entire assembly as removed.

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/...psfajdlxor.jpg

I found a stat sheet for the t-case that says it is 90 lbs dry (and probably without the drive shaft). The 4L65E supposedly weighs in at 195 lbs dry (probably without the torque converter) and that fella was at least 50 lbs. And like an idiot I did not drain either one before removing. When the dipstick tube came out, it was a succession of dripping dextron for each time I lowered it. I was able to catch it in a coffee can... which I subsequently knocked over. When I lifted the assembly up to wheel it over to the shed, all the fluid came out the tail of the t-case. Just another day at the office.
Technique only: use the drain plugs, they are there and will make things lighter...

 

Dayum. Guess I missed the part where you were not splitting the t-case and tranny, but I must have skimmed right over that part. No wonder it was a bee-otch getting the assembly out! Great pic.

 

Well done sir, at least it wasn't...

Step 1 remove Cab
Step 2....

BTDT on some stuff that sucks...

 

I can't see how it's possible to split the two on the vehicle. Maybe when I separate them it will become clear. Did not look like sufficient room without removing the torsion bar cross member (and therefore the torsion bars). And I did not research how to do that. But maybe that is the way to get it back in? Otherwise, I am still undecided. I had the bell housing section pretty much on the floor (sitting on my jack fully lowered) and the tail of the t-case sort of fell out on its own at the end there. Let's just say "grace" is not in my vocab...

yrkdmaxh2, it was not as bad as a heater core, but on the other hand, doing it on the ground, and trying to be careful, I probably stood up and repositioned myself like 50-100 times from each side of the truck and in the front. It was time consuming and a PITA.

 

Getting older, that's the stuff that kills me, the up and down and rolling under and out from under. Feels like I just got off the Rockin' Rollercoaster for the 4th time!

 

Yeah I hear ya guys. Wish I was in my 20's again.

Had to do a pitman arm on my Duramax in my driveway. That sucked enough.

I try to do everything now on a lift lol.

Too many issues from accidents and just getting old haha.

 

Long story short: I got the transmission back into the Hummer. I put in the tranny, then added the transfer case to the back instead of doing it as all one assembly. The only part I needed help with was lifting the transfer case as I was on jack stands and it was just too awkward to lift on a jack and have it at the notionally 45 degree angle it needs to be to hook up. I forgot to put the gasket between the two, so I have to take the tcase back out this weekend. It's hardly leaking, just a tiny seep between the two. Regardless, I bought new u-joints all around and am replacing those as well. On top of all that, my water pump is also slowly leaking so getting one of those this weekend too. That will be a mess to get to with all the intercooler piping from the blower on top and in front of the wp... Wish me luck, the saga continues. Transmission shifts smooth as butter. Not much wrong with it. 3-4 clutches were burnt. Steels were bent. The molded pistons were brittle (not crazy, but bad enough to probably cause the death of the 3-4 clutch pack). One of the sprag assemblies showed some wear, and the stator on the pump had some scoring. The thing with the rebuild is you have to order the kit, do a bunch of inspection on disassembly, do more inspection on reassembly, and stop and order "batch 2" of parts for anything that you find worn while inspecting, so it took a couple months going slow, taking vacations, etc. But probably is a 2-week saga regardless. Cheers!

 

Glad to hear you got it all back together, and the part about doing the transfer case separately. Any trick to it?

 

No tricks as of yet. I suspect I may be able to pull it down without even removing the transmission brace/support. Just disconnect the drive shafts, then remove the six nuts that hold the t-case to the transmission, and the two electrical connectors. Draining the t-case first may be a good idea too because it's going to get vertical to remove it while missing the torsion bar support brace aft and below the t-case.