|
Torsion Key Vs. Leveling Kit
The guy that does work on my car says he does not think I can level it with the torsion key and the lift.. I am real detailed with things I want to do with my h3 and looking at it sometimes I think it needs the levling kit.. whats the deal?
|
The leveling kits that I have seen come in two flavors.
1. You turn up the stock torsion bars and add new Bilstein front shocks. 2. You purchase new torsion keys from someplace like ReadyLift or Procomp, which typically come with front shock spacers so you can use the stock shocks. Now there are lots of people here that will say you can turn up the stock torsion bars and leave the shocks alone. Being I'm a mechanical engineer, I don't buy it. You cannot raise a vehicle 2.25" and not run into a problem at some point with shocks meant for a shorter travel. Lots of people on here look to go the cheapest way they can ... if it seems to work ... then it must ... right? I truely feel the right way to do it is a combo of 1 & 2. Install new torsion keys along with new front shocks. But again, any and all methods have been tried and nobody seems to have a complaint about any of them. So I would say it's what you feel comfortable with. Remember with any of them, you will need a front end alignment. Hope this helps more than confuses the issue. I can bet you get many more responses that all say something different :) |
aaahhhh the neverending question....
Go here http://www.clubhummeroffroad.com/for...d=1#post174189 everything you need to know is there. |
Originally Posted by WarMongur
(Post 233745)
The leveling kits that I have seen come in two flavors.
1. You turn up the stock torsion bars and add new Bilstein front shocks. 2. You purchase new torsion keys from someplace like ReadyLift or Procomp, which typically come with front shock spacers so you can use the stock shocks. Now there are lots of people here that will say you can turn up the stock torsion bars and leave the shocks alone. Being I'm a mechanical engineer, I don't buy it. You cannot raise a vehicle 2.25" and not run into a problem at some point with shocks meant for a shorter travel. Lots of people on here look to go the cheapest way they can ... if it seems to work ... then it must ... right? I truely feel the right way to do it is a combo of 1 & 2. Install new torsion keys along with new front shocks. But again, any and all methods have been tried and nobody seems to have a complaint about any of them. So I would say it's what you feel comfortable with. Remember with any of them, you will need a front end alignment. Hope this helps more than confuses the issue. I can bet you get many more responses that all say something different :) BTW I had my tbars cranked 3" or 2.75" |
matter of fact,,
the shock on a cranked truck would be less likely to bottom out as the wheel goes up since its higher,and the bump stop would stop it.
at the other end,going down,the shock is the only thing to limit travel of the suspension,so it keeps the stuff from falling apart,and more so on a cranked trk. a longer shock might let the wheel fall enuf to loose the axel,,as we have heard about,,?? just fwiw tom |
So...you mean cranking the T-bars keeping the factory shocks as long as you do the alignment after cranking it is just okay especially to people who never go off- roading????? No need for bump stops either???
Just asking and needing an answer for anyone concerned...pulleeezzz!!!!!:) |
yeah,just align
when u crank tbars you whack the factory spec alignment.
u never really get that back but a new alignment compromizes and gets back close to the right place. you wont hurt shocks,they are the stopper for down travel. bump stop keeps from metal to metal smashing on hard bumps,keeps it quiet. if u never hit bottom u get a softer ride. no need to change except for ego listings of mods. |
Great info there Tom Thanks a lot!!!;)
|
In my experience, there is a night and day difference in the ride quality after adding Bilsteins and bumpstops. I cranked the tbars and had an alignment done and after I noticed the marked difference in ride quality and hearing my shock bottom out on any little dip in the road, I decided it was time for new shocks and the bump stops were cheap, so I put those on there too.
Like I said, this was my experience and the way it brought my truck back to near factory ride quality, made the $200 for the shocks/stops entirely worth it for me. |
Originally Posted by drtom
(Post 233773)
the shock on a cranked truck would be less likely to bottom out as the wheel goes up since its higher,and the bump stop would stop it.
at the other end,going down,the shock is the only thing to limit travel of the suspension,so it keeps the stuff from falling apart,and more so on a cranked trk. a longer shock might let the wheel fall enuf to loose the axel,,as we have heard about,,?? just fwiw tom
Originally Posted by RaYoSeKiZ
(Post 233775)
So...you mean cranking the T-bars keeping the factory shocks as long as you do the alignment after cranking it is just okay especially to people who never go off- roading????? No need for bump stops either???
Just asking and needing an answer for anyone concerned...pulleeezzz!!!!!:)
Originally Posted by drtom
(Post 233778)
no need to change except for ego listings of mods.
Originally Posted by H3DONIST
(Post 233786)
In my experience, there is a night and day difference in the ride quality after adding Bilsteins and bumpstops. I cranked the tbars and had an alignment done and after I noticed the marked difference in ride quality and hearing my shock bottom out on any little dip in the road, I decided it was time for new shocks and the bump stops were cheap, so I put those on there too.
Like I said, this was my experience and the way it brought my truck back to near factory ride quality, made the $200 for the shocks/stops entirely worth it for me. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:29 AM. |
© 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands