Think I broke another differential (maybe a false alarm now)
ORIGINAL: importkiller
was there an accumalation of snow on the ground ? If the roads were just wet then it may have not needed 4 lock. 4 lock changes the ratio between the front and rear and on pavement it will cause lurches , especally when making turns.
was there an accumalation of snow on the ground ? If the roads were just wet then it may have not needed 4 lock. 4 lock changes the ratio between the front and rear and on pavement it will cause lurches , especally when making turns.
Main thing to remember is when you can't go move in snow (or mud) without a problem than that is time to lock it in 4 HI. In most cases you don't even need 4 HI unless you are driving in a heavy snowstorm with AWD.
Well, the only reason I did it was because I hadn't put it in 4 Hi since my differential brackets were fixed back in August. Everybody says its good to put it in 4 HI every once in a while to get the gear oil to mix so it doesnt settle and get thick. I don't know how true that is though, but I've been told it 100 times.
I drove the H3 last winter through some really nasty snow storms, and I never put it in 4 HI because the AWD system seems to e really awsome in any slipper situation. I drove it through some nasty mud one time and I literally tried to spin the wheels and couldn't. I don't see a need to ever put it in 4HI unless I get stuck or like you said its really really bad out.
Is there any validity to that oil thickening theory? If it's AWD shouldn't the parts all be moving at one time or another anyway?
I drove the H3 last winter through some really nasty snow storms, and I never put it in 4 HI because the AWD system seems to e really awsome in any slipper situation. I drove it through some nasty mud one time and I literally tried to spin the wheels and couldn't. I don't see a need to ever put it in 4HI unless I get stuck or like you said its really really bad out.
Is there any validity to that oil thickening theory? If it's AWD shouldn't the parts all be moving at one time or another anyway?
Well, it's definitely broke again. It's the same thing as before, the bushings that hold it on must have cracked, again. The same symptoms as before, progressively getting worse, the clanking, the jerking, etc. I'll take it in once I recover from the move.
In a two wheel drive vehicle, it's good about once a month to put it in 4 wheel drive to keep everything lubricated. In an all wheel drive vehicle, the only difference between 4 high and 4 high lock is the locking of the center differential. All the parts are turning and all the fluids are being warmed up all the time.
I agree with importkiller and H3_Hummer. Wet isn't really "slick" and with a locked diff, all the minor rotational differences between F & R axles accumulate as extra torque on the system thats "locked in" unless there's some wheel spin...or something breaks. Same thing can happen when the rear locker is engaged on pavement. Jeep sold a lot of half axles to people who learned the hard way not to put it into 4WD on the pavement.
Glad to hear the symptom cleared up after more driving. If it happens again, find a gravel road, and I'll bet the "lurching" goes away immediately.
Glad to hear the symptom cleared up after more driving. If it happens again, find a gravel road, and I'll bet the "lurching" goes away immediately.
Well, I got the car back, and they couldn't find anything wrong. They say the bushings I broke the last time are fine. I know it isn't acting normal. HummerMike suggested I wait until it gets worse so that the problem is more apparent. I took it to his dealer in Indiana. The guys there are great but said they couldn't find it. I may take it to my dealer at the beginning of the year, but they are just so damn far now. It's very frustrating.
There's nothing more frustrating than a situation like this. You know there's a problem but the dealer can't figure it out. In most cases like this it's always best to wait a little while and see if the noise gets louder and then take it back. Then they can't tell you there isn't a problem and have to tear it apart. I always wanted to stand next to the tech when they worked on my car just to see for myself, but we all know that can't happen! You could always try re-creating the time when you heard it break. That could escalate the situation a little bit too but if it broke all the way you might be calling onstar.
ORIGINAL: HummerMike
There's nothing more frustrating than a situation like this. You know there's a problem but the dealer can't figure it out. In most cases like this it's always best to wait a little while and see if the noise gets louder and then take it back. Then they can't tell you there isn't a problem and have to tear it apart. I always wanted to stand next to the tech when they worked on my car just to see for myself, but we all know that can't happen! You could always try re-creating the time when you heard it break. That could escalate the situation a little bit too but if it broke all the way you might be calling onstar.
There's nothing more frustrating than a situation like this. You know there's a problem but the dealer can't figure it out. In most cases like this it's always best to wait a little while and see if the noise gets louder and then take it back. Then they can't tell you there isn't a problem and have to tear it apart. I always wanted to stand next to the tech when they worked on my car just to see for myself, but we all know that can't happen! You could always try re-creating the time when you heard it break. That could escalate the situation a little bit too but if it broke all the way you might be calling onstar.
That's ok. They are really nice, but I still think before we do the show I may take it back to my dealer. It's just SUCH a pain in the !@#$. I'll give them one more chance though. I am waiting for it to get worse. It's not TOO bad, not as bad as it was the first time, but I think it is something different. This time it sounds like it's coming from inside the diff or trans. I know for sure it's not supposed to jerk around like that when you take your foot off the gas. The guys at Weil noticed it right away when they drove it and fixed it, but because the guys at Schepel have never seen or worked on a Manual before, they said that it "seemed normal" like every other stick, but I told them this isn't like a normal stick. It's supposed to be smooth and used to be, and they even market it that way. I'm starting to think I have 1 of 10 Manual H3's out there lol.


