Sunroof Drain Upgrade
 

Progress so far in my attempt to develop a more permanent maintenance solution:

For the past few years I've just been clearing the front to sunroof drains with compressed air at the roof openings. This time around, the passenger side was plugged to the point where it wouldn't open up even with 40 psi (my limit to keep the tubes from popping off of the suroof drain pan). As a last ditch effort, I filled the clogged drain with water and a squirt of dishwashing detergent and let is sit. After an hour, the drain then cleared with only 25 psi applied.

In the mean time, I pulled out the wheel well liner and for the life of me I couldn't find the outflow end of the drain anywhere. When I had the drain cleared and was flushing it out with clean water, I could then see at least generally where the front sunroof drain should be located. It looks like it drains out in the same place as the cowl intake vents up inside that closed off area of the fender.

So it seems that to get to the front drain ends one must pull the dash to get at them from the inside or remove the "air intake" trim pieces and maybe the cowl cover grill to get at them from the outside.

Anyone know how to remove the air intake trim pieces?

They are held on with 3 clips. Just pull up and they will come off.

NJTEX.....keep us posted as to your findings......I'm sure the majority of the owners on this forum would appreciate it!!:D:D

Okay, I popped off the air intake and it was "close but no cigar". There's a layer of sheet metal forming the top of the inner fender still in the way. The front drain outlets are located in a triangular boxed section right below the A-pillar, firewall, and inner fender sheetmetal. The only way to get access to the box section would be to remove the fenders and then one still might not be able to work on the drain ends because the space is so small.

I'm 99% positive now that the best access to the drain outlets is from under the dash or to remove the dash if needed. That's my project for this coming weekend.

(BTW, I found a handfull of mud/muck under the air intake and two handfulls of the same packed down by the front rocker panel behind the fender liner. Constant wet muck sitting on sheet metal isn't a good thing so I cleaned it all out with a garden hose. If you want to keep your truck forever, clean out these areas each spring!)

I tried this a couple months back. We got a ton of rain and it soaked my floor! On one of the dry days i completely removed all of that... inner fender well, fake air intake covers, cowl where the wipers are... all of it. You cant get to the location from the outside. The actual drain location is concealed by a bunch of metal like NJ said. Once I had all of that removed I poured water down the drain near the sunroof (drivers side) and it just leaked down through all that metal like a little maze! couldnt see where it actually came from. I wish i would have taken some pics but i didnt think about it.
If you look up under the dash you can see where the drain tube connects to the firewall. I pushed on it a few times (towards the front of the vehicle) to make sure it was completely seated. (i will try to take a pic of it and post it later if anyone cant find it.)
as it has been said MANY times before, i like the sunroof but it is a big pain when it (or the drain tubes) leaks!

I finally could not take the wet carpets anymore and decided to attempt the modifications. I can tell you they definitely seemed to work. My front and rear passenger side sunroof drains were clogged. My hands are alittle scratched up, but aother than that not too difficult. I removed the plugs from the firewall and drilled out the plugs. Thanks for this good forum of information.

Hey everyone, I want to thank all of you guys on here that have taken the time to write about your situation with this annoying water leak. Just want to throw in my own experience on my fix, after a week of rain and a lake inside my passenger side i decided to blew out the drains with compressed air. Unfortunately they were to clogged that they ended up disconnecting from the top and firewall side. I started to take the cowl, fender well , and part of the dash off. My main problem was the passenger side other sides were OK. Once i started to take part of the dash off i decided to try and find the connecting end on the firewall side had a hard time finding its location. if you take the plastic off the side and expose the inside of the dash there is a metal bar that helps holds the dash together. Its a tight squeeze but if you put your hand behind that and feel around you'll find the placement on the firewall where the end of the drain hose connects too. took a hose with a 90'' angle plastic end and blew it completely out with compress air until i heard it blow out without a problem. Put the drain hose back into the firewall, poured water through the top and flowed out like magic by the fender. Put everything back together and cant wait for it to rain now!! Thanks you guys for your post and hope mine comes in handy.

Its all Greek to me. I attempted my own fix as well. Called the dealer, they wanted 8-10 hrs of labor at $100 an hour to do it. Im not mechanically inclined so me and my buddy tried it. The dealer said the drains were under the cowel...so we removed the cowel, wipers, hood, and couldnt find it. Should have read this thread and pulled the dash instead. After reading this thread, I still have no clue how to fix it. If someone wants to take pictures and do a step-by-step instructions "for dummies", I would appreciate it. mkhicks@coventryct.org is my email. Otherwise, Ill try it myself. lol.

Also, I have State Farm for insurance and since the carpets got soaked and water was also leaking out of my Onstar microphone, they are going to give me money for repairs. Hopefully it will be $1000, then I will just have the dealer do it. lol.

Mike:mad:

I used a piece of trimmer line, worked it in and our of each hole, while pouring soapy water into the hole, took some time but I gotem cleared out. My "grass gator zip line pro" trimmer line is only.105, I will get some thicker line for next time. The front drains run through the firewall under the dash, drivers side is up behind the tach, passenger side is behind the right side dash cover that pops out.

One question...

I understand the drains getting clogged and all...but where the hell is the water coming in? I have like a gallon everytime it rains...pours all over my lap...weather stripping looks good...where does the water get in usually????

X2:rolleyes:

lol, had it happen to me.... argghhhh... not anymore... btw, those are air tight seals, not water tight.. If the channel is filled up with water, the water finds the lowest exit=drains, or if drains are clogged, it is inside the cabin. :eek:

Water can come in around the entire edge of the sunroof but mostly around the front edge. Your sunroof may be out of adjustment as well as the drains being clogged. It kind of amazes me that the sunroofs seal so poorly on this vehicle.

Tell me about it. This is stupid. Finally talked State Farm into paying for new weather stripping, sealant, and labor on those parts...equals about $300. The other $700 that the dealership wants will come out of my pocket.

I dont think new seals will stop the leak? they are not watertight.... the motor only closes the window and doesn't put much pressure on it to seal???

clean the drain tubes!!!!!


drivers side drain is under the dash behind the tachometer, (grommet attached to the tube) you can pull it out of the firewall if need to and push it back in when cleared..

Attachment 13884


Passenger side is behind the side dash cover (look in towards the firewall/ upwards and you can pull it out):


Attachment 13885



Now you have both ends of the drain tubes: Upside is in front of the sunroof channels both corners, and lower sides are shown above... Clean the tubes and push the tube grommets firmly back into the firewall...

That is actually the most helpful post I've seen. Thanks a lot Hummerz. Ill give it a go.

Sunroof leaking and Switch Malfunction
 

Have an '06 H3. Sunroof is leaking and water is coming through OnStar mic. I'll check for clogged drain tubes which seems to be a common problem. Sunroof switch seems to be malfunctioning. To close the sunroof I believe the switch needed to be pushed and released. It then closed to the point where it sealed. Now I have to hold the switch in the forward position until I think it is closed all the way. Any ideas? It may just be that the switch needs to be replaced. Thanks in advance for any advice.

There is a SUNROOF MOTOR/ACTUATOR INITIALIZATION/TEACH PROCESS in the Service Manual for if you have replaced the actuator motor or an interuption has happend 3 times. Perhaps it has lost it's calibration on it's own. Can't hurt to try. Here it is.

2. Turn the ignition to ON.
3. Completely close the sunroof window with the manual close switch.
4. Press the sunroof vent switch to the vent open position until the sunroof window stops,and continue holding the switch for at least 10 seconds.

Sunroof Switch Solution
 

Thanks much for the suggested solution. I don't have a service manual but should probably get one. Need to reset the tire pressure monitors as well as the shop that rotated the tires must not have reset them.

TPMS Sensor Identification Codes
Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. Any time you replace one or more of the TPMS sensors, install the spare tire onto your vehicle, or rotate your vehicle’s tires, the identification codes will need to be matched to the new tire/wheel position. The sensors are matched to the tire/wheel positions in the following order: driver’s side front tire, passenger’s side front tire, passenger’s side rear tire, and driver’s side rear tire using a TPMS diagnostic tool.
See your dealer for service.

The TPMS sensors may also be matched to each tire/wheel position by increasing or decreasing
the tire’s air pressure. If increasing the tire’s air pressure, do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure indicated on the tire’s sidewall.

You will have one minute to match the first tire/wheel position, and five minutes overall, to match all four tire/wheel positions.

If it takes longer than one minute, to match the first tire and wheel, or more than five minutes
to match all four tire and wheel positions the matching process stops and you will need to start over.

The TPMS sensor matching procedure is outlined below:

• 1. Set the parking brake.

• 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON with the engine off.

• 
  3. Turn the exterior lamp switch from AUTO to ON four times within three seconds. A double horn chirp will sound and the TPMS low tire warning light will begin to flash. The double horn chirp and flashing TPMS warning light indicates the TPMS matching process has started. The TPMS warning light should continue flashing throughout the matching procedure. The SERV TPM message will be displayed on the Driver Information Center (DIC).

• 4. Start with the driver’s side front tire.

• 5. Remove the valve cap from the valve cap stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire’s air pressure for 10 seconds, then stop and listen for a single horn chirp. The single horn chirp should sound within 15 seconds, confirming that the sensor identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position.

• ( If you do not hear the confirming single horn chirp, you will need to start over with step number one. To let air-pressure out of a tire you can use the pointed end of the valve cap, a pencil-style air pressure gage, or a key.)

• 
  6. Proceed to the passenger’s side front tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

• 
  7. Proceed to the passenger’s side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

• 8. Proceed to the driver’s side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5.

• 
  9. After hearing the confirming horn chirp for the left rear tire, check to see if the TPMS warning light is still flashing. If it is, turn the ignition switch to LOCK. If the TPMS warning light is not flashing, the five minute time limit has passed and you will need to start the process over beginning with Step 1.

• 
  10. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label.

• 
  11. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

• 12. Start vehicle and warning light should be off or drive vehicle and warning light should go off within 1 mile.

Thanks again for the advice. I'm sure this will save me big bucks if I can figure out how to do it myself. I just ordered a DVD-ROM service and repair manual for my Hummer off eBay. These are fairly complex beasts when you start getting in to it.

Sunroof Switch express open/close fixed
 

I tried the procedure you outlined. It took several attempts but the system relearned the express open/close. On mine to get the express close to engage you must hit the button twice. I don't know if that is normal, but if it isn't I can live with the minor incovenience. Thanks again for the help. Next project, unclog the drain tubs and adjust tire pressure monitors. Bought some thicker string trimmer line this weekend and will use that to clean out drain tubes.