service stability system traction failed reduced power
 

2006 H3 Adv. 87,000 miles, owned 4 weeks. CLEAN! Like new all over and under. We drove it to the grocery store, got back in and this started. Limp mode all the way home, let it sit for an hour, cranked it up and its gone. Runs fine now but for how long. So it just reset itself as if it never happened.


Obviously I'm not the first one this has happened to but it seems like everything I read was something different or a bunch of maybe this or that. Some of the posts are 5 years old too. I do also have a passenger side power seat switch malfunctioning and just went through all 4 sunroof drains (floor was damp). Any ideas of what it usually is. Where to start? Connections to anything else?


I am a pretty darn good mechanic. I can service most anything and replace most anything but I don't have a code reader to plug it into. If it needed a water pump, new U-joints or a brake job I'm your man.
Any experienced help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you,

Ok i will throw out a few suggestions, First check throttle body and make sure it is clean because these can lead to codes going off, Stop down to autoparts store and have them read codes and make sure there reader can read the abs codes also. A rule of thumb is to correct the first code first and not just correct every code thrown. Get throttle body cleaner when you are there and clean it even if it looks good usually the dirt is behind the throttle blades and unless you remove it it really wont be clean. This is a place to start and let us know how you progress.

Hi enjoy your hummer h3. Lol!
Let's get started. ....
* replacement battery connectors
* clean MAF
* clean TB
* replace spark plus with oem ac delco
* check pcv hose under air resonator (mine was dry rotted)
* check air filter
* check codes (code reader is available at HF)
* check for water intrusion on C.O.P at position 3 & 5
* also if BCM got wet dry it out thoroughly with hair dryer/fan
I believe that the BCM getting wet may be the 1st place to start.

Chris

I just had this happen on our 2010 impala. had the codes read and it was the gas pedal
I replaced that and have not had anymore problems. Im not sure if we have the drive by wire or not ,but get the codes read. it is the best advice

Pleas help me
 

I am unsure if this is the post for what I am about to write. However, yesterday i got a totally different "sign" from the vehicle.
I will write the same as I wrote on a post that is very old, in this post so that anyone can read what my car has been doing.

My 2007 H3 has has been hesitating since May 2014. It hesitates at low idle, but will eventually start to turn off.
I got a "Misfire" code from Onstar and Pepboys gave me three codes which are P0300, P2101, P0102, and P0151.

The parts that have been changed so far are:
Radiator
Thermostat
Engine coolant.
Mass air flow sensor.
All coils.
All spark plugs.
Throttle body cleaned three times.
Camshaft sensor
a relay plug was cleaned
NOTE: I do not recall other sensors names, bu my mechanic says that all sensors in the car have been replaced with new ones.
Also, just before i took the car back to the mechanic, something told me to start moving wires in the car and I did. There is this plug that when i grabbed it the car turned off and this is when the mechanic said to change the camshaft sensor and this relay was cleaned (it goes in the back of the engine on the right hand side).

So yesterday I was asked to take the car and drive it after a camshaft sensor. I drove the car maybe 3 miles, picked up a friend. while I waited for my friend i decided to grab this relay and move it around. The minute i grabbed it the car started hesitating badly. So i went back to the mechanic, however, I was out of luck, he was already closing the shop.
Nonetheless, while i explains this to him i walked over to the car because he asked if any signs came on.
When I looked inside the car a sign said "TRACTION FAILED SERVICE TABS SYS". the engine light came on a bit after and then another light came on (i think it is the traction light because i see a little car image like its skidding)

so I google this new sign and this is how i ended up here.

On another post it say that a plug is loose at the transfer case and another loose plug located underhood at the PCM.
someone posted that he had to change the Transfer Case Control Module- TCCM.
another posted that he had to change the YAW Sensor due to a sunroof clogged drain (clogged drain was done but no YAW sensor changed)
Yet another said to cycle the 4WD buttons 50 times (DONE and nothing).

Meanwhile, I have been spending about $500 dollars monthly since May, to no avail.

When the car went to the dealer the dealer cleaned the throttle body and then told me it was dirty. My answer was that the TB had been cleaned two days before. They still charged me $193 dollars. Now watch this, 15 minutes after i left the dealer the problem was back so I drove back. The dealer then said "Nothing shows up on the computer and the only thing I can suggest is to take the entire engine out and check the inside"
The price for that: $3500 Dollars (without any actual fixing) The dealer also said that a the very least I was looking at $7000 dollars for ny repairs. WTF! how do they charge for something they can't even tell?

code p2101
 

It only threw one code P2101 so I gonna start from the list and see where it takes me.
Hard to work on it when it runs so good now. Even the check engine light went off.
Thanks a bunch

P2101:

1. Check battery cables.

2. Check that battery voltage remains above 10 V while cranking.

3. Clean throttle bore out, with throttle plate held open.

4. Check (TAC) Motor Connector

5. Check Intake Manifold Bolts

6. Clear codes, recheck operation.

7. If same, watch TP1 and TP2 for status in ECM data, should indicate AGREE at all times.

GL

ALL those codes point to the same possible cause----> Intake Manifold Leak. Check/Tighten those intake manifold bolts. GL

Also the map sensor is on the right side back and if this is bad will cause random errors to show uo also if rubber seal on sensor is bad will cause manifold leak

Mine did that once when the electronics behind the glove box got wet because of the sunroof drains. If it happened right around the time of the drain problem you mentioned I'll bet that was the culprit. Mine luckily dried out and it rest and has not been back since been like 3 or 4 years now. Good luck!

Took off throttle body and cleaned.
MAF, map sensor clean
PVC and Air Filter good
unplugged and reconnected
BCM is dry
Only code was p2101
She ran great yesterday
Battery cables are clean and tight.

Battery was dead as a hammer this morning so I'm thinking that may be where this all started.

Do you have the original OEM battery cable connectors?
If so, then replace them with good quality connectors.
The crappy OEM connectors are the main cause of MANY problems with these trucks.

I'm at the mechanic right now
 

The mechanic is checking the car as I write this.
Since I read online that problem is electrical and to check wires, I decided to just start grabbing wires and move them a bit, just to see.
When I moved the wires and relay for bass pump, right where the manifold goes, the car hesitated like crazy and even turned off twice. Then a sign came up: TRACTION FAILED SERVICE TABS SYS. And Then I got codes P0106, P0107, C0268
I told a mechanic what I'd did and he was able to replicate the hesitation three times.
The mechanic has been checking everything by the manifold but nothing so far. They took the manifold out and a cover on the right side tire. NOTHING! But every time he moves those wires the car hesitates and or shuts off.
It's taking a long day but it seems that I was able to find what professional mechanics and the dealer where I bought the car could not since May 2014.
This is ridiculous.
I'll take any suggestions if possible right at this moment because the car is right at the mechanic

P0106 is map sensor, it is located on drivers side rear on intake manifold, This is either good or bad and cleaning it will not solve issues. You can check this with vac.pump and watch voltage change as vacuum is applied. This is totally different from maf sensor located on intake tube

So far you've had plenty of volunteers, but we know what volunteers are worth. They are trying to be helpful, but........ :rolleyes:

I do not understand why peeps throw out codes and what to do about them when your OP has no code mentioned?????? Your problem is electrical, not mechanical.

It can come from 3-4 different areas. Based upon your info, a wet BCM from the sunroof drains being plugged is one.

Do you still have the OEM for crap battery terminal connectors? If you do, get rid of them ASAP and replace with a quality aftermarket set to rule out that all too common cause of electrical gremlins.

Check battery cranking volts, a battery that is on its way out can cause your issues.

Limp mode is a default safety feature, if it kicked in without a CEL, it makes it more difficult to trace its cause. This will happen when there is any conflict between the PPS (Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor) and the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), and also from a speed sensor failure. Long explanation not needed.

Serv Stab & Traction Failed can come from a bad TCCM which is located next to the BCM and does not like to get wet either. It has been related to a bad T Case Encoder motor as well if it gets too wet (like stuck in deep water wet).

Best I can suggest without a code for a one time incident is the battery terminals and battery itself. At this point, not much you can do about a BCM or TCCM that got wet except hope they don't puke. If the problem becomes persistent, then you may look further.

Once you reported a code, then check back at Hummerz post and get rid of the OEM battery terminal connectors.

Good luck.

Are you still using the OEM terminal connectors????? THIS IS IMPORTANT.

If so, there is no such thing as "tight", they just SUCK!!!!!

I apologize for being a peep doc i promise not to throw out any more suggestions as they seem to be nothing more than mouth dribble to you. If you take some time to read the previous post by gp1182 you would have understood my response. I will refer all questions back to you as you are not only the moderator but a know it all

My observation was directed at the many peeps (people) that jump in with answers to questions not asked. That would not have been you, but thank you for your compliments and kind concern. :p

What I was trying to sarcastically emphasize is, when a post asks questions A, or say A & B, why do so many people end up talking about Q, R, S and T? Attachment 11863

No I have not changed the battery cable ends yet, but its on the list to happen this next weekend. The battery being dead the other morning was unrelated, wife left dome light on by accident. Charged it, had it tested all is good.
Truck is still running good too. No more codes. Nothing at all out of the ordinary. I unplugged and cleaned everything I could get my hands on. Wiggled everything. fingers crossed!
Thanks for all the info. It helped me get an idea of where to look. I will re-post if anything new happens.

If anyone is interested I did run new hoses out the floor on my front sunroof drains and was able to cut trim the ends of the rear ones without removing the rear fender flare. I just dropped the end fender rubber down and had plenty of access. They all drain like they are supposed to now!

If everything is working properly, the Dome Light should have turned off in 20 minutes due to the power save feature. If you leave the key in the ignition, especially if you have multiple keys on the ring, I have had the switch rotate to the ON position before. Good Luck.