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New LED's now no cruise
Just installed LED tail lights, now I don't have cruise control. Checked fuses and circuits, all good. How can I retain these lights and get my cruise control back?
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That's weird...sometimes you need to put a resistor in line to keep the signals from blinking too fast....don't know if that would affect the cc tho?
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It for sure will affect the cruise control. The resister will solve your problem for sure.
Leds draw very little amperage as compared to normal filament bulb |
Originally Posted by CudaJimmy
(Post 331548)
Just installed LED tail lights, now I don't have cruise control. Checked fuses and circuits, all good. How can I retain these lights and get my cruise control back?
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the only sure way to determine if the lights are the culprit is to remove the LED tail and reinstall the stock lights and see if the cruise control works. If so then add some in line resistors. Make sure to buy high quality ones though so you don't burn your rig to the ground.
These don't use CAN BUS so generally the computer couldn't care if you have LED's or not. I have LED tails, lower bumper lights, everything up front, literally every bulb in my rig is LED and I've never had any issues. |
I had problems with my cruise control for a while, and all of a sudden the radio and heater controller would just die on me, no power nothing. Then the next day everything would work again. The dealer put it down to a faulty roll over sensor. Apparently it was the only sensor on the network that was showing a fault. It's not happened for a long while now though, and i've got a new sensor, so will be having that installed soon. Probably unrelated to your lights, but my cruise control would stop working, or the light would just come on but wouldn't operate etc etc... (mines 08-09 model).
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Originally Posted by mcioci
(Post 331555)
Your cruise doesn't work or the cruise light on dash isn't lighting up?
No light, no cruise. All circuits for cruise, switch, and fuse are good. |
Definitely the LED's. Put the old lights back in and the cruise is working again. :(
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Definitely is the LEDS, reason is the light circuit is directly monitored by the cruise control (CC) system, the moment the stop/brake light turns ON it pulls the lamp and the CC sense line up to 12V. When the lamp is OFF i.e. not braking the resistance of the lamp pulls the CC sense line back to 0V (ground) The problem with LEDs is that at low voltages they are effectively an open circuit so the CC sense line "floats" back-up to 12V hence the system interprets this as braking and cancels the cruise control.
You're going to ask what resistor value? I'd say the higher ohms the better as power dissipated is Vē/R which is 144/R, so 144R (Ohms) equates to 1Watt which is a lot. A 620R 1/4 Watt resistor would be good if you can get away with it, I suspect though from other comments its going to have to be a lot lower may be 200R 1 Watt, 100R 2 Watt or even 56R 3Watt but watch the heat! Think the original lamp/bulb is 27W x 2 and so the CC system has to be able to cope with just one lamp working (bet if both were out the CC would stop working again) 27W is effectively a 5R resistor but the bulb measures less than 1R when cold! Also I think you'll only need one resistor in the circuit, my electronic guess is that either a 33R 5Watt or 100R 1.5Watt will work. Let the forum know what works! |
Originally Posted by oceanbrave
(Post 331646)
Definitely is the LEDS, reason is the light circuit is directly monitored by the cruise control (CC) system, the moment the stop/brake light turns ON it pulls the lamp and the CC sense line up to 12V. When the lamp is OFF i.e. not braking the resistance of the lamp pulls the CC sense line back to 0V (ground) The problem with LEDs is that at low voltages they are effectively an open circuit so the CC sense line "floats" back-up to 12V hence the system interprets this as braking and cancels the cruise control.
You're going to ask what resistor value? I'd say the higher ohms the better as power dissipated is Vē/R which is 144/R, so 144R (Ohms) equates to 1Watt which is a lot. A 620R 1/4 Watt resistor would be good if you can get away with it, I suspect though from other comments its going to have to be a lot lower may be 200R 1 Watt, 100R 2 Watt or even 56R 3Watt but watch the heat! Think the original lamp/bulb is 27W x 2 and so the CC system has to be able to cope with just one lamp working (bet if both were out the CC would stop working again) 27W is effectively a 5R resistor but the bulb measures less than 1R when cold! Also I think you'll only need one resistor in the circuit, my electronic guess is that either a 33R 5Watt or 100R 1.5Watt will work. Let the forum know what works! Wrong. You forgot to divide by pie....lol |
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